Doors of Orvieto, Italy - 15-18 June 2018

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Orvieto, Italy – 15-18 June 2018

We land into Rome international airport 7 minutes earlier than scheduled on Friday 15 June. Great considering we were 10 minutes late leaving Dubrovnik. Now let’s ensure I make my trains with no issues.

We arrive at the gate - a gate, no bus!!! - 4 minutes passed our scheduled arrival time. Luck is on my side so far.

Well that was false advertising - we walk out of the plane then down some stairs and you guessed it onto a bus. How frustrating!

On arrival at the terminal there is passport control - I leave Susan and join the long line for non EU citizens. Let’s hope it’s not longer than 30 minutes, I may still make my train.

Hmm the other line seems to be moving and mine isn’t - decisions decisions on whether I stay put or move.

Ooh dear really seems like I’ve got in the wrong line. Buggar!  My phone helps pass the time.

Been in the line now for 24 minutes, getting closer to the front. Now I see why this side is moving so slowly - only 3 counters are open. Bloody annoying. 40 minutes to my train departs. Let’s hope my bag is waiting for me when I finally get out of here.  Then I’ll be the mad person running through the airport to the train shortly.

Finally it’s my turn. 30 minutes later I’m allowed back in Italia.

It’s a super-fast walk to baggage carousel 11. As I get close I notice Susan is waiting by the exit with our bags. Heaven!! We walk out to numerous signs - on spying Susan’s name we say goodbye and I pick up the pace to the train station. Thankfully arriving with 20 minutes to spare. Train ticket needs to be purchased followed quickly by food and water. I can now breathe.

Finally I get my train tickets sorted - the man had me having 40 minutes at the train station in Roma central. No thanks, I’m going to get on the train 7 minutes after we arrive.

Now for some food!

We depart Roma Airport on time at 2.23pm. All going well we’ll arrive at 2.55pm and I’ll be departing again at 3.02pm. Yes it will be tight. I’m sitting at the front of the train so that I can jump off and RUN RUN RUN. For now I’ll sit back and relax.

Half way through the journey I decide to reduce the amount of hand luggage I’m carrying - with a suitcase of 14.6kgs I have lots of room! 

When the ticket officer comes by she’s kind enough to tell me what platform we’ll come in at (22 or 24). I decide to ask her if she knows what platform my next train goes from - she’s super helpful and looks it up. Of course it’s at the other end of the station. So I will be basically running through the station. Serves me right for not running this morning!!

5 minutes prior to our scheduled arrival time we stop - N O. This is not how it’s meant to be. My train is at last announced. Come on let’s go.

We arrive 3 minutes late - this will be interesting!

As I arrive to the platform the train pulls out. Buggar!! After I catch my breath I slowly walk back to the main terminal. Buggar buggar buggar. Thankfully I know the next train to Orvieto is in 38 minutes. And of course it means a new ticket as it’s a quicker train. Now I’m kicking myself I didn’t stick with the original ticket the man sold me at the airport.  The line to “exchange” my ticket is out of control long. I’ll deal with that another day. For now I buy another ticket and make my way to the platform. There is NO way I’m missing this train.  A very strong drink will be needed once I arrive.....well after I’ve been to a laundromat.

The 3.40pm 592 train departs Roma Termini on time. While I usually love things being on time today could have been a day where my earlier train was slightly delayed. This train has me arriving into Orvieto 18 minutes later than the train I thought I would get so in hind sight it’s not too much difference.

On arrival into Orvieto I ask the lady at the train station about getting a refund for my ticket. No. How about if I exchange it. No. Hey Ho, it’s only money.

I go to take the funicular down to Orvieto town but it’s closed. The lady sitting outside informs me in Italian it’s not working at the moment and I can take the bus, which is right here. Ok here I go. I’m getting on a bus that I have absolutely no idea where it’s going. Very unlike me.  Thankfully after driving uphill for a few minutes I see the sign welcoming people to Orvieto. Yes I’m in the right direction. Next issue will be where to get off.  That is taken off me as there is just one stop.

I know there is a bus to Piazza Duomo but I decide to walk. Well that’s until I come to the next bus stop, look at the timetable and notice the bus was due 2 minutes ago.  As I haven’t seen one go by I decide to wait and bingo within a two minutes it arrives. Again no idea where this goes other than up. Again the “where shall I get off” is taken off me as it’s just one stop. Right at the Duomo which is WOW WOW WOW!

