No surprise the airport express is busy - it's a public holiday on Monday so everyone else clearly has the same idea as me....escaping for a long weekend. I've taken Tuesday off work so it's an even longer weekend for me.
After joining a very long line at security I'm finally through, first job is to work out what gate I'm at and from then where the closest lounge is. I had the assistance of Martin in London to help me.....a few minutes later I'm in the wonderful Qantas lounge. My favourite drink ordered and I'm all set. Seoul here I come!
At the gate my boarding pass beeps when it's checked - woo hoo I know what this means. I'm secretly smiling. The lady checks her screen against my boarding pass then tells me to have a safe flight. What?! Hold on. Ooh no. I've gone from smug to blah in a matter of milliseconds.
The 3 hour flight goes quickly which is great; when we land it's one of the longest taxi rides to the gate. Then an even longer walk (with a train in the middle) to reach immigration. The Korean's are very orderly and stand in lines. Wondering now if I've landed in another city and I need to walk to Seoul! There are people for Africa everywhere. The immigration lines are out of control long and seem to be moving as quick as a snail going backwards. Ooh how I miss my APEC card.
Finally I'm through immigration, now the fun begins. I have a quick stop at the currency exchange then it's a long walk to the train station. No need to go for a run tomorrow, I've done more than enough km's tonight. Thankfully there is a station worker at the ticket booths who assists me. At last I'm ready to leave the station and its 11.15pm local time. My tour to the DMZ starts tomorrow at 8am so hoping I can get some shut eye before then....not looking promising though as it’s a 53 minute train ride into the city then I have to take another train, and the train still hasn't arrived.
Departure time is 11.27pm, similar to Tokyo there is music to announce the arrival of the train. I'm one of the first to enter the train so get a seat immediately. Half way through the journey my eyes are closed....no need for a hotel tonight, subway seat will do the trick.
The first stop we have I'm shocked at the cold air that rushes in while people leave the train. On landing earlier the pilot said it was 16 degrees....a tad too cold for me.
It's just gone 12.45am and I'm on the second and last train for this journey, thankfully this is just 2 stops but then the fun really begins trying to locate the hotel. While the train isn't packed there are definitely lots of people around and I feel extremely safe. I'm beyond tired and can't believe I need to be up in 6 hours....After walking up what seems like hundreds of stairs I'm finally out and onto the streets of Seoul. I'd had a look at the map of the exits prior to leaving the station so have a fair idea where I'm supposed to be heading. Seems like I've booked a hotel in the shopping area of the city....the streets are basically deserted but again I feel very safe. Crazy really when I don't know one Korean word! After one small wrong turn I locate the hotel and get into my room at 1.20am (new time). Sleep is needed, and now!
Saturday, May 23 my alarm goes at 6.45am - I want to turn it off immediately and go back to sleep but alas no as today I'm off to the DMZ. Thankfully the tour begins at one of the fancy pants hotels opposite my hotel so the commute time is nice and easy.
My first stop is the bank, followed very closely by 7 Elven for water.
After the tour I head to the food hall of the Lotte Department store. Wow this reminds me of Japan (ooh how I miss that place)!!! I could spend hours here (Mum and Hannah you would be here for days and days and days.)
I head back to the hotel for a wee break and to work out what I'll do later - the thought of going to bed is extremely appealing but as its 5.45pm it just doesn't seem right.
I feel slightly more ready to face the world than I did an hour ago so decide to head out. From last night’s walk to the hotel I know I'm in a shopping / food paradise so decide to stay close to home and just explore. It's such a beautiful evening - warm but not hot and still very much day light, a nice change from HK who doesn’t have day light savings. The area is all pedestrianised and with it being Saturday night (of a long weekend) there are people everywhere. Three of my senses are on overdrive (Melody you would love it!!) walking down the first street - it's all about the street food here. The choices are endless and everyone seems to be eating, for now I'll just look and take it all in. I continue wondering around the streets, there is so much to see.
I'm starting to get hungry now, and with being tired I find it hard to decide where to go for food that I end up wandering around the streets for what seems like hours - it's probably more like 15 minutes - deciding where to go. I walk past one particular place that I think looks good, with the added bonus you can either sit outside or upstairs looking out on the world, but I keep walking and look at a few more places. Too many options for me!!
In the end I return to the place I thought looked good, the manager probably thinks I'm crazy as I've walked by 3 times already. Anyway I'm here now and sitting upstairs watching the world go by - bliss! Dinner is a beer with a beef roti dish. Delicious.
Saturday, May 24 I was woken by my alarm - crazy I know to have an alarm when you are on holiday but I'd reserved a seat on the hotel shuttle for 10am so had to get out of bed! I had a quick breakfast in the hotel restaurant, thinking tomorrow I'll be going out for breakfast. The views of the streets below were great though.
On the way to the Chang Deok Gung Palace we come across two men fighting (the second time since being here) - my heart races, it's something I absolutely hate to see, hurry up traffic and move. While I'm not watching them I can still hear them.
The Lotus Lantern Festival is tomorrow so there are lanterns strung up everywhere, all very colourful.
