Yes I’m off to Pakistan - I appreciate it’s not a usual travel destination however my friend Afshan’s brother (Umair) is getting married and I’ve been invited. Country number 61 here I come!!
I decide to walk to IFC with my suitcases; winter has arrived again! At IFC in town check in I ask the service center what aisle Qatar airways is; the friendly man informs me they don’t open to 1.30pm. Buggar. Off to work I go!
It’s a nice casual check in close to 2pm. One of the perks of coming now is next to no one is around.
I have a few minutes wait before getting on the 3.42pm airport express. My holiday has officially started.
The lines are security and immigration move quickly considering the number of people around. Qantas lounge here I come.
As I’m queuing up to board I have two people from the business I support at work line up after me. In the 5 years I’ve been in Hong Kong I’ve never been on a flight at Christmas time without someone I know from work. They are both in business class.....let’s hope for a glass of champagne later :)
We land into Doha, Qatar at 12.20am on Saturday; 40 minutes later than scheduled. I managed to get a bit of shut eye but definitely need a lot more!! One advantage of arriving late is I have less time to wait to my next flight. Qatar Airways definitely need to sort their temperature gauges out, one minute I’m freezing the next boiling hot - the whole trip.
As I step off the gangplank into Doha terminal I’m welcomed by a friendly airport employee. So lovely.
After clearing through security I follow the crowds. You would think its midday with the number of people around!
It’s a bit of a mere getting onto the WiFi - in the end I give up and decide I need to eat something. For whatever reason I didn’t eat on the plane.
In the end the WiFi starts to work - major win - Umair (Afshan’s brother and the groom) and I manage to message each other. We meet at the boarding gate.
Given we need to take a bus to the plane we wait until the last possible moment to go through the boarding gate.
It’s just after 7am HK time; 2am Qatar time and 4am Pakistan time - I’m wide awake! Must try to get some sleep on this flight.
We are late departing Doha; come on Qatar Airways you can do better!
As we start our descent into Karachi the sun is starting to make an appearance.
I had no idea what to expect when flying in, having a window seat allowed me to get a good view of parts of the city.
We land into Karachi at 7.13am. I’m super excited to be here!!! Let the adventure begin.
I can see the sun peaking up behind the buildings. No photos due to the condensation on the outside of the windows. The pilot announces its 15 degrees (brrrrrr); my weather app informed me a few hours ago it will get to 27 degrees today.
We are then informed another plane is at our gate and they won’t be pushing back for at least another 15 minutes so we will hang out here.......
I pass the time watching the sun rise.
It’s what you might call disorganized at immigration - I’m so grateful that Umair is with me!! We are shuttled between the same two counters a few times. In between this Umair receives his entry stamp which makes for interesting conversation when it’s finally my turn to get a stamp.
A quick bathroom stop for us both and for me a top change before we exit the immigration area. We need to show our passports with the stamp before they will let us in the luggage carousel area. As we have taken soooo long our bags are sitting on the floor waiting for us. One positive of taking forever at immigration.
Afshan. Arman, Fauzia (Afshan’s sister who I call Api, means older sister), Umair’s best friend and Api’s driver are waiting for us when we exit. There is of course lots of noise and excitement!
The driver takes all the bags and we all go in the car with Umair’s best friend. I spend the whole drive looking out the window - so many things remind me of India.
On arrival at Afshan’s parents my bags are taken to our house which is on the same plot of land / complex and right next door. It’s great to finally meet Afshan’s parents! Both are extremely welcoming to me.
Breakfast is an egg on toast followed by super delicious samosas – YUM!!!!
I get into bed just after 10.20am, going to have a two hour nap / sleep before getting up and having a take two on the day.
I wake a few times then at 11.50am I force myself to get up. I could easily sleep for the rest of the day!
Once showered and dressed I head back to Afshan’s parents house where Adrian and Arman are.
When Afshan and Api return there are many more conversations on the wedding and what’s required. We enjoy some outside time with the two children.
I take Afshan up on her offer of lunch before we head out. Delicious chicken curry with rice.
Afshan, Api, Adrian, Aleezah (Api’s daughter) and I head off mid-afternoon. We are off to buy bangles for the wedding events.
Traffic is as expected for a city of about 15 million people! The sights are very similar to what I’ve seen before in Asia.
Along the way we have a stop to collect part of someone’s outfit for one of the wedding events.
Back on the street we go and drive a few minutes to where there are a number of jewellery stores. Afshan and Api decide on one.
Given there are only two workers we take it in turns to try on the different designs they put together for you based on what you want.
Across the road we head to buy a box and small bags for one of the wedding events. While they are deciding what to buy Aleezah and I entertain ourselves by standing the street corner watching daily life go by.
