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6 July 2017

Mekong Delta and Saigon, Vietnam – 24-26 December 2016

Christmas Eve Eve has finally arrived - this means it's off to the airport I go!

IFC in-town check-in is beyond crazy so off to Kowloon I head. Great to have two options! I've never seen the line to buy tickets so long before. I definitely expected people to be traveling today but not this many! Let's hope the airport isn't as bad when I head there in a few hours.

Best decision today so far - there is no one in the line at Kowloon in-town check in; I'm all checked in and on my way (to work....) in under 3 minutes.

I leave work at 2pm even though the flights not to 4.50pm, better to be in the lounge than at my desk!

As the doors close and announce Tsing Yi is the next stop I remember I've left all of my travel documentation in the office. Major buggar!! Time to call someone who I'll know will still be in the office. I get off at Tsing Yi station, the staff are lovely and let me out without a ticket. The same applies when I enter to head back to Kowloon station. Let's hope it's that easy when I get back to Kowloon station! There is a train right there which is awesome - talk about timing!

Things at Kowloon station don't go as smoothly - I'm told the only option is to go to IFC (one stop in the opposite direction) then all the way to the airport. A pain but hey ho it's needed as I need the documentation! It's strange arriving at IFC when everyone gets off except me, time to move seats so that I'm sitting forwards. Right take 2 on getting to the airport begins.

Finally I arrive at the airport - every man, dog and Harry is here! I knew there would be lots of people around but definitely not this many! Time to pick up the pace to the security line. Wow surprisingly it's actually pretty empty, not what I was expecting at all. A pleasant end to the long trip to the airport.

The immigration line definitely reflects what's going on outside, thank goodness for an HK ID!! I'm through within minutes - Saigon, Vietnam here I come! But first it's the Qantas lounge.

It's a very different exit from the lounge than this time last year.....no running through the airport with a trolley of bags trying to get to the right gate!

We depart a good 20 minutes late from the gate, fingers crossed there is no hold up when we get to the runway.

On arrival into Saigon it's a hop, step and a jump up immigration - result. That is until I see the long long lines. Let's hope the APEC line goes fast. About 10 minutes in the line the immigration officer on my line signals a stop to the line. Great, not! A whole lot of uniformed staff come out, the officers put their hats on then bow - no thanks we want service. New officer arrives, plays around with his hat then hair before we start again. I'm so close to Vietnam soil yet so far away!

After a short wait for my bag I'm off - hello heat I've missed you!!! As a "local" I head straight out to the taxi rank where I'm the only person. As we pull away from the terminal I'm in my happy place - hello Saigon, I've missed you!! It's like I was here last week, the craziness of the motorbikes (I'll be on one tomorrow!) and cars and more and more motorbikes going along with their daily life. Aah this is bliss.

I'm definitely not short on things to look at on my trip to the hotel. I've chosen to stay at a new hotel this trip so it's a slightly different route.

I drop my bags in my room (extremely nice with a great view of the river) before heading downstairs for a drink and bite to eat.

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Christmas Eve (Saturday) I'm woken before 5am with the toot toot sounds of the motorbikes - I'll be down there with them in a few hours, for now it's more sleep!

My guide Mr Cong is collecting me at 8am - not sure why I do this to myself on holiday! Aah yes for this trip it's to get out of the city before the world gets up.....but looking out the window half the world seems to be already up and on the roads.

A random man comes up to me about 8.10am, off I go! Funny how in a foreign county you just do that. He tells me he will take me to pick a motorbike - helmet on and off we go. Well that's once I'm managed to get myself up 17 stories to get onto his bike!
Love being back on a bike again - I'm going to get whiplash trying to looking at everything at the same time!

On arrival I'm asked if I want an automatic bike - ummm absolutely, surely there is no other option!! They get me set up and make me drive down the road to practice. Bloody hell. The heart rate is up and I haven't even started. I ask my guide if he can block the cars and bikes for me, he just laughs......I was being 100% serious but he clearly doesn't think so. Deep breath in.
On return I'm excited - I made it the 50 meters, sure I can ride 6 hours today! Slow and steady is the key.

Our first stop, no more than 3 minutes’ drive from where we started we stop for petrol. Getting my bike to stop, me off and the stand-up takes a while and entertains the locals.

Getting out of Saigon city is FULL ON, there are bikes for Africa everywhere!!!! I’m trying to focus on where I’m going and who’s around me but so badly want to be looking at the buildings. Must concentrate.

At one of traffic stops I pull up next to my guide and ask where my horn is. Right I'm set now! Watch out Vietnam!

We drive pass a number of small markets on the side of the road; I really want to stop but if I stopped everywhere we wouldn't make it outside of Saigon today!!

No traffic lights around so I don't have the opportunity to tell Mr Cong (not sure now if that's his name....) I need the bathroom. Hopefully soon we'll stop.

A few minutes later he slows down and we pull into a "coffee shop". After parking my bike and taking my helmet off all of the locals look at me and chat to my guide. Absolutely NO idea what they are saying but I'm sure it's something about me driving myself and being alone.