On arrival at Chang Deok Gung Palace I’m informed the English guided tour starts in 10 minutes, talk about perfect timing. I’m not one for tours with millions of people, ok perhaps this one has about 70 but it’s nice to be shown around and given the history.
Chang Deok Gung Palace is a Unesco World Heritage property that was originally built in the early 15th century. It was destructed during the Japanese invasion in the 1950’s, it was then rebuilt and became the royal residence.
I'd been recommended to visit the Secret Garden (Huwon) while here so joined the English guided tour that started at 11.30am. I'll be done with tours after this!!
From the Palace I walk towards the Anguk metro to start the lonely planet walk around the Bukchon neighbourhood. It seems everyone else has the same idea as me to be wandering around in the beautiful weather as there are sooo many people out and about.
In typical Sadj fashion I get a bit lost (navigation isn't my strong point and in my defence the LP map isn't the best...) so end up just walking around the area. This definitely reminds me of Tokyo, hmmm wondering when I’ll get back there again.
I head back to the area of my hotel by metro for a late lunch, and to get out of the sun. It's definitely hot!
After a wee break its time to go out exploring again - I decide to stick with my area but this time do head off in a different direction, coming across the Korea Postage Stamp museum...definitely something different.
Inside the Postage stamp museum you get to learn all about the history of postage stamps as well as experience all the different countries stamps. A stop I’m glad I had.
I head back to the streets and like everyone else that is around just wander the streets trying to take it all in. I finally come across the street food street from yesterday and take my time walking down it. Stopping off at most stalls to check out what they have and how it's being made. A great way to pass time!
Right it's well past drink o'clock so I head towards the street I was on last night for dinner and choose a different place - this one is all about chicken. But for me it's all about the beer. It's so nice to be sitting outside without sweating to death!
For dinner I find this random place near where I was drinking that is willing to do BBQ for one person - I'm very happy.....but perhaps I should reserve that for when the actual food arrives. Beer ordered, I'm set. The BBQ plate is set; heat on then the food slowly starts to arrive. I had expected to cook myself but alas no they do that for me :) I'm having marinated beef, which comes with a small salad and soup and an assortment of side dishes (lettuce leafs, kimchi, random vege dish, sliced onion in soy sauce, random seafood dish, pieces of garlic and some yellow random thing which there is no way I'll be trying!) and some rice. Let the fun begin!
With dinner over I head back to the hotel via the street food street, which I'm pleased to see is still in full force.
I've had a great day in Seoul and I know I haven't even scratched the surface of this amazing city! Thankfully I still have two more days here :)
Monday, May 25, after waking early I have a chilled couple of hours in the room before venturing out to explore more of Seoul. After visiting the super-efficient ATM I head across to the Lotte Department store for a coffee and snack for breakfast. Sooo many options but I decide to stick to western food for now - cafe latte and croissant are ordered. On exiting the store I spot Nine West shoes so head over. For once I spot a pair I like so decide to try on, while the lady is getting the mate I do a quick currency conversion......immediately the decision is a big fat N-O; the cost is close to 4 times what I would pay in HK so make a polite exit.
I sit outside enjoying my coffee and watching the blue sky. For some very strange reason I decide to head back into the Lotte department store, this time to the duty free floors - yes that's right floors! Now as you all know shopping is not something that I enjoy so I have absolutely no idea what I was thinking! Even waiting for the lift up I'm having second thoughts; and on arrival to the top floor these thoughts are confirmed. Bloody hell this is my worst nightmare come true! The place is packed with mainland Chinese tourists, and we all know how polite and quiet they are.....I decide to do the quickest block possible then its straight back to the lift. What on earth was I thinking!
Back into the sunshine I head to Seoul City Hall where I see more police than there are people - clearly something is going on but it's not obvious to me. I'm enjoying just wandering the streets, with it being a public holiday there aren't that many people around which is even nicer. This may be due to the area I'm in though. I continue walking to a metro station where I take the metro two stops. On arrival I'm looking at the map trying to work out what exit to take when an older man, who is a station worker, comes up to offer me his assistance. I feel ashamed that I have zero Korean and here he is (at least 70 years old) being able to give me directions and asking me what I want to see in English.
Today is Buddha's Birthday so I think it's only right that I pay a visit to the Temple to show my respects. On arrival at Jogyesa Temple it becomes extremely apparent that I'm not the only one that wants to do this. No surprise really! Jogyesa was completed in 1938 and is the largest temple building in Seoul. It's decorated with multi-coloured lanterns everywhere - a beautiful sight. I take my time wandering around the area, and this is not just due to the number of people around; I'm admiring the murals on the outside walls. Due to it being the Lotus Lantern Festival (celebrating the Buddha's birthday) I decide not to join the endless queues to go inside. I catch enough of a view of the 3 gilded Buddha statues from the outside.
I head back to the main intersection and meander my way down Insadong-Gil (which today is for pedestrians only). The street is packed with craft shops, galleries, restaurants, shops and traditional tea houses with little alleyways going off both sides. I know I'll spend many an hour wandering around here.
