At 10.30pm there is an announcement they are going to hand out the custom form and tourist card. We are informed we can’t make any mistakes on the tourist card and if we do we’ll need to pay for another one on the ground. No pressure! Thankfully the tourist card only has a couple questions and they are all easy ones - name / date of birth / nationality and passport number. I still take my time completing it to ensure no errors.
We land into Habana at 11.19pm (30 minutes earlier than scheduled) to basically a full moon. Amazing.
I’m in the third row of economy so am pretty much up and out when the doors open. On arrival at immigration there are two agents sitting in booths, only one is working. Another passenger and I decide to split up; I end up going back to where I started. No questions. I had my photo taken; passport stamped then was told to have a good day.
Around the corner from customs is the luggage belt and a LOT of people. Right now the fun is likely to begin - definitely on island time here!
As I’m standing here waiting for my bag it dawns on me that it could be one of the last bags that come out due to the fact I checked in prior to two hours before the flight. Fingers crossed I’m wrong.
I spy my bag, and it’s not the last. I briefly join the line to declare items then see a “green” channel. Bingo. I’m straight through and find my driver. I’d been told to exchange money at the airport so he takes me to a line to wait up. One way to kill jet lag is stay up late.....at this rate I won’t be at the casa before 1.30am (and it’s currently 12.18am).
The lady is friendly but speaks next to no English. She’s unable to locate my nationality (which is required for the transaction) in her system. After pointing to the name in my passport and writing it down I resort to asking the guy at the counter next to me if he speaks English. A little. Thankfully it’s more than enough to understand that my exchange clerk can’t find my country. I inform him it’s New Zealand and he translates. Bingo.
She counts each denomination twice for me. I put the wads in separate places throughout my handbag, there is far too much to fit into my wallet.
I have money - can travel. My driver is waiting for me again. After crossing the road he stops and gives me the hand signal. Ok, I’ll wait here.
While I’m waiting for the car a classic car turns up. Yes I’m in Cuba.
We depart the airport at 12.37am, let’s hope most people are at home sleeping so it’s a smooth ride to the Casa.
As we start to get close to civilization the number of people around increases; by the hand gestures they are all trying to get somewhere.
We pull into my street at 1.05am. I quickly realize I have no idea where I’m staying....given my driver doesn’t speak English this is going to be interesting. He stops outside what he believes is the correct apartment. This is so poor of me. In the end I get out my documents which Jorge (tour operator) had told us to print out and bring with me. Yes we are at the correct apartment. I notice there are stairs. This is going to be fun to take my suitcase six flights of stairs up. Thankfully it’s not needed. We open the main door and I walk up a couple of stairs. Now what.....the driver says something to me which again I have idea what it means. He then proceeds to use a translation on his phone which informs me to “wait here, someone is coming to get me”.
Literally a couple of seconds later the lift door opens and out comes a man who informs me his name is Mario. He takes me up to the 6th floor and into the apartment. Picture a two bedroom two bathroom apartment. I ask if my friend is sleeping; si si. Great! I’m in the right place. I already love the view from the balcony!
On entering the room Manda wakes up - we chat for a good 40 minutes then I have to go to sleep. Before that Manda advises we are having dinner “tonight” at a locals house (she met a family at one of the local bars a few hours earlier) - woo Hoo! How exciting.
The guests in the other room get up basically two hours after I had said goodnight and were chatting away in Spanish. A tad too noisy for the middle of the night.
I wake at 5am (on Sunday 24 March) but manage to go back to sleep to 6.30am. The city had come to a complete standstill in a few hours - not a squeak could be heard.
We wander out to the balcony where we are greeted with a cool breeze. It’s still pitch black.
Slowly night is turning into day. I throw yesterday’s clothes on and we head out of the apartment at 7.15am where we wander the streets for close to an hour. Sun rise is amazing!
Along our wandering we come across a couple of fruit and vegetable markets as well as a flower shop. We buy a watermelon, followed by a bunch of flowers for this evening. Both times we are informed of the cost in the local currency, Pesos, not the CUC (which is the currency for foreigners).
When we arrive back at the Casa Mario has breakfast all prepared for us. We will definitely get our fruit intake in Cuba!
Our guide Layanas arrives at 9am, she’s definitely not on Cuban time. I had literally just got out of the shower (which was better than expected). We chit chat and hand over the rest of the money for our time in Cuba.
