The doors to the Shinkansen open at 5.29pm, time to get on and really begin my holiday. As the train has been in the station for a few minutes I had already worked out what end to be entering for my seat - meant I didn't have to walk the length of the carriage, which to be fair isn't huge! Nearly sake time.
We depart Tokyo Station dead on time - really no surprises there. Got to love the efficiency of this country. For now I have a spare seat next to me. Within seconds of leaving the setting sun blasts me, time to sit back, relax and watch the world go by.
There are a few stops before we really get going. The last one is close to Mt Fuji and with it being a clear day, and it's still light I see it. Wow!
We pull into Nagoya dead on time at 7.17pm; my next train isn't to 7.43pm so I take my time exiting the train and finding the next platform I need to be on. There isn't as much English here as there is at Tokyo station; an oldish man decides he wants to help me. While that is all well and good I don't speak Japanese (other than the odd word) so have absolutely no idea what he is saying to me. In the end I join a line to board the train (which isn't here yet). Thinking I'm not in the right place as I have a reserved seat but let's see.
The second (and final) train takes me from Nagoya to Takayama. My reserved seat ticket tells me it takes two and a half hours....not the best planning Sarah as all I have is water. The Hida 19 train arrive 5 minutes before the departure time; we all pile in and take our seats. Fingers crossed I have the seat next to me free again. Again we depart dead on time - this time though I'm sitting backwards, buggar! Especially when it's reserved seating. I'm going to try to be like a local and sleep / nap. I notice others moving their seat around so they are facing forward. I go to do the same but the lady behind tells me no. I manage to get from her that we go backwards for one stop then its forward. Right I'll stay as is.
Just when I'm starting to feel sick we make our second stop then bobs your uncle we see going forward - ye ha! And Arigatō to the lady behind me!
Half way through the journey I get over the constant reeve revee reeving then slow down. I'll be glad to get off! Thank goodness I'll going back to Tokyo a different route, not sure I could manage this again.
We pull into Takayama right on time at 10.15pm - now the fun begins of finding my hotel. Before leaving work I'd printed a map out, very handy except the fact it's in Japanese. Now we all know how good I am at reading maps....but with the hotel being a step, hop and a jump from the train station surely this can't be too hard! Off I head in the direction I believe I should be going, I don't see a main road so back track - off to a good start. There are no large buildings here so I don't have the luxury of looking up to see the hotel name. I arrive at the first intersection and decide to ask a couple for help - this is where the Japanese map comes in handy! Literally 30 seconds later I'm at the hotel.
While the hotel is clean and neat it's nowhere near the amazing place I stayed for the past 3 nights (in Tokyo). Time to sleep before exploring tomorrow.
Thursday (3 September) I manage a little sleep, a nice change from the early morning starts during the last few days. After breakfast it's time to go exploring Takayama.
On leaving the hotel the first thing I notice is how quiet it is here, such a change from Tokyo. Thinking though I could probably manage two days of this before missing the "action" and wanting to be back in a big city again.
Hida Kokubunji Temple, which is close to the hotel was built one or two years ago….back in 746 AD to be exact; it was built to pray for the nation’s peace and prosperity.
The sun is trying to appear, a nice change from rainy Tokyo; I make a quick stop back at the hotel to collect my sun glasses before heading off to the Jinya Mae Morning Market. This is a small market in front of Takayama Jinya selling local products - mainly food with a few local souvenirs. The fresh peaches and apples are HUGE with a price tag that manages. One label said JPY 500 which is just over USD 4. Melon's five times that cost. You would hope that the fruit would be absolutely delicious!
Takayama Jinya was originally built in 1615 as the administrative centre for one of the clan’s; up until 1969 the buildings were used as local government offices. As well as the offices there is a rice granary, garden and torture chamber to see. I’ll pass on the torture chamber thanks very much! I enjoy wondering around and for the majority of the time am able to read about the history. In one room there was a whole pile of straw rice sacks – back in the day they were used for tax collection, one sack contains about 60 kg of unpolished rice. The sacks were called "Tenryodawa" or "Kikudawara" meaning tax for the shogun.
From here I head to Miya-gawa Morning Market, this is much larger than the Jinya Mae Morning Market; selling everything from produce to flowers to crafts of wood or fabrics. Added in the mix were stalls selling ready to eat and drinks (both non-alcoholic and alcoholic).
I enjoy just wandering around the streets, still amazed at how quiet it is compared with Tokyo. Yes I appreciate the city size is hugely different it’s just such a big contrast from Tokyo.
I was having a hard time working out where to go for lunch, places that I thought were restaurants were not. Some that were restaurants/cafes were already closed. Hmm this is where it comes in handy to speak the language. I decide to head back to a Sake brewery which I had walked by before and noticed that they serve lunch.
After adding my name to the list I join the locals and sit and wait to I’m called. Thankfully it’s not too much of a wait, then I’m off upstairs. Shoes off then I sit at the table in what I would call a private room, there are 3 other tables (one has 6 guests, the other two have 2 guests each). It would be great to hire the whole room for a private party. Right back to the moment. I decide on a sake (no surprises there!) and Hida Beef BBQ set.
The food was delicious, I could sit here for the rest of the day but alas no it’s time to move on.
On exiting I notice the number of people around has decreased, makes wandering around even more pleasant.
Just as it’s starting to spit with rain I head back to the hotel, a good time to be indoors. I had expected it to rain much earlier so I'm pleased it’s held off for so long.
I decide to be brave and try the "spa" at the hotel - don't think English spas, this is like your own individual spa bath with a few other changes to an English spa. An interesting experience and one I was pleased I had to myself.
I had asked the hotel to make me a reservation for dinner at a place I found on trip advisor - 10 minutes before 7pm I leave the hotel; aah the joy of being in a small place!
On locating the restaurant (Heianraku) there is a sign outside advising they are full tonight. So glad "I" booked! I enter through the first sliding door to what I would say lobby, I assumed I would need to take off my shoes but alas no. Another sliding door and I'm inside. It's a small restaurant, with 9 seats at the counter and 2 tables (sitting on the floor). Given I'm a one person reservation I have a choice of the counter or a table - counter it is! The Japanese owners are extremely hospitable; the man is the chef with the lady (who speaks very good English) the front of house.
My first decision is what Sake to have - I decide on today's sake and am brought 3 large bottles to have a taste of each one. The Japanese definitely understand the art of service! I’m given a taste of all 3, this is the life. Once I finally decide on what I want to eat I'm brought out a house appetizer - grilled zucchini and a little potato with type of miso sauce on the side. Dinner is gyoza's and a vegetable dish served with rice and soup. All delicious! It ends with two pieces of watermelon.
Friday (4 September) morning it's another early start, I'm heading to Shirakawa-go for the day. For the first time since being in Japan I open the curtains to blue sky - ye ha let’s hope it remains like this!
On arrival back into Takayama the sun is shining and it's actually warm - a lovely change. I head straight to the old town for lunch, going to a place I'd been recommended (Le Midi). French with a Japanese twist or perhaps it's Japanese with a French twist. Either way it doesn't disappoint!
After lunch I wander the streets in the old town, such a different feel when it's not trying to rain. Today there seems less people which is an added bonus!
Ange and Aaron had recommended a sake tasting place to me, based on my previous sessions of drinking sake I decide I couldn't start before 3pm.....I need to be able to function in a few hours! For JPY 150 (about USD 1.25 / NZD 1.95) I was free to drink as much as I liked from 13 different sakes. And on top of that I get to keep the sake glass. Shame I'm here alone as it would be great to do with other people!
What I have discovered is while I like my chardonnay's dry I'm not a fan of the dry sake. Time to try other kinds :)
Just after 4pm I start to have some "friends"; I keep thinking only one more....but you know it's a very small glass....so I keep going. This is fun! Thankfully I have water on hand.
I get speaking to Nelson who is here for the sake drinking as well, and before we know it we are being shown a note that tells us they close at 6pm. It's now 5.55pm so we immediately jump up to get “just one more sake”. I've been here since 3pm, but who's paying attention!
We head off in search of a bar, now in most places these are easy to find. No not here in Takayama. Nelson notices an Asahi sign outside a small entrance way so off we go. On entering I'm amazed how tiny it is!! To the right, raised up a step is the "living room" with a coffee table and TV. To the left is the bar, with counter seats. We are the only customers so the owner (we think) has to move from her living room to the bar to serve us. She looks about 90 with layers and layers of make-up. Please DO NOT let me wear make-up like that when I'm that old. We order an Asahi and within minutes are served that with a bowl of some kind of pickles. An interesting taste that isn't really me but it's needed after the sake. Food and a bathroom is needed so after paying the bill (which is crazy expensive (about USD 14), for what it is) we head outside with the old lady trying to tell us where to go for food. A sweet thought but difficult when we don't speak the same language.
We walk down the street, looking for a place that does Hida beef. Sake ordered, dinner ordered - we are set! Fast forward a couple of hours and we are being told they are closing and we need to leave. Bloody hell. And it's only 9pm. We wandered around trying to find an ATM and another place to have a drink, no luck with either. Probably better in the long run as I need to go back to my hotel to pack as I have a crazy early train tomorrow morning. Every time a coconut I leave packing to the very last minute (and go out drinking!) when I have a super early start the next day…..I’ll never learn! Great to have a night out with someone other than myself.
Saturday (5 September) morning I'm awake far too early - totally blaming the sake! I've had a great time in Takayama but the time has come for me to move on - Kanazawa here I come!
