Our luggage has already been taken to the room. When we arrive in the room I'm surprised how big it is. The owner had advised earlier it’s an 8 room hotel which he wants to add an extra 9 rooms. Perhaps if the room size wasn't as big there would be more than 8 rooms now, but I do love a big room so there are no complaints here.
Dinner was tasty, family table style, washed down with the local Red Panda beer. A good end to a long day.
Tuesday, 29 March I wake at 5am, far too early! Shortly after the dogs wake too :( definitely no more sleep now. Up to now it had been a peaceful night.
I head out for a run at 6.10am - brrrr its bloody freezing! But the views make up for it. I see a monastery / fortress peering through the clouds. Thankfully on return to the hotel the heater is still going in full force. The views from the room are amazing!
After Sunny had a cold shower (there is limited hot water but no one informed us….) we have breakfast - now we are ready to face the day! It's soooo nice to see beautiful blue sky, ooh how I've missed thee.
As we arrive at Tamshing Lhakhang it's MA (monk alert) everywhere - great for a photo op. Tamshing Lhakhang was build back in 1501, a few years ago….; it’s famous for the collections of paintings all over the walls. These were done by the founder, who died when he was 27 years ago.
It’s so nice to be outside in the sunshine, but after wandering around the courtyard it’s time to head inside. I was amazed how many of the paintings are still in great condition. No photos allowed, along with the limited sunlight, definitely helps to keep their condition.
As we headed upstairs the monks started to enter into the temple area (downstairs); shortly after the chanting began. Wow! A special moment to be in here listening (and watching a little bit) to them. Chimi was explaining about the top floor but my mind was elsewhere! The founder had made an iron chain before he passed away; Sunny put it on her back and walked clockwise around three times. The reason for "wearing" is it to do with getting ready of the evil spirits or perhaps it's to clear yourself of your sin.
We drive through the "village", can't wait to wander around here later on, and onto Kurjey Lhakhang which is also known as Kurjey Monastery.
Kurjey Lhakhang one of Bhutan’s sacred monasteries, is surrounded by an enclosure made of 108 chortens (which were placed at regular individuals on top of the enclosure). Gura Rinpoche meditated here and left an imprint of his body, in a cave.
It’s time to get back into the car but as Sunny is still inside the complex I decide to walk down the hill – am loving being outside in the fresh air!
We head back towards the village to Jambay Lhakhang, or Temple of Maitreya. Chimi advises it is said to be one of the 108 temples built by a Tibetan King back in the 7th century. The sun is out in full force so it’s nice to head inside and under cover for a short time. Inside the temple there are a few monks chanting – ooh to be able to just stand and stare; not exactly kosha so I turn my attention to Chimi who is explaining to us about the large Wheel of Time which was built by the first king of Bhutan to commemorate his victory over his rivals.
Heading outside we wander around the grounds – the first thing I notice on exiting is the number of the locals sitting on the concrete under the large tree. One way to keep out of the sun. The second is the grounds seem to be at least four times the size of the temple. I follow a couple of locals walking around turning the prayer wheels.
Chimi announces it’s time to leave to go for lunch. I feel like we are just getting started; it’s back to the hotel we head - not exactly what we want to do but hey ho! By the time we leave tomorrow morning it will mean we have eaten all 5 meals here. The joys of being on a tour.
We had about an hour after lunch before going out for the afternoon so Sunny and I decide to head down to the river for a walk. I was told we could walk all the way to the bridge (in the village) but that wasn't to be, so we returned the same way we came - Sunny went back to the hotel to collect something and I kept walking, in the opposite direction.
We head back through the village to Jakar Dzong – the fortress of the Bumthang district. On arrival we need to walk up some stairs to get to the entrance. We are already quite high from here so the views are amazing, am sure they will be better further up. This is the fortress that I’ve been staring at ever since arriving in Jakar.