Layanas then takes us out and about on the streets on La Habana.
I’m in need of a cold drink or snack, even though it’s not on our itinerary we stop at a local restaurant. Of course there is live music!
We continue wandering the streets; always something to look at.
I’m starting to get peckish and in need of getting out of the sun when Layanas advises it’s lunch time. Basically around the corner is Ivan Chef Justo restaurant. She says goodbye to us at the entrance, umm where are you going? We invite her to join us. I choose the tacos; Manda has a HUGE lamb shoulder and Layanas a fish meal. All was super tasty.
A couple of minutes around the corner is the Revolution Museum. The Revolution Museum is housed in what was the Presidential Palace (for the Cuban Presidents). Post the Cuban Revolution it became the Revolution Museum.
Half way around I basically hit a wall. Sleep is needed!! When we head downstairs the air helps a little bit to keep me awake. Man I hate jet lag!
It’s a short 5ish minute walk back to our Casa. On entering the Casa its doors and windows opened followed very quickly by shoes off. And relax!!
I even manage a wee nap on the sofa. Heaven. The shower helps to wake me up again.
We leave the apartment at 6.40pm knowing exactly where we are going. Love the “maps.me” app.
Darian (the son who Manda met last night) is waiting for us on the street. He informs us his Mother is sick so we cannot go to their house for dinner. What a shame but absolutely get it! We hand over the flowers and watermelon to him and a few minutes later he’s back with us on the street.
We wander a couple of blocks from Darian’s place to a bar / salsa club. As foreigners Manda and I pay the foreigner price (CUC 5) with Darian’s entrance being the locals price (CUC 2).
Darian manages to find us the last seats in the back of the room. Perfect! We sit while he goes to the bar to get us mojitos. WOW! One sip confirms it’s super strong!! Honestly if I have two I would be on the floor.
There is a live band that sings and plays while dancers come out to dance, in different dance styles. It’s totally awesome!!
We were one of perhaps only 6 groups of foreigners in the packed room. Amazing! There is no way we would have found this place on our own. The table to the right of us were dancing away and wanted to dance with us. Thanks but I’ll let Manda do the dancing.
A few more sips of my tasty mojito and I give in….
It seems like there is a break so we head outside where we finish our drinks. Darian tells us off for not watching our bags enough. Whoops – point taken.
We walk a couple of blocks over to a restaurant that is thankfully still serving.
Darian informs us I’m similar to the word “tasty”…..ummmm ok. It just got weird! A few minutes later he was telling us a story about cow’s milk and does horns with his fingers and makes a cows noise. I’m beyond tired so it takes all my energy not to laugh out loud.
Darian walks us to the Malecon (big promenade on the water) then we say goodbye. More photos before we are allowed to leave!
We continue to walk in the semi dark, if you didn’t know where you were going you wouldn’t want to be out wandering in the dark.
What an amazing first day in Cuba! Given the limited sleep last night it feels like it’s been a never ending day which is awesome. For now it’s time to sleep.
I wake just after 6am on Monday 25 March, seems like the city is starting to wake as well. In the end I get out of bed and head to the balcony where I’m greeted with stars. Wow!
When I’m finally able to put my brush through my hair I head out to the living area where breakfast has been prepared. I decide to sit on the balcony while Manda is getting ready. The lady then asks (in hand movements more than anything) if I want breakfast outside. Yes please!
Today we are off to Vinales for the day. Refer to the Vinales travel blog.
We pull up to our apartment at 6.30pm - nice to be out of the car after a long trip!
We have a quick change then walk along the Malecon to Hotel National (Hotel Nacional de Cuba to the locals). The sun still has some heat and it’s after 7.15pm.
We enjoy a mojito sitting in the garden overlooking the water. Everyone had warned us it would be very expensive but we decided when in Rome. I was taken back when the bill came and it was CUC 6 per mojito. A real (pleasant) shock as I was expecting at least CUC 15 per mojito.
Of course there was live music. A 3 man band was going from table to table playing. The table next to us said no; Manda wouldn’t let me say no……we were then asked what type of music we wanted to listen to – salsa, cha cha, traditional (fast or slow). Ummmm. I must admit it was nice sitting here looking out to the sea sipping on a mojito listening to live music. Before they went to the next table we were asked to tip. Thank goodness for lots of coins.
