Susan on the other hand isn’t so lucky - I manage to get the driver to understand he needs to pull over and pull over right now. Poor Susan; and especially as I get a fit of giggles.
Even though we are at the airport it’s more driving before we get to the terminal. We need to get out of this car and fast.
Check-in is easy - especially as we were in the military line.....the only reason we could think why is because the agent speaks English.
We join a very very long security line. I’d noticed a VIP, business and first class line - after a few minutes standing in this line I decide to try it with my APEC card. Bingo we are in! Goodbye long line, hello straight through. Result.
We are departing from the furthest away gate; after dumping our stuff I head off to get some dinner. For an airport it’s a pretty good selection.
We are 17 minutes late leaving Shanghai, not too bad me thinks given it’s a Friday night.
It’s a relatively easy flight north - having moved seats I get a clear view of the amazing moon, basically a full moon.
Just before we start out descent into Harbin we are told its -25 degrees. Wholly smoke!! Well that’s going to be a massive shock to the system!! And especially given the heat is on currently and I’m sitting here in a tee shirt. Hard to imagine how cold that will be, especially as I’ve never experienced it before.
The descent seems to go on and on and on and on. What I hope is at the 10 minutes to go mark, my neighbour decides it’s time to get dressed for the -25 degrees. Clothes off, clothes on, clothes off, clothes on. Seriously dude this is a plane not a private dressing room!
We finally land! Although we are early (by about 15 minutes). Honestly the longest descent in history. Right body - get prepared for this -25 shenanigans.
On exiting the plane I realize it’s onto a bus we go. The first thing I notice is how thick the air is, like breathing in smoke. Thankfully I’m nice and toasty on my top half, just a portion of my legs that are cold. Tomorrow I’ll be in ski pants plus thermals so should be good to go! Our winter adventure begins!!
It’s a bit of a scramble to get Susan’s bag but we get there in the end.
Joe is waiting for us with a sign, talk about easy! Now to really experience the cold - he tells us it’s a 2 minute walk to his car. Feels much longer but not surprising when it’s -25 degrees!!
The journey takes about 35 minutes, along the way Joe gives us some history as well as tips for tomorrow. We had tried to have him as our guide but he was booked already. His guest unfortunately cancelled on him two days ago. What a shame!
Joe informs us Harbin is having its coldest weather in 50 years; typical when we are here!
It’s a big of a struggle at check-in at the hotel but we make it in the end. I finally get into bed at 1.30am.
My alarm goes off at 7.30am - NOOOOOO - on Saturday 3, February. MORE SLEEP IS NEEDED!
We head to breakfast where I feel like I’m forcing myself to eat. We were running a little late but it didn’t seem to bother our guide (Amy) who informed us she tried to call us last night to arrange to meet at 10am. Buggar. Ooh well we are up now so let’s get going.
As soon as we get into the car we are asked if we want to see people swimming on the lake – what in this temperature???! – yes please. But boy oh boy how / why would anyone swim in the lake when it’s SO cold. Walking on the lake is quite freaky, I understand it’s thick thick ice but part of me is a tad worried we could end up in the cold water.
On arrival we see them getting the ‘pool’ ready, it’s a ‘swimming pool’ dug out of the frozen lake. Thanks but no thanks I’m happy watching from the side lines.
Right next door is an “ice skating rink” which Amy directs us too; no skates here rather chairs with skates on and poles to get yourself around. There are also bike skates. We have lots of laughs trying to get around!
The crowd increases around the pool so we head over there to wait for the show. First up is a lady in a pink bikini with a hula hoop. After a while she goes inside and out comes 4 guys, who are in togs too but also have a fancy dress item on them. They “fight” and one by one end up in the pool. Shortly after a group of men and women come out (again all in togs) and jump into the pool, some via the diving board.
Jules, who I had borrowed some clothes from, had told me one of the best things she saw when she was in Harbin was the Sun Island Festival – the snow sculpture festival.
We were informed over 10,000 people build the snow and ice sculptures each year, which need to be completed prior to Christmas. Typically it’s a 2 week process, with people working both day and night shifts. This season they were completed in 12 days.
After getting off a small bus, actually more like a large van, we wander around the sculptures. They are made from compacted snow to ensure they preserve their form. Wow they are amazing. The intricate details blow me away.
Amy suggested Susan and I go tobogganing; yes please! We are given a tube each then walk up the hill to join the line. It’s not super steep but boy we moved. A lot of fun!
We continue to wander around the park area looking at all the different sculptures. WOW just WOW.
Joe had informed us last night we should visit the Harbin Opera House as it’s a beautiful building, so off we head. Nice to be inside the warm car again.
Next on our worldwide tour of Harbin is the Siberia Tiger Park which occupies an area of 355.8 acres. We are told it is the largest natural park for wild Siberian tigers in the world at present. I’m super excited to be able to see them up close and personal while in their natural habitat (or as close as possible).