I have one false start on finding the hotel then I spy it - excellent off I go.

The view from my window is amazing!!!

As much as I'd like to stand here all day staring at the amazing Duomo I need to leave.  I'm off with my laundry to the laundromat.  Once that's all sorted I decided an aperol spritz is required while I wait.

Now that my freshly cleaned washing is hanging up in my room (hoping that it will all dry overnight) I head out to wander the streets.

 

I’d done some research on restaurants before coming - as I get hungry I go off in search of one, only to discover it doesn’t open for another 30 minutes. Ok back to wandering in the direction of another one I found.

On my wandering I’d come across lots of enoteca’s and shops selling wine so on deciding on the table for dinner I ask to try a small amount of the white wine. While it’s not fancy pants it’s perfectly fine for a Friday night dinner in Orvieto.

Dinner is delicious. Who would know ravioli with butter and sage would taste so good??!!

 

I’d read on an Orvieto food website that Orvieto is definitely a place for foodies. With one of the most important elements in the Orvieto tradition being food and wine. I have definitely come to the right place! I will absolutely be running tomorrow before I spend the day eating!!

Saturday 16 June I wake at 7.30am. Once I feel more alive I head out for a run - first one in a week so I’m a little nervous!

There is next to no-one around which is lovely. I’d read a review on trip advisor from someone who said Orvieto is a place day trippers come but they leave around 3pm. Perfect!

 

I manage a 35 minutes run - hard work going up a couple of the hills.

When I leave the hotel again the number of people around has increased tenfold (but really not that many still). First stop is coffee.

 

I head back to the Duomo area to purchase tickets for the underground cave for later today. Hoping that there will be less people on the tour this way and it delays me sitting on a cobblestone street drinking aperol spritz.

Now time to wander the streets with no fixed destination - my type of wandering.

I come across a market that’s in full swing, a couple of hours ago when I ran through where people are just setting up.  There are many fruit and vegetable stalls along with clothing, sheets / towels, random kitchenware stalls and a couple of meat and cheese trucks.

 

 

 

I head back into Piazza della Repubblica and to Chiesa di Sant'Andrea, which is a 12^th century Church. The frescos are amazing.

 

I’d seen a sign on my run earlier to the medieval quarter so wandered off in that direction.  Often at times I was alone on the narrow cobblestone streets, so peaceful!

I continue wandering, coming to the edge of the old town, the views down were amazing!!

On entering Chiesa di San Giovenale I marvel at the amazing frescos on the walls. WOW! My trusty lonely planet informs me the frescos date back to the 12^th and 13^th century. The Church was built in 1004…a year or few ago.

I continue wandering the streets.  At random corners are were beggars asking for money.  Got annoying being asked every single time I walked by, by the same people.

 

I’m starting to get hungry. There are so many options but for whatever reason I struggle to select somewhere to go for lunch. After a quick bathroom stop at the hotel I ask the receptionist for recommendations. Right I’m off.

My next “hard task” is choosing what to eat.  Everything reads deliciously. The local meat and cheese platter wins.

 

A glass of vino would go nicely with my platter but if I drink now I’ll be asleep for the afternoon. Not sure how the people are doing that I saw having vino at 11am.

Back onto the streets I go. I wander towards the Fort area which I had run around this morning. People were sitting up stalls, which is sort of what they were doing 5 hours ago.

I decide a gelato is needed before I head back to the hotel for an hours escape from the heat and people. Hoping when I leave again at 4.30pm there will be less people around. 

As I enter the Duomo Di Orvieto I hear music - the ticket man informs the couple in front of me a band is practicing for tonight. What a lovely relaxing way to view a Duomo!! The second thing that strikes me is how big it is! Now I realize from the outside I can tell this as well but it seems super big / high ceilings when you are in inside.

The Duomo, built back in the 14^th century, houses two chapels both with amazing frescos.

The frescos on the walls are amazing. Some still pretty much intact from when they were produced many years ago.

 

 

I’m enjoying sitting here listening to the band practice while surrounded by the black and white columns and frescos behind the alter.

As I’m waiting for the underground tour to start a medieval procession goes by.  Hmm I wonder if it’s do with the Fort area setup.

Clearly everyone else has had the same idea as me - go on the last tour and there will be next to no-one. Not the case today.

Before we begin the guide advises there are over 1,200 caves in Orvieto. All but one (the one we will see) are private caves.