We decide to take a taxi back to Malecon then find somewhere to eat dinner. On entering the lobby the door man asks if we want a taxi, yes thanks. We are informed it’s CUC 10 - thanks but we’ll pass. We walk out to the front gate where we are offered CUC 15 then CUC 10 for a classic car. Again no thank you. We walk a few hundred meters then a lada taxi stops - we are told it will be CUC 5, done!
We had walked past a restaurant quite close to our Casa a few times so decide to go there first to look at the menu. Looks good and the majority of the mains are half the cost they were last night, we are in!!
Drinks then food are ordered. Both seem to take forever to arrive. Our table is right by the window / door which makes for great people watching.
Eventually our drinks arrived - I had thought perhaps they had run out of rum. There is a definite taste difference when using the white rum versus the golden rum. This one is the latter.
Just before the food comes I’m starting to fade and fade quickly. Sleep is needed!! Manda goes for the beef (which was delicious and very similar to the beef dish at lunchtime) and I opt for the pork. It was as dry as the pork at lunchtime. Such a shame! I end up eating with my eyes closed - never good!
On arrival back at the Casa our house guests are outside enjoying their last night in Habana. Manda joins them, its bed time for me. It’s hard to believe I’ve only been in Cuba for 48 hours; it seems so much longer!
I wake just before 6am on Tuesday 26 March, the city is starting to come alive for the day.
I’m just about to leave the apartment for a run when Mario and the lady from yesterday turn up. Wow it’s early for them (6.30am).
As I leave the apartment building there is a very long line for coffee at the apartment across from us. It definitely wasn’t “open” yesterday morning.
Given its still pitch dark I decide to walk to the Malecon before starting to run.
Once I’m back in the apartment it starts to lighten up a bit. I enjoy coffee on the balcony to cool down.
Once I’m back in the apartment it starts to lighten up a bit. I enjoy coffee on the balcony to cool down.
It’s so nice not rushing! Manda and I sit at breakfast (again too much food!!) and chat. Mario insists on taking a photo of me hanging out my washing (wholly smoke it’s HOT!) - they are finding it strange that I’m doing it and not the lady. No issue at all! Plus it’s actually nice to hang washing on a line.
Layanas collects us from our Casa, as we go downstairs we realise we have Fran again and his old classic car. Awesome!
It’s great to be out on the streets again.
We have a short wait at the Cigar factory office, not entirely sure why but that’s cool. When a Chinese tour group turns up it’s a bit disorganised. The staff then decides to split us up. As there are no English tour guides Layanas joins as and becomes the translator for the tour. Off the four of us go.
As we are walking up the stairs we are informed there are no cameras allowed on the floors.
There are 325 workers that work here, with 65% being woman. They produce between 25,000 - 30,000 cigars per day (depends on the brand they are rolling), and each worker must roll between 50 – 150 cigars per day (the number depending on the brand they are rolling).
On each row there are 7-8 workers. They work 7.30am and 4.30pm, although they can leave earlier if they have completed their daily allotment. Equally they can stay longer if they want to make more money.
At the first stall we stop at, the man rolls a cigar and gives it to us to try (then and there) then take home. Standing in a cigar factory in Cuba puffing on a cigar. Amazing!
We are informed in the olden days (not entirely sure when that was in Cuba….) there would be someone who sits on the stage at a desk with a microphone and would read to the workers. This is how they received their education.
I could have spent ALL day just standing and watching. Alas this isn’t possible.
We visit the shop next door, cigars and rum are purchased.
The open top classic car is waiting for us as we exit the shop. WOW!!
Next stop is Revolution Square (Plaza de la Revolucion), which is HUGE! According to Wikipedia it’s the 31st largest city square in the world and a place where political rallies and addresses to the people have taken place over the years, including one from Pope John Paul II when he visited in 1998.
Located in and around the Square is Jose Marti Memorial, The National Library and many government ministries.
We get an escape from the sun by going into the Jose Marti Memorial, a 109 meter tower which offers spectacular 360 views of La Habana. We have a lift attendant to assist us in getting to the top.
As we make it to the car park (and try to locate our car) the heavens well and truly open! WOW! Time for another run, this time to the closest building which has a covered balcony area.
When the rain eases we make a run for the car. No longer an open top tour of Habana but still very cool.