Amy purchases our tickets for us then starts a line to join the bus. Within minutes it’s time for Susan and I to join her and head out to bus. We are first in line so have the choice of seats (which have all been rejigged to face outwards). Within minutes we are off and driven around the park. WOW they are amazing creatures!!
Another recommendation from Joe had been to go to Wander Mall for lunch, rather than being ripped off at a seafood restaurant (unlikely this would have happened anyway as Susan doesn’t eat fish).
On entering the mall the warmth hits me, aah this is lovely! Joe had told us last night there are lots of food options on the third floor so we head there. The first place we come to is Western and Amy assumes we want that. No thanks, Chinese. We decide on a dumpling place - Amy and Susan order while I go in search of a bathroom.
Lunch is super tasty!
I’m starting to get tired - warmth, sitting down and food will do that. Time to head outside again and to the ice festival.
Entering the Ice Festival wasn't easy. For some reason Amy couldn’t get in with her guide's pass but we don’t notice this until we are through and standing outside waiting for her. Finally we locate her (after a few trips back and forth), apparently she gets in with a group of 8 or more but not 2 which is what we are. She tries to enter with other tour groups but it doesn’t work out so we are on our own.
I’d been told to arrive around 3.30pm to the enjoy sculptures in the day light as the sun sets around 4.30pm. Then you are able to see the lights get turned on followed by exploring in the dark.
With all the shenanigans with Amy it was well after 4pm when Susan and I head off. The sun is setting so we find the closest ice sculpture that you can climb up. We literally have a few minutes after we get to the top before the lights start to go on. Wow this place is amazing!
At one place we stop to take photos we end up having a photo with a local - with lots of cameras out I quickly realize we will end up in lots of photos.
We have close to 2 hours wandering around - it’s not huge but there are so many different sculptures to look at. We had decided not to go inside any of the restaurants so parts of my body are starting to get very cold. As we wander to the exit gate we pass a reindeer sleigh being pulled by a guy in a santa suit. Brilliant!
Ooh it’s nice to be back in the warmth of the car. My legs are starting to get there feeling back
The last stop on our tour is Centre Street, a pedestrian only cobblestone street which is lined with restaurants and shops. With it being dark there are fairy lights all through the trees. First stop is an ice-cream, yes I appreciate it’s very very odd to eat ice-cream when it’s sooooo bloody cold but so many people told us it’s a must when you are here so we join the line and choose what flavours we want. Super tasty.
As we wander along to the river I notice some of the buildings have amazing architecture, would be great to see it in the daylight. We continue and come across a few ice sculptures. A nice end to our day.
We are dropped back at the hotel around 7.30pm; a hot shower is calling! We check out the ice igloo attached to the hotel then head straight to the room.
With the alarm set for 5am (yes bloody early!) we pack up then it’s an early night.
Sunday 4 February I’m woken by my alarm at 5am - definitely far too early to get up. Thank goodness for a relatively early night last night. And tonight will be exactly the same! Fingers crossed for sleep on one, if not both flights.
We had paid the bill last night so hand over the keys when we pass reception. Joe is outside waiting for us; jacket done up. Hoodie on. Out I go. Yes -29 degrees it is FREEZING!!!
It’s an easy 40 minute drive to the airport. I’m amazed at the number of street cleaners out this early and in this temperature. I thought the roads looked quite clean, clearly not.
Boarding starts at 7am which is right on time; nice and efficient unlike our flight here. Walking down the gangplank watching the sun rise is a lovely end to our time in Harbin. Time to return to a warmer climate.
Wow talk about super-efficient - we pull out from the gate 20 minutes early. This is promising.
Hmm that’s until we drive for a bit then stop. An announcement is made on why but I don’t really understand why. Perhaps defrosting?
The 3 ladies sitting in front of me are doing their best to take a selfie and include me in the photo. Yeah I don’t think so!
We land into Shanghai 35 minutes early; within minutes of landing a couple of passengers around me stand up. Ummm I don’t think so - we are still moving.
We drive for a few more minutes then stop again – people now are up and getting their bags out of the overhead; no still not time. I feel so sorry for the air Stewart’s who have to deal with this on a daily basis.
It’s relatively easy getting Susan’s bag then heading over to the international terminal. The staff we spoke with at the Cathay desk were super helpful and managed to get us on an earlier flight; as the flight wasn’t closed for another 15 minutes he sent us away for a walk. We pick up something at Pacific Coffee then head back – bingo we are on the 12.30pm flight to Hong Kong.
With a spring in our step we are off to immigration then back to Hong Kong.
Hmmm that’s until we go around the corner and see the MASSIVE lines at immigration. Wholly smoke this is going to be interesting; less than 1 hour until we depart. I tried to take Susan through the APEC line but the immigration officer was having none of it. BUGGAR!! We join the long line which seems to be moving super slowly. In the end we decide I’ll go through the APEC line, head to the lounge and get us food for the plane.
Susan and I meet again at the gate, which already has lines of people to get on the plane. Thankfully our line is nice and short – she walks left and I walk right….basically to the back on the plane.
Shanghai / Harbin you have been awesome!!!