Aah Vietnamese coffee, this is the life! It's really hot so I elect to have iced black......first coffee in a good two and half months so let's hope I sleep tonight!

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We continue our journey - so much to look at! But one needs to be concentrating on the roads rather than what's around me!!!

My guide seems to know when my right hand is starting to hurt - within minutes of me thinking I need to give it a break he pulls over at a pagoda. We are the only ones here. I have a wander around then its back onto the road again we go.

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After a while we pull off the highway and drive to the river; I'm thinking we'll be getting on a boat here but they look small!! The boat lady and my guide have a discussion and decide its best we go via the main road as the "roads" on the other side are very narrow and they think I might fall in. Yes thanks the main road sounds good. Not keen on falling in the water with my bike!
Man alive it's hot!! I enjoy watching the baby roosters eat while standing on the shade.

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On the road it doesn't feel as hot given we are moving. Thank goodness I put sun screen on this morning.

Time to get back onto the bike - I'm really enjoying this and thinking I might need to go and get my motorbike license so that I can do this more often. Perhaps bike from north to south.....

Within 10 minutes of being back “on the road again” (yes you can join in on the song...) my guide pulls over to the side. There is at least one hundred incense bunches drying on the side of the road.

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Just down the road we stop again where rice crackers are drying. My guides favourite rice cracker is here so he buys one – coconut flavoured. Actually quite tasty!

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Back onto the road we head. We drive down a narrow lane, in between paddy fields. Amazing sight and thankfully not busy motorbike traffic so I can take in my surroundings.

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We stop for lunch just after 1pm; my hands are starting to get a bit sore so the timing was great!! In typical Vietnamese style there is packing for your bike under cover - brilliant, no more hot be-hind!

Have I mentioned how hot it is??! I know I've been hanging out for the heat but this is something else. Thankfully I'll be by a pool in a couple of days so can be jumping in and out as I please :)

For lunch we have a beef noodle soup dish; the owners are also farmers and I'm told they use the beef for their dishes. Seems crazy to have hot food when it's so hot, but after adding in the herbs I taste it and forget for a moment it's hot. Yum!

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We spend the afternoon cruising along the highway (well back roads but highway sounds better!); I'm absolutely loving being out here - it's so far removed from day to day life in Hong Kong.

Mid-afternoon we pull into a cemetery, more to get out of the sun that anything I believe. It's time to stretch my legs and hands! After having a wander around the grounds we notice a digger moving mud from one place to another; this is to create a wall so that they can build a lake. Once finished will be quite picturesque with the paddy fields behind it.

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Time for coffee, which I'm told is very good in this area - back onto the bikes for a couple of minutes. It's so peaceful sitting here surrounded by water listening to the birds and motorbikes. I could happily spend an afternoon here with a book, but alas that isn't the plan so on we go.

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We come across another market on the side of the road - time for me to go exploring. While it's only small it's nice and friendly. Not only is fruit, veges, meat, seafood and frogs sold but also some bras and underwear. I spy a man with at least 10 ducks in sacks on his bike. A lady right next to our bike is stacking things onto a tray. My guide asks what they are - fried sticky rice with chicken in the middle. Sounds delicious and tastes even better!

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Back onto the road we head. After about an hour we come to the outskirts of a town, eeks traffic is picking up! The sun is starting to drop too so it makes for some interesting biking. We end up stopping for a good 10 minutes to see if the traffic slows down at all. Nope! My guide announces we are going to head out across the traffic - yeah I don't think so. Instead I walk and he takes my motorbike across. After he picks up his bike we are set and off again.

Driving along and over the Mekong River as the sun is setting is amazing! We stop on the bridge to take in the sunset.

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I'm starting to get anguish as the sun has set, time to press on. On exiting the bridge my guide indicates left....he is having a laugh. There is traffic for Africa coming towards us. And of course he goes straight away. Yeah no thanks, I hang out in the middle of the road until the cars and trucks pass. Bloody hell!!! Thankfully we are onto country roads now.....but it's so close to dark it's not funny. Fingers crossed we aren't too far from the homestay.

We pull off the road for my guide to call for instructions. I work out how to put my light on then we're off with a hiss and a roar.

Really not keen on biking in the dark......my horn is used on more than one occasion (no longer a thrill to use it). After what seems like ages we turn off the road onto a small path like road. Shit this is going to be interesting; basically dark now it's slow going for me which makes it that much harder. My guide calls back a few times to tell me to be careful. Perhaps if we came in the day light it would have been aok!! Finally we arrive - my guide drives over a small bridge, I debate what to do and decide to go for it. A tad too slowly so it's like I'm pushing my bike with my feet! At the same time the owner comes out to greet us and tells me to just leave the bike and he'll get it. I'VE MADE IT! What an awesome day. For me it's been about the journey, not the end destination. As I give my bike to the owner my guide announces the reason we did this in the dark is that I would have freaked out in the daylight.....lovely!

The homestay is surrounded by water, so soothing. I'm shown to my room - ye ha a flashing WC (it's the small things!); shower time!

A small snap shot of what I've seen today – lots of roosters at the side of the road under chicken wire; a