Manda’s cousin had recommended visiting Necropolis de Cristobal Colon, which is Habana’s main cemetery. We have this afternoon free (as we stripped back the tour) and had thought we may visit but I think shopping and wandering streets will win. Instead we stop at the main gates as we drive by. It’s super impressive! Yes I appreciate that’s very odd to say for a cemetery.
Necropolis de Cristobal Colon, founded in 1876, is noted for its many very elaborate sculpted memorials. Even standing where we are you can easily see that!
When we return to the car we are open top again. Perfect. As we pull out onto the road we get splashed by a car going by. Too funny. The drainage is not able to cope with the amount of water that fell from the sky.
We continue to the cruise the streets, this time into the more affluent areas of Habana.
The spots of rain start to increase, time we pulled over and had the top added back on again. While the driver is doing that we have a quick walk into the Parque Almendares (a local park).
The lush vegetation and quietness makes me feel like we are in a completely different city!
Basically one minute down the road the clouds clear and the sun is out again. Right time to find a spot to pull over and reverse the procedure the driver had just completed.
Top down we continue cruising the streets. It’s nice with the breeze but when we stop at the lights the heat hits us.
We pull over to pick up some beer. Not such an easy task (we tried and failed yesterday in Vinales). No beer (they only had foreign beer) in the first place we entered, instead we purchase a crazy cheap bottle of water. We are definitely in the suburbs now. We wander down to a few stores where we purchase a can of coke and lemonade (local variety). Again cheaper than what we have been paying.
We cruise along with the water to our left, ending up on the Malecon which is well known to us now.
We say goodbye to our driver at the outskirts of the pedestrian area of Old Habana. First thing is filling our water bottles and sculling!
Layanas walks us to our restaurant and sits and chats for a couple of minutes before she leaves us. It’s been a great but full on couple of days with her.
Lunch is enjoyed sitting on a covered terrace while listening to a 3 man band. The singer has an amazing voice. This is the life!
I’m so glad we cancelled our dinner reservation for tonight - spending about USD 120 for lunch and dinner is just too much! Plus the amount of food is enough for a small family.
We wander the streets towards Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market.
The building is stunning! We wander down a number of rows, each stall basically selling the same items as their neighbours – clothing, souvenirs, paintings and the list goes on.
It takes me forever to decide on a fridge magnet....it’s really not that hard!
We decide to wander back along different streets – at times feeling like we are the only foreigners on the street with the locals. The run-down buildings are still impressive. We locate a “shop” selling local beer (bingo!), beer is purchased.
We decide to stop off for a cold drink (the local lemonade) - it’s definitely needed today!
Feeling slightly cooler we wander back to the apartment.
We have a couple of hours chilling at the apartment before we decide to venture out again. We weren’t hungry so decided to head out to get some local chips then return to the apartment to have the beers we had brought earlier.
We decided to go the place we had dinner at last night to get the chips/fries, on asking we were told the fryer is broken so we went around the corner to Gastropol and ordered a beer. So lovely sitting here on the Malecon watching the world go by.
One of the waiters takes an intense likening to Manda. So much so that each time he walks by he has to turn around to check her out. It’s so amusing! It’s like I’m not even sitting here. He tries numerous times to get her to go out with him; no matter how many times she tells him no and that she has a spouse he continues. We have a red rose delivered to the table. Then a few minutes later his phone number. Ooh dear.
We decide one drink is more than enough here. We take the long way home (to ensure no one is watching....).
As we are about to reach our apartment I hear a noise and turn around. It’s one of the ladies from a restaurant we had stopped at a few minutes earlier. In the end we establish they are able to assist us so we walk back to the restaurant with her.
We definitely have the silver service here; the local chips are not on their menu but they said they’ll make it for us. Sitting here waiting we both start to fade. Definitely no more beer tonight. Being out in the sun and heat all day has taken its toll.
So worth the wait for the chips! A nice snack, sitting out on the balcony, to end another amazing day.
We have a couple of hours relaxing, showering, washing and packing. Tomorrow we are off to Playa Larga (for one night).
Wednesday 27 March I wake far too early! It had been another noisy night. After a while I decide to just get out of bed. The city is slowly coming to life. The “coffee shop” opposite the apartment is already open for business and it’s not quite 6am.
Breakfast is enjoyed on the balcony overlooking the sea and fort.
La Habana you have been amazing!! The highlights by far were the Cigar Factory and the night out with Darian.
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