We have to stop for immigration - I take the opportunity to get out of the car and walk a bit. It's definitely going to be needed when we reach out final destination. Our guide does everything for us, nice and easy. Not 100% clear why there is an immigration stop here as it's not near the border of India.
Right this is where the fun begins - dirt road and holes.
Time to stare straight ahead and outside. Thankfully this doesn't last forever, although at the time it felt like it would! before we are back onto tar seal. Now don't go thinking normal tar seal, think a two way road (on a windy hill) with a one car width only of tar seal down the middle of the road. Dirt on both sides. So when a car comes towards us one of us needs to move onto the dirt, more times than not it’s us!
We stop at Dochu La Pass where there are 108 stupas / chortens and a large amount of prayer flags. Opening the car door there is a nip in the air. Time to layer up - but with the sun out I elect I remain with bare legs. Everyone seems to find this strange and is staring. Ooh well I'm good thanks. On a good day you are supposed to get great views of the Bhutan Himalaya's, not today unfortunately.
The 108 stupas / chortens were built in 2005 as atonement for the loss of life caused by the flushing out of Assamese militants in southern Bhutan. We ditch our guide (ok we leave him at the coffee shop) and wander around the stupas / chortens. It's so nice and peaceful. Thankfully there aren't that many other people around.
We walk across to the botanic gardens where there are so many prayer flags; it also provides great views over the stupas / chortens.
As we are heading back to the coffee shop three wild horses go charging up the gardens. One last walk amongst the stupas / chortens; I spy a wee bunny rabbit. Yah the bunny rabbit did find me in Bhutan!
Time for coffee! We choose to sit outside - everyone else is inside. Why I have no idea as it's not that cold and the sun is out. It's great to be in the fresh air and staring at the stupers.
All of a sudden it's time to get back into the car.
The roads continue in the same condition - tar seal, dirt, half tar seal repeat. At times we pass constructions workers, some busy at work others seem to be just standing around.
We pass a few small stalls selling fruit and vegetables. Can't imagine it's busy for them but I may well be wrong.
Traffic starts to slow, as we get closer we notice traffic has stopped due to a digger pushing dirt from above onto the road. Perfect time to get out and stretch my legs!! Thankfully we are only here for 10 minutes before its time for our side of the road to pass by.
We pull into Hotel Lobesa in Punakha for lunch just before midday - not sure I've ever eaten lunch so early :) The views are amazing! We have a night here on our way back, fingers crossed it will be super sunny then. Lunch is super tasty. We have about 30 minutes before we have to leave so head off for a walk. With all the construction around the roads are super dusty!
Buggar it's time to get back into the car again......traffic and the road condition continues, although this time the road conditions are getting worse. About an hour up the road I notice a lot of people hanging around, our guide announces its an archery competition so we stop for a look see. Nice to get out of the car again! We are told it's a final as there are women in a circle dancing. A shame we are looking down on it and not down in the mix.
At some point of the washing machine ride I turn to Sunny to say "now would be a bad time to say I need the bathroom", we giggle! A few minutes up the road we ask our guide when the next bathroom stop is - 45 minutes. Yeah umm that's not going to work for me; but there is absolutely nothing around so I guess I don't have much choice!
Sunny spots a building so asks what that is and more importantly does it have a bathroom? The answer comes back that yes it does so we stop. We are warned it won't be nice - I'm not remotely interested in what it's like. As long as it does the job!
On getting back into the car I declare to the driver that "it's the best bathroom ever" - he just laughs as it knows exactly what they are like!
Literally 45 minutes later we arrive at the restaurant for the planned stop of coffee/tea and biscuits - I'm easy on whether we stop or not but am concise Ringo Star needs a break. They elect to stop so out we get. After having the standard coffee and biscuits I go outside to stretch my legs and come across a few cows and prayer flags.
From here we are told its one hour to the hotel. Woo hoo the Homewood stretch! The road conditions definitely don't improve, if anything they worsen. We pass a lot more construction workers as well as yaks. Once we turn off to the village we start to notice a few monks.
On arrival at the hotel we are offered coffee/tea and biscuits - standard welcome greeting in Bhutan! The views over the valley are amazing. Shame it's not clear, hopefully tomorrow morning. After being shown to our room (which is huge!) we head out for a walk around the "village".
This valley is known for growing potatoes as well as back neck craines (here in the winter time then head to Tibet over the summer). We are walking along the dirt road amongst potatoes fields, passing numerous cows just hanging out along with a few vehicles. Nice to be rural for a change!
Dinner definitely does not disappoint! We choose a table near to the open fire, order a beer and settle in. Happy Easter to us! The potatoes are to die for. With nothing to do here, and the fact it’s cold, we head to our heated room.
Easter Monday (28 March) I'm awake before my 6am alarm; we were supposed to be leaving the hotel at 7am this morning but as breakfast doesn't open to 7am the departure time had to be pushed back. Unfortunately there is no power; no wonder the room is colder than last night. Thankfully there is hot water! The view down the valley is misty, a shame as it would have been great to see what it's like in the sun shine. Not today.
I head out for a walk after breakfast; thankfully there is only one road in and out so there is no chance of me getting lost!! There is a hype of activity at 7.30am, children walking to school; monks on the back of a truck (I'm assuming going to school as the truck passes me again empty); cows wandering; a man brushing his teeth outside; women walking; black crows "keeping me company" / trying to attack me; and cows running to go out exploring for the day. I manage to get to the end of the road (36 minutes) before I'm picked up.
The road seems a lot worse today, but perhaps that's because we have just started.
Just as we arrive at the Gangtey Goempo (monastery) the heavens open! And out comes the thunder and lightning. Buggar! Sunny goes back to the car to get her umbrella; Chimi and I head to the side of the outside wall where we are at least covered.
The monastery was established way back in 1613 by the grandson of the great Bhutanese “treasure revealer” and was built like a Dzong *fortress”. We are the only tourists which is great, one of the huge pluses of arriving so early. After walking around the outside we head inside – the first thing I notice is how cold, actually freezing, the floor is and that there is no light. Chimi and the monk provide some light via their phone and a torch.
Four young monks start to talk to me - I really wish I had longer to speak with them. They have been in the monastery for 3 years and have another 6 years to go.
Ringo Star (my name for our driver) has managed to drive up to the entrance of the monastery, so it's a quick step, hop and jump to the car and dryness!
About an hour into our drive, which by the way feels like it's been about 10 hours!, we are stopped again due to road works. If only it wasn't raining I would get out and walk around.
We have a coffee stop, which is perfect as a bathroom break is needed! This road isn't the best if you remotely need the bathroom. On entering the restaurant the ladies stock up the fire - it's so lovely standing in front of it. There is a little girl who is hanging around, she is super shy and will only speak with Ringo Star.
By the time we get back into the car the rain has stopped - woo hoo! The fog is lifting up from the trees, so picturesque. Am sure the photos won't do it the justice it deserves.
A few more traffic stops - definitely not a quiet road this one! We stop at a lookout - great views of the Trongsa Dzong and mountains.
Before starting to drive up the hill to lunch (we are all starving!) Ringo star needs to take his papers to be verified. All good and we are off!
We have a great table at the restaurant looking out at the fortress and the mountains. A view I would never tire off.
On arrival at Trongsa Dzong it’s raining so out comes my poncho; unfortunately after walking to the entrance Chimi is told I need to remove it and Sunny has to put down her umbrella. Seems crazy when there is hardly anyone one else around and it’s raining
Trongsa Dzong, the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan, is still a working fortress. It was built overlooking the gorge so the views are amazing! It was used by both the first and second kings of Bhutan. After Chimi had given us the run down we just wander around, it’s so nice and peaceful with no one else around.
As we approach Yutong La pass we notice patches of white on the side of the road - is it rock? Is it ice? Or is it snow? The more we drive we realise its snow, brrrr. We stop at the top of the pass for our guide / photographer (he is using my camera) to go out in the freezing cold and rain to take some photos. Sunny and I do this from the car, a lot more comfortable. The further down we get the less and less snow there is - but boy there is snow up on the mountains!
The rains have created flowing waterfalls; some seem like little trickles others have water gushing down the side of the mountain.
We have spent many an hour today watching out for the big trucks, which the majority seem to have “eyes eyes” or “eyes eyes eyes eyes” on them. Definitely helps to pass the time! I remember as a child playing I spy, here it’s all about spotting the eyes and getting the photos. (There will be a blog just for the trucks).
The further down we get the more into Switzerland 2 we get into. It's so picturesque! We notice lots of school children walking home from school, it's well after 5pm so a long day for them. The road seems to improve and is all tar seal - a great way to end the day!
Within minutes of getting onto the flat we are pointed out our hotel, which is on the other side of the river. Ye ha we are nearly there!
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