One thing I had expected to see here is street food stalls but alas none, for lunch I decide on a place that is packed (always a good sign) and that has a meal in English (key when you can't understand any Korean)! I order a seafood and leek pancake and sit back to take it all in.
Fully satisfied I continue my wandering - coming across a few street food stalls followed by large concrete pots housing a variety of lettuce. A great sight in this big city.
After leaving Insadong-Gil I wander around Tapgol Park where is there a celebration going on for the Buddha's birthday. Fun watching it, but the heat is too much so it’s time to move on.
I continue to wander, making sure I'm going in the direction of my hotel. A few streets down I come across Street Food Street (I kid you not, this is the actual name) so decide to head down. From 10pm at night it's blocked off to cars, motorbikes etc so I can imagine it would be very lively! Right now there are only a few stalls open, and of those opened about 50% are food - the rest are selling things (flowers, clothes etc). In one small area there are 5 stalls with groups of men at each eating, chatting and drinking. One does a mine to see if I want to join, I smile and say no making a beeline to get back onto the main thoroughfare.
As it’s a public holiday there are a lot of places closed, suits me as it means I can just wander without having to be concise of where I'm walking. Once I reach an area that looks familiar I decide to go off the Main Street and take the back streets / alleyways back to the hotel. Time for some serious a/c!!
Wowzers where has the time gone to?! It's well past beer o'clock - time to get out! I head back to the same street as the previous two nights, I know not very adventurous but I am trying new places on this strip. Plus it's so nice to be able to sit outside and enjoy the warm weather and the fact it's still light to after 8pm.
I'd been recommended a few places to eat while in Seoul and only tonight have I actually looked at my list....whoops. One is super close to my "beer street" so after paying my bill (which like all of the other places I've been too while in Seoul I need to take my bill up to the counter) I head to look for Jeju Black Pork BBQ place. Thankfully the instructions I'm given are very good so I find it within
minutes :) (It’s just across the block from my beer street.)
On entering I see it’s massive, hoping this doesn't mean the food isn't good. After a few minor language issues I'm taken to a table - my own little BBQ which has an individual fan to remove all of the cooking fumes, very handy given you can move it either closer to the food or further away. Within minutes I've ordered, beer and black pork. Even quicker the food comes out. Like all other meals I've had on Seoul it's accompanied by a selection of sides. Dad you would love the sides of onions!
The ladies seem very worried about me as they keep coming over to tell me to turn - don't worry I have it all under control.....another sip of beer then I'm onto it.
Finally it's time to eat - lettuce leaf in hand, spread some kind of sauce (praying it's not spicy), pick up BBQ and dip into special sauce, put pork onto lettuce. Add some bean sprout, trying not to take too much of the red stuff in case it's hot. Wrap lettuce leaf and eat - yummo! It's delicious. Hmm wonder what they would say if I asked for another set....Something has a kick but it's a "I want more of that" kick. Major bugger I only came here tonight.
I'm more than half way through my meal when someone comes by to remove the coals - I'm so tempted to ask for "the same again" but the man is on a mission, plus it would be piggy.....haha no pun intended!
Tuesday (May 26, 2015) after waking early I take my time getting up then head to the Cheonggyecheon Stream for a run. A great way to start a day! Cheonggyecheon Stream is a modern stream running through downtown Seoul, with footbridges, waterfalls and public artworks along the way.
After walking back to the hotel I start the awful task of packing up, then check out. I still have a few hours before I need to start to think about heading to the airport so decide to head to Namsangol Hankok Village which is a historical village in the middle of Seoul. After wandering around the streets near my hotel I grab a quick snack then head to the metro.
On exiting it's all nicely sign posted, great for a navigation challenged person like me! I had read in my trusty lonely planet there are free English speaking tours so I head off to Information only to be told it's closed on Tuesday. Buggar I'd missed seeing that in the LP! Ooh well I'm here now so might as well wander around the grounds.
Similar to this morning’s run it was so nice and peaceful, and apart from hearing other tourist’s chit chat as we passed each other I was alone with the sounds of the birds. Bliss!
I head back to Myeong Dong and slowly make my way through the streets to find somewhere to eat. I'd been recommended to eat fried chicken while here so decide that is what I'll have as my last Seoul meal. By now its mid-afternoon and hotter than hell - didn't stop me electing to sit outside under an umbrella. People walking by did stare and I'm sure thought I was crazy but hey ho.
My time in Seoul has come to an end; it's been a great 4 days and while I feel like I've done lots I am also well aware I've really only touched the surface of this vibrant and fascinating city. One thing is for sure I will return!
For now it's time to collect my bag and head to the airport. It's a short walk to the metro then a whole lot of stairs to reach the actual track. I have one transfer, which seems long but it's really only because it's up/down a few times.
At last I arrive at the airport and am pleased to note it's far more manageable than it was on Friday night when I arrived. On check-in I'm told the flight is delayed 1.20 hours - WTF!! That's a real pain, a few minutes later the email from Cathay arrives. A tad late I would say. The delay is due to the hideous weather HK has had today. Thank goodness I have lounge access.
No comments:
Post a Comment