Driving to Api’s parents in laws house we come across a couple of donkey carts - not what I expected! I was too slow and to excited to take photos. Hopefully there will be another opportunity.
We dropped Api, Aleezah and Adrian (and went in to say hello quickly) then headed to Afshan’s dress maker which was close by.
Traffic didn’t seem as busy on the journey back home but then again we were in the better designed part of the city now.
It had been a busy but great first afternoon / early evening in Karachi!
Dinner was family style just before 8.30pm; I was struggling to keep my eyes open.
Sunday 22 December I wake just after 7am; I’d been awake a few times in the night but generally slept well.
I spy the blue sky of the sun rising. This time yesterday I’d just landed in Karachi.
I decide on roti only for breakfast - hopefully this will settle my upset stomach.
Thankfully Api approves of the 3 wedding outfits Afshan and I had had made in Hong Kong.
Api and I are dropped off at the salon - Shampoo and blow wave for me! Afshan and her Mum have some shopping to do. I’m glad now I didn’t try to wash my hair this morning.
Once my hair is done (ooh it’s so much nicer having it washed and dried by someone else) I decide to have a pedicure. It was on my list to do before leaving HK but I ran out of time.
Api and I are sent to the supermarket to get yoghurt. Maybe next time I’ll have more time to wander down each aisle.
Back at the house we all have lunch. I elect to sit on a chair so that I don’t ruin my pedicure :)
Afshan, Arman and I went to one of the local shops where I managed to get one top. Look at me, purchasing clothes….
Late afternoon I head to my room to relax and even managed a wee nap.
Tonight we are doing a food tour of Karachi. Refer to other blog.
I finally get into bed at 12.50am. A super cool fun evening!! Sleep is needed!
Monday 23 December I wake to the noise of the birds and planes but managed to go back to sleep for a bit.
The cook makes me a boiled egg and peppermint tea for breakfast.
Afshan asks me if I want to go with her Mum to buy chicken - UMMM YES PLEASE! How exciting.
We make a brief stop outside a small vegetable stall, on stopping the car the man comes over and Afshan’s Mum gives her order. We want to buy cabbage, chilli, ginger, green beans and coriander. The ginger isn’t up to their standard so out she gets and goes to pick it herself.
We drive a couple of minutes down the road and come across a market. Chicken time!
Back into the car we go, about 50 meters then we stop and all get out. Ye ha! It’s time to buy some fruit.
My hair is beyond gross after last night’s food tour, I happily head off to the salon for a wash and blow dry. When we return to the house where the marquee tent has started to be put up.
Next errand is taking clothes to the dry cleaning - honestly life hasn’t been this exciting for a while. It’s the small things.....
USD 4.50 to dry clean two items - I should have brought my whole wardrobe! Yes I appreciate Mum the total bill wouldn’t have been much more than USD 15.....
I’m struggling with the poverty; small children and mothers with children come up to us / me all the time asking for money for food. Sometimes touching my hand.
We nearly get in the wrong car to go home post dropping off dry cleaning - provides entertainment for the locals!
I spend the afternoon at the complex chatting and helping make up the party favour bags for tonight.
Late afternoon I head off with Api and one of her cousins to look at clothes. I’ve been advised I need to buy white trousers so that I have a white outfit for an event tomorrow. Thankfully it’s a successful trip.
There are samosas when we arrive back at the house. Yum.
I enjoy a bit of quiet time in my room before having to start to get ready for the Mehndi.
A Mehndi, typically separate for the bride and groom, is an event where family and friends gather for dinner, fancying and to apply henna to bride or grooms hands. The bride/groom don’t attend the others event, however there are always a couple of family members that attend and they bring sweets for the bride/groom to eat.
People slowly start to turn up close to 9pm. It’s nice to see some familiar faces from last night and the past two days. Now if only I could remember everyone’s names!!
Dinner is finally served at 10.15pm; grandma here is struggling to stay awake and the event hasn’t really started yet.
Post dinner there is singing followed by a game for Umair. He sits on the stage and people go and either feed him a desert (both round shapes) or put henna on his hands. I elect for the smaller of the desert and just give him a bit of henna.
The singing and dancing really kicks off after midnight. Great people watching! I’m dragged up a few times to join in the fun.
I climb into bed at 1.15am listening to the music, signing and clapping below me. Another amazing day!
I wake at 7.45am on Christmas Eve (Tuesday 24 December); 100% more sleep is needed! Next wedding event I’ll be having a nap in the afternoon before we go out.
I have a few failed attempts before managing a shower - and in the end need to use the small bucket to rinse. Thank goodness for the salon!!
A Nikkah is the formal marriage ceremony (the religious ceremony) which is signed by both the bride and groom in presence of their family. There are always two ceremonies, one for the bride and one for the groom.
We listen to the Nikkah through a phone. I don’t understand anything but it’s nice to sit and feel part of it all. At the conclusion of the ceremony it’s time to congratulate Afshan’s Mum. A few minutes later Umair then comes in and hugs his Mum. We all now congratulate him.
The ladies enjoy lunch downstairs.
I manage to have about half an hour relaxing in my room before we ladies have to leave for Ruqaiya’s (the bride) house for a music event.
I’m asked if I want the front seat, yes please. Better for viewing Karachi life.
Once all four cars have arrived we take our gifts up the stairs to the roof top where we are greeted by her family and friends.
As we sit down Afshan asks me to cover my hair as it is religious songs we are listening to. No problem at all. It’s peaceful just sitting here listening to the music. After a while we all stand and turn a particular way. Not entirely sure why or for what but hey ho.
At the conclusion we chat, have photos and feed the bride.
The drive back took just over an hour, we definitely hit rush hour. Being dark I saw a different side of Karachi than a couple of hours ago. HUGE bonus I finally see a donkey, which the driver very kindly slowed down for.
I decide to stay back at the house rather than go out for dinner. As much as I would love to go I’m tired and need to be ready to leave the house tomorrow morning at 7.30am. Zubair and I have a friendly bet on what time they will leave the house - pre or post 9pm. It’s after 9pm as I had thought.
It’s a quick dinner before I say goodnight.
I climb into bed at 9.45pm after another fun filled day. It’s been an amazing 4 days so far! But for now sleep is needed.
Christmas Day (Wednesday 25 December) I wake to my alarm at 6.45am - someone whistling on the streets had woken me at 3am.
Today I’m doing a morning city tour of Karachi. The road is so nice and peaceful at this time of the morning.
Refer to the Christmas Day blog for my day.
Back at the house there are two ladies doing henna. I’m told to use Instagram to choose my design.
My henna took less than 15 minutes. I managed to leave it on for close to 3 hours before washing it.
I elect not to go to Ruqaiya’s house for music and dancing, instead an early night (for Karachi!) is on the cards.
I was woken by the call to prayer on Boxing Day (Thursday 26 December) then managed to go back to sleep waking at 8am. A nice wee sleep in! So lovely not having to rush. This time yesterday I was already out the house and waiting for the tour to start.
Thankfully I haven’t got any henna on my face. It’s darkened overnight too.
I have the majority of the day at the house.
Late afternoon I head out with Afshan’s Dad and cousin to view the venue for Sunday night.
10.15pm we finally leave the house to go to the cousins wedding.
On arrival we say goodbye to the men and head to the ladies only section. This is apparently quite common in Pakistan but not with Afshan’s family. Good to experience something new.
We say our hellos to those we know - me a much smaller group than Afshan - then join a cousin and her sister in law. A few minutes later it is announced food is served. Off we go. Thirty minutes after arriving Afshan’s Dad calls to say he’s ready to leave. Brilliant!
I climb into bed at 12.10am, basically two hours since we left for the wedding. Talk about a quick turnaround.
I wake just after 8am on Friday 27 December. It’s beautiful blue sky again.
Breakfast is super delicious potato roti.
Adrian and I are off on a wee adventure today. Our Uber driver arrives shortly after ordering - a small van.
On arrival at Jinnah House (Quaid-E-Azam) we are informed it is closed. What a shame. They allow us to walk around the grounds though.
We are now working out our next port of call - the heavily armed security man informs us we need to do it outside the gate. One minute please; no. Right out we go.
Our next Uber turns up, it’s a small blue car. The driver has google maps on (like our first driver) which is in English.
I’d seen Afshan’s Pakistani shoes and really like them so we head off to Azum shopping center.
First shop doesn’t have what I like in my size so on we go. The second shop has someone who speaks English - bingo! I purchase two pairs; we are about to depart when Afshan calls with her order :)
On arrival at Dolmen Shopping center it’s time for coffee first.
Basically all the shops are closed, only F&B places are open. We have a wander around and managed to look in two stores before going to Carrefour.
On arrival back at the house it’s lunch time then I escape to have a 30 minute power nap. I could have easily stayed longer but the salon is calling!
As soon as my hair has been washed I change into my dress. Man alive it’s hot! But will come in handy later when it cools down. The lady sitting next to me tells me it’s beautiful and asks who the designer is. This has NEVER happened before :)
Of course I get hotter as the lady dries my hair.
Makeup and hair done - all I need now is jewellery and shoes.
Back at the house I finish getting ready then meet at the main house where everyone starts to gather. The photographer arrives and snaps away. Tonight is the bride’s main event.
At the venue we all gather outside and walk in together as a group as a drummer is drumming; a few people are dancing. We are announcing the groom is arriving.
Before and post dinner there are lots of photos with the bride and groom.
Once the majority of people have gone there is a negotiation that happens between Umair and the bride’s family. They manage to steal his shoes which they take as ransom. Even though I don’t understand what they are saying it’s lots of fun to watch them.
Rings are exchanged followed by cake cutting. As this is all happening the staff of the venue are completing clearing the tables. Talk about a massive sign for us to leave.
When it’s time to go the bride says goodbye to her family. I’m told at other weddings there is often lots of tears as this is when the bride leaves her home and moves in with the husband’s family.
I climb into bed at 1.30am, earlier than I had thought we would be so that’s a win.
Saturday 28 December I wake just after 8am but manage to go back to sleep for another hour.
It’s a quiet morning at our house; I start to sort some things out for packing. I’m not ready to go home!
With Umair and Ruquiya due around 1.30pm we set up some decorations outside and do up their room.
In some families the tradition is some of the bride’s family arrive with breakfast / brunch then the bride and groom arrive.
Ruquiya is ushered inside the house as soon as they arrive; Umair on the other hand had to remain outside until he negotiated with his sisters to be allowed inside with Ruquiya, this of course cost him money. Sooo many laughs!
We all enjoy a relaxed brunch and afternoon.
I have some time out in my room relaxing and packing. It’s hard to believe I’ve been here for a week already, it seems so much longer. And what an amazing week it’s been!!
Afshan, Arman and I have dinner at 9pm. I’m so used to eating late now.
Most of the family leave before 9.30pm for the second wedding event for the cousin. I’m so glad I’m staying home.
Afshan, Arman and I hang out with Afshan’s Dad for a bit.
I get into bed at 11.05pm, “an early” night. Heaven. Tomorrow’s wedding event is at lunchtime so it will be an up and at it morning tomorrow.
Sunday 29 December (my last day 😒) I wake just before 8am. Today we have the last (formal) wedding event - the Valima (or Walima).
Sitting here with the normal breakfast crowd I realize this time tomorrow I’ll be on the plane and in the sky. My time here seems to have whizzed by.
Off to the salon I go for my last Karachi hair appointment. I decide to have a manicure. It’s a bit busy this morning with everyone coming and going.
Back at the house it’s a super quick change to get ready for the wedding. I’m now regretting the manicure but hey ho. There are of course photos before we depart.
On arrival at the venue the staff are still fixing things up. As the guests start to arrive I go and greet those I know - amazing how many people you meet in a week!!
As with all other wedding events there are photos galore! I feel sorry for Umair and Ruquiya as this is day 3 of sitting in the same place while everyone comes and goes.
Lunch is slightly different which is nice.
The immediate family (which is large!) stays behind when everyone else has gone for you guessed it more photos! Lots of fun.
We get back to the house just before 6pm. It’s been another great event. I finish packing then join the others in the main house - chatting and relaxing.
We finally leave the house after 9pm; definitely on Pakistan time here not German time. It took a few days to adjust to but now I have (I think......).
We are off to an outside cafe for Chai (tea) and food.
It’s chilly this evening, so glad I have a few wraps on. We manage to get a long table that seats us all. Lots of chat and tasty food. A great way to end my fabulous week here!!
I climb into bed at 11.52pm; I’m not at all ready for my alarm to go off in 6 hours. Definitely hope I sleep on the plane.
My alarm goes at 6am on Monday 30 December; it had been a short night especially as I woke at 4am. I enjoy listening to the call to prayer while I wake up.
The driver arrives at 6.30am. Afshan, Api and their Mum take me to the airport. I enjoy my last Karachi sights sitting in the front seat.
The lines to enter the terminal are long. Like some other airports in Asia you need to show your passport and ticket to enter.
After putting my bags through a Security scanner I show my passport to someone else. I’m asked where I’m going after Doha and what I was in Pakistan for. A little strange but I answer.
At check-in I’m asked for my Pakistan visa - a tad odd me thinks as I’m leaving the country but hey ho. The super friendly guy informs me I’ll likely need to show it again at immigration.
This immigration line isn’t as long but boy oh boy it’s slooooow. When it’s finally my turn I’m asked for my visa again.
One more passport check before I’m through immigration. That’s now 5 times and I’m not even on the plane yet.
I have a few failed attempts to enter a lounge so decide to just head to the gate. Security clearance again and yes that's right my passport gets checked again.
They have separate security lines for males and females. Females are then taken into a small make shift room for the pat down. From memory I’ve only had this in one other place - India.
Coffee and banana walnut cake is ordered. I have a good hour before boarding.
For whatever reason I board far too early; at the time I didn’t realize this. The positive is my suitcase is above my seat.
We pull back from the gate ten minutes later than scheduled.
Goodbye Karachi - you have been absolutely fabulous! I will definitely return.
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