My next gate is two away from where I landed but instead of going straight there I go in hunt of an ATM. I had tried a number in Tokyo today and had no success (for some reason it wouldn’t accept my card). I'm told it's outside the terminal and I don't have time to go there and back. Ooh dear I hope there is one in Ishigaki! The one positive of going looking is I did get to see the sunset.
The two small food places are close to being without food so I go with the only option I can tell immediately what it is - tuna sandwich - then head to the gate. Day is turning into night.
It's finally our turn to board, the plane is definitely a lot bigger than I had expected. The short one hour flight goes quickly without any issues.
Ange is at the airport to meet me - so nice! Always lovely to see old friends!! It's a 20 minute or so drive to the hotel - given the speed limit is 40km/h it would have been a tad quicker if it was "normal" speed. It's like I'm back in Bhutan.
We meet up with Aaron and a sleeping Seb, after dropping my bag in the room we head across the road from the hotel to a local restaurant for dinner. They had been earlier in the week so are greeted like old friends.
Ange does all our ordering.....so great!! We start with the local beer (actually very good) then have a variety of food that comes out. Beer turns into sake.
Saturday, 23 April we have a chilled start to the day - my favourite! Then head down to the restaurant for breakfast. As we are moving hotels today it’s time to pack up, nice and easy for me. Not so easy for Ange given they have been here for 6 days already.
We drive into the town area of Ishigaki to the Port – our driver, navigator and translator goes and asks when the next boat is…..whoops wrong port (unless we want to go completely off piste, yeah no thanks not today). The correct ferry port is a quick 5 minute drive away. We manage to get the last park in the parking area, great score.
There are 3 different ferry companies that operate the Ishigaki to Takatomi route; surprising to me given it’s only a 15 minute ride and around 350 people live on Takatomi Island.
Takatomi Island covers 5.42 square kilometres, running 2.7 km’s east to west and 3.4 km’s north to south so not exactly a big island. It’s known for the traditional Okinawan houses, stone walls and sandy streets. We had seen photos earlier of exactly these and the beaches so had come prepared with our togs. The heat was definitely here for the swim.
Ange had arranged an ox-cart ride through the village so on arrival at the Takatomi port we were promptly collected by mini bus and taken, along with others, to the village. We are definitely worlds about from the huge and crazy busy Tokyo!!!
Within minutes of arrival our names were called, thank goodness for Ange!!, and we are getting on the cart for our ox tour. They seem more like water buffalos to me but hey ho. An interesting way to get around especially as the ox / water buffalo stops and starts as he sees fit. The guide / ox minder informs us that some tours are very quick with others taking over an hour.
Back onto the sandy street we set off, man alive it’s hot, wandering around the village. It’s so lovely that there is next to no other people around. We just wander around with no fixed destination. Ange and I locate the beach, after walking through a small forest area. With the tide out it’s not as nice as we expected so it’s back to Aaron and Seb we head.
We have a late lunch in a small restaurant – having Ange as the translator is amazing!! I’m sure this doesn’t really feel like a holiday for her but on the plus side she gets to be practising her Japanese.
We wander back to the ox / water buffalo area to take the bus back to the ferry pier. It’s been a nice few hours on Takatomi Island.
On arrival back into Ishigaki we wander around the town area, popping into a few stores mainly to get some a/c! It’s a quiet little town right now but with lots of bars and restaurants around I know that will change in a few hours. We are about to head back to the car when we spy a cool looking building so decide to head over to check it out.
Ishigakijima Village is a 3 storey building with lots of different bars and restaurants. Reminds us a lot of piss alley in Tokyo. This is definitely right up our alley! We head up to the second floor and choose a fish cake place; for no real reason. Our seats are upside down sake crates with a pillow attached at the top. We settle in, order large beers and enjoy the locals chitter chatting next door. A great way to spend an hour or two.
Back to the hotel we go to collect our bags; poor wee Seb has a power chuck (thankfully Ange had him outside of the car) while we are waiting for concierge to bring them out. Within seconds they are on hand for the clean-up mission. Thanks very much!!
On arrival at Le Lotus Bleu it's clear we are in Japan (up to now it hasn't really felt like it) as it’s a traditional Japanese house. The couple that own / manage the property greet us and after unpacking the car give us a tour of the house. They moved here 5 years ago from the main land (their words!) and spent time doing up the house before opening it up as a hotel / B&B. The house itself was moved from Takayama, which we have all been too, about 35 years ago. That would have been a huge undertaking!!
Once we had Seb sorted we headed out for dinner; the owner had recommended a place close by so we decided to go by foot which means Ange can drink.
The first thing that struck me when we went outside was the amount of stars in the sky - it's like being back in New Zealand. The next was how warm and humid it still was; thank goodness we have a/c in our room. We walked around the corner and the brightness of the moon hit us - wow wow wow!
We finally locate the restaurant and within seconds of walking in the owner / worker does the cross sign at us - nooooo! Ange proceeds to speak with her but it's still a no.....buggar! They have closed for the night, ooh and by the way the convenience store is also closed. Right oh back to our ryokan we head.
Ange and I get the car keys and go off in search of something. A few km's down the road we spot a coco, a convenience store - bingo we are in! And clearly by the amount of cars around we aren't the only ones with this idea. Beer, sake, rice crackers, sushi type rolls and baby wipes purchased so back we head.
After putting Seb to bed we sit around the low table with our beer and sake. I had one mouthful of the sake and nearly spit it back out again – GROSS!!! On further inspection Ange realises it’s not sake…..thankfully google translate comes to our rescue and advises this poison is best served either with ice or water. Water it is! Does make it slightly more drinkable. Definitely not our best purchase ever!
It's 10.46pm and we're still sitting around the table, I feel an earthquake. Scary! For the next 5 or so minutes we have a few more - some thankfully are over much quicker than others.
Sunday, 24 April we wake just after 7am. I didn't feel any earthquakes in the night! Sleeping on the futon actually was quite nice.
Breakfasts aren’t served in the ryokan on a Sunday but the owners had told us about the Sunday Market, as well as provided us with a local map of things to see/do and eat. We head out to the Sunday Market, so nice to be out and about with blue sky and warmth! They are still setting up and don’t officially open for another 25 minutes so we head down to the beach promenade and walk along to we come to one of the local cafes. The beach really isn’t a beach and with the tide out doesn’t encourage us to go down to explore.
We manage to get the last table for breakfast, which is outside, and enjoy a typical Japanese breakfast.
Ange was informed today there will be tsunami practice and at 10am (in 8 minutes) we will start to hear the sirens but please don't be alarmed. Thank goodness we were told otherwise it would be have been a fright and wondering what on earth is going on. There are a few other tourists inside so Ange is asked if she will inform them. The Japanese are definitely caring.
10am comes and goes and there is no noise. As we are walking back to the Sunday Market we hear announcements through loud speakers – this must be their tsunami practice. Very different to what we would have thoughts.
The Sunday Market is in full swing when we arrive back; Seb is like a celebrity!! So it takes as awhile to get around.
We head back to the ryokan to collect the car keys and beach bags then we’ll off. First stop is the chemist as Seb is a little sick. Right next door is the local supermarket which has a bakery attached/in it so we head there to get the medicine into him. Ange and Aaron had visited a few times during the week so knew they did amazing custard donuts. Yes thanks we’ll do that again.
I always love visiting supermarkets, and especially big ones. This was no exception – so many things to look out.
Back into the car we head and drove north to Kabira Bay. The closer we get the more the clouds darkened. No this is supposed to be out swimming in the sea day. The village is little with a couple of “main” streets. After driving around we head down to the beach, Seb was sleeping so Ange and I leave Aaron with the car and walk along the beach. This is where you can come to get in glass bottomed boats to see the coral and fishes. There is next to no-one else here which is lovely, until we start to feel the odd rain drop then within seconds there were so many more so it’s a turn around and break into a run moment! Thankfully we hadn’t got that far! That ends our little trip to Kabira Bay and definitely no swimming!!
It’s definitely time to get out of here! We decide to drive back a different route; thankfully the rain eases off enough for us to stop off at a photo stop off place.
We looked at a few different places for lunch but nothing jumped out so decide to keep driving. Easy when you are a passenger just to sit back and enjoy the sights J Ange had read about an art museum so we stop in there. Just as we are about to leave the heavens well and truly open with thunder and lightning added in for good measure. Guess we won’t be leaving here anytime soon! Man it’s ugly out there and having the thunder and lightning noises doesn’t make it any nicer. Finally we decide we just have to make a run for it; the lovely owners give us their umbrella which is just so nice of them. Two trips for Ange then we are all finally in the car……rather wet! But hey ho it’s only rain and we will dry.
Aaron has the fun task of changing Seb’s nappy in the car….not an easy task given his car seat is also there. The heater is turned on then it’s back onto the road we go. It’s still absolutely pouring, with streams of water running down the hills onto the road. Makes for very dangerous driving.
On arrival back into Ishigaki we head back to Ishigakijima Village where we were yesterday. Aaron, Seb and I get door to door service given it’s still raining. Ange has the awful task of parking and walking back into the rain; so nice we have the umbrella from the art museum.
We have beers on the ground floor then head upstairs back to the fish cake place where we were yesterday for more beers and food.
Thankfully the rain has stopped when we arrive back at the ryokan; after getting Seb sorted we sit drinking our sake (we had brought proper sake yesterday!) and chatting. A lovely end to our day!
Monday, 25 April is another early rise but it's a chilled start which is nice!
We head downstairs for breakfast in the ryokan which is super tasty! It's so relaxing with the doors and windows open, the breeze flowing in and the sound of water outside. What a shame I’m leaving in a few hours to head back to Tokyo then straight onto Hong Kong.
Ange and I leave for the airport at 10.15am, its spitting - fingers crossed this doesn't move into the crazy heavy rain we had yesterday!
My time in Ishigaki has come to an end, it's been a wonderful weekend being with Ange, Arron and Seb! Somewhere else in Japan that I'd love to return to.....but not when it’s raining! Back to Hong Kong I head.