Yesterday on my wanderings I had seen the man from the train sitting at a bar having a drink. If the locals go there it must be good! So I head off there.

I still feel my Italiano is rusty so speak in a mix of Italiano and Inglese to order an aperol spritz then head outside to people watch. Like last night I’m brought a bowl of chips and peanuts then a couple of minutes later a mezzo plate with green olives, salami, bread sticks, a piece of crostini with a tomato based paste and two small focaccia sandwich with tomato and cheese. 

 

I get chatting to a lovely Walsh couple (Jackie and Steve) who arrived a couple of hours ago. Even though I’ve been here for just over 24 hours I feel like it’s been much longer. We swap tips.

As they are planning on going to the same place as me for dinner to head there together only to be told they are full until 9pm (in an hour and fifteen minutes). I definitely need to eat before then!

We then wandered down the Main Street to another recommendation which thankfully was empty.

We elect to sit outside and within minutes ask to try the house red vino. We are thankfully all on the same page that the red wine is a no thanks. Back to the drawing board!

I typically have pasta, risotto or pizza while in Italia but tonight decided to go off-piste and order the wild boar, which is a specialty of Umbria. It doesn’t disappoint!!

 

On wandering back to the hotel we hear live music so decide to go and check it out.

 

My last full day on holiday - Sunday 17 June - I wake early. After enjoying the views of Piazza Duomo with next to no one around I head out for a run.

50 minutes is more than enough when at least 35 minutes was uphill!! Wholly smoke.

Like yesterday morning my breakfast is a coffee and croissant. I elect to have a plain one today thinking it will be more like the ones in France. Sorry not today Dorothy.  I’ll need to visit France for that.

Sitting outside watching locals and tourists wander by is great! The locals definitely all greet each other, which to be fair those I saw on my run earlier did the same to me. I even saw one man twice and had a mini conversation with him. Why ooh why do I need to leave tomorrow??!

After some wandering I decide another coffee is needed. I’m like an Italiano and stand at the bar this time. Interestingly no one has offered me aqua (with my coffee) the whole time I’ve been here.

I manage to get myself onto another part of the walking trial - this time it’s down. Not sure why I didn’t find it this morning?! I’m on the other side of the old town than I was yesterday, the views down are just as impressive.

Hunger is starting to appear. I go off in search of a restaurant that I was recommended yesterday by the receptionist at the hotel. The menu doesn’t jump out at me. There’s a pizzeria right next door :) As I haven’t had pizza in Italia yet I decide that’s what I’ll have for lunch.

Right time to walk off the pizza!!

I decide to go and reserve a table for tonight at the place we tried to go last night.

Like previous wanderings I have no fixed destination - making a decision on direction when I need to.

There still seems to be so many people around so I decide to go and escape the “crowds” and return to the hotel where I start packing.

On leaving the hotel just before 4pm the number of people seems to have increased. Ooh dear!  I look in a few shops - even purchase a dress GO ME then continue wandering the streets. I’m sure I’ve been on more streets than some of the locals.

I decide to walk down to the funicular station to see how long it takes as I’m considering walking down there in the morning.  As I get close a blue car passes me and smiles - now typically this would be fine but this same car has done this at least three times already today. Starting to feel a tad concerned. He drives past then turns around and stops and tries again to speak with me. Ummm absolutely not! Time to brush up on my Italian swear words. I watch him then walkaway. Hopefully that’s the end of it! Weirdo.

After wandering slowly back up to the Duomo I stop en-route at the supermarket. Think I’m done with walking around and it’s too early to start drinking (5.30pm) otherwise I’ll turn up to my dinner reservation tipsy!

I drop off my purchases at the hotel - Aperol Spritz time!!

As I sit here watching the world go by I reflect on how lucky I am. I’m a New Zealander living and working in Hong Kong who has visited 58 counties and countless cities / towns / villages across the 58 countries.  Some think I have a trust fund - nope! I just choose to spend my hard earned dollars (often it feels like cents) on traveling the world to expose myself to new experiences. Where will be next??!! Right now, 17 June, I do not have any more trips planned - most unlike me but sometimes good.

As I walk towards last night’s bar I spot Jacqui and Steve doing the same - talk about timing!  Lovely to see familiar faces.

No prizes for guessing what I ordered! We chat over our drinks and catch up our days.

When I arrive at the restaurant, which has 6 tables only, there is one table already seated. And I thought I was punctual.  There are no staff around but it’s fairly obvious which table is for me - setting for one. Literally a minute later one of the waiters (perhaps an owner) arrives, and confirms “la Sarah’s” table is the one I had thought.

Choosing the vino is fun. I ask in broken Italiano to try two - a Chardonnay and an Orvieto Classico. Both are very good! The waiter then points out I can probably get Chardonnay where I live, yes this is true! So Orvieto Classico wins. Now onto the food. When I read the menu yesterday I felt like I could order the majority of the items. This is hard selecting just one!

My salad arrives first - nice to have something fresh. Pasta then arrives a few minutes later looking delicious! Wonder if it would be bad to order two of the same......

Jacqui and Steve arrive half an hour after me. I give them tips on the vino like I’ve been here numerous times before. I wish!

Aaah I realize I’ve had no limoncello since being in Italia - must have some tonight. Going to make that 6am wakeup call so much harder but needs must!

I’m sitting here finishing my vino enjoying life when the lady that took my reservation earlier came by to ask “tutti bene la Sarah?”. Si tutti bene grazie. How on earth do I stay here???!!

A couple of people arrive and walk through the room I’m in. Clearly there are more than 6 tables here as neither party returns.

The limoncello is molto buono!! After one sip I want to order another glass, but 6am wake up 6am wake up is on repeat in my heat.

I get chatting to the couple sitting on the other side of Steve and Jacqui when they leave - he’s Kiwi and she’s Australian. They are traveling in Europe for 5 weeks. So jealous!

As I’m walking back to the hotel I overhear an American couple say “it’s going to be hard to leave”. Yes yes it will be.

There is next to no-on around the Duomo which is a pleasant change. I enjoy the night view in basically peace.

My alarm wakes me at 6am on Monday 18 June - time to head for a run! I would much prefer to sleep more but as I’m going to be sitting on a plane for 12.5 hours thought it best to get some exercise in. 

I pretty much have the city to myself! Along my run I see no more than 20 people. A lovely way to end my trip. Thankfully I didn't see the werido from yesterdays run.

After packing up I walk down to the funicular station - again next to no one around.  It’s going to be another stunning blue sky sunny day.  I have less than 10 minutes wait then it’s a 3 minute journey down to the train station. Nice and easy!!

On arrival the lady at the ticket desk advises the 8.12am train to Roma is 10 minutes late. Buggar - could have meant a longer run for me. 

Once my tickets are sorted it’s straight to the cafe for coffee and pastry - my standard Italiano breakfast.  What on earth will I have tomorrow I ask??!

When I arrive on the platform it’s becomes clear I’m not the only person who is going to the airport this morning, there are at least 20 others waiting with me. Roma here we come!

An announcement is made that the train is coming yet I see nothing. Waiting waiting waiting.

The train that arrives is a sleeper train so it’s a bit of a mission to find a free seat and one that’s not sitting backwards.  Seat finally located.  We depart Orvieto 20 minutes later than the scheduled 8.12am departure.  Thankfully I’ve left myself a buffer to get to the airport for my 1.05pm flight.  I definitely will NOT be running through Roma Termini to get my next train.

Orvieto you have been a magnificent 2.5 days!  I could have easily spent longer (read forever....) and immersed myself further into your amazing city! 

When researching this trip I wanted somewhere that was a direct train ride away from Roma and no more than 2 hours (as I knew it would be an early start on Monday). Google maps was super helpful in coming up with lots of amazing places close but not very many options for that met the train requirement. Perhaps this will be my new way of choosing where I go in the further.

We pull into Roma Termini station 20 minutes later than the scheduled arrival. I’ve missed the one train to the airport that I had researched (would have given me 15 minutes to get from one to the other). Hopefully they leave frequently.

The next train is in 20 minutes so it’s a leisurely stroll over to the platform. The opposite of Friday’s run!

I’m given a fast track pass through security when I checked in.  Shame I don’t get a similar pass for immigration. Unlike last time (flying to Dubrovnik) my flight doesn’t leave for another 2 hours so I join the long line. After a couple of minutes I’m asked what passport I have - New Zealand - which gets me into another line (which I believe is the USA line), thankfully its quicker.

I had been given two options for the lounge – one has recently been done up so yes thanks I’ll go there. I enjoy my last taste of Italiano food on Italia soil.

 

Hard to believe my 2 weeks in Europe is over. It’s been amazing! 12.5 hour flight doesn’t seem too bad when you arrive in such a beautiful part of the world. Yes I’ll be returning.