Jakar is derived from the word bjakhab, meaning “white bird” so for me (and quite possibly many others) it’s the fortress of the white bird. Jakar Dzong was built, on the site of a temple, back in 1667 and may be the largest dzong in Bhutan.
Similar to other places we have visited there is next to no one around, which makes wandering around so lovely.
We head back down to the town / village where Chimi advises we can wander around; we are asking how long we need….how long is a piece of string?! And quickly realise the reason for him asking that is to know how long he and Ringo Star need to hang around. No thanks, we can walk back to the hotel. You are free to go back and sleep.
The town / village is really a two main street place so after going into a few shops on the main main street we head to the back street where we come across a small fruit and vegetable market. Very different to the weekend market in Thimphu.
Before we walk into one shop we saw a western lady standing outside reading a lonely planet so asked her what the recommendations are as my LP book is in the car. She told us about a Swiss cheese place that also served beer. Yes thanks we'll go there. Now to find it - after a few failed attempts of asking people we struck gold, the walking pace picks up!
We were told it would take around 20 minutes to walk there - no problem with that. Definitely lots to look at along the way.
Yoser Lhamo is right next door to the Red Panda Weiss Beer brewing company, after a quick look around (in the very small shop) we head to the brewery to check that out. It's closed so back to Yoser Lhamo we go; first question is are they serving the draft beer? Yes. Then do you have a bathroom as we need that before we start the beer drinking? Yes. Bingo we are in. It took at least 15 minutes to pour two very bad draft beer; for Sunny it's the worse draft beer she has ever had. At least she has bubbles - mine is as flat as this morning’s pancake!
Right time to get out of this joint and walk back to our hotel; on walking outside I notice the wind is still around unfortunately and with the sun nearly gone the temperature has dropped. Brrrr I don't have enough warm clothes on for this. It's a stop start walk for Sunny (so she can take photos) and for me it's a lot of walking around in big circles. We arrive back at the hotel just before 6.30pm.
For dinner we sit by the fire, a shame they hadn't put it on earlier. After three carbs (rice, pasta and potatoes), fish and carrots we head outside for operation shoe fix. Sunny's sneakers had started to fall apart so when we were in "town" earlier she had brought some glue. I act as the trusty photographer!
Wednesday, 30 March we are woken again by the little puppies - don't they know 4.45am is still sleep time!!! I know they are super gorgeous but really, it's 4.45am.
I head out for a walk after breakfast with the plan I'll be picked up along the way. We have a whole day driving so being able to do some exercise before sitting in a car is needed! To start with it’s just me, some moo moo's, the ever loud black crows and the sound of the river - brilliant!! Ooh and blue sky and sunshine. The closer I get to town the more children I see. I manage to get through town and out the other side before being collected.
Our first stop is about an hour from when I was collected – it’s in a very small village to look at a shop that sells woollen items as Sunny was keen to buy some. Thankfully it has a bathroom too! I didn’t need any woollen items so headed outside to take a look around and stretch my legs while I could. It was going to be another long day driving.
The drive is exactly the same as previous days – same same but nicer in warmer weather! We had to stop a number of times for construction, each time for at least 10 minutes. Sorted me just fine as it meant I could get out and walk about.
More driving driving driving until we arrive at Yutong La pass – thankfully today there is no rain like there was when we came through this so we get out, more the stretch the legs than anything else.
On we continue and continue and continue…..
At 2pm we finally reach the lunch spot, 5.5 hours since I was collected. A LOONG time. I went to take a photo after lunch and Ringo Star told me to walk up instead of down so that they would collect me. I got to where a digger thing was putting dirt onto a truck so decided to turn around and walk back down rather than walk past and potentially get dirt all over me or worse end up down the hill!
Back into the car we go. Around 2 hours after leaving we ask for a bathroom stop - we end up in the same place we had stopped at going to Bumthang. This time they were locked.....but thankfully there were renovated bathrooms near the restaurant that we could use. Great! Time to continue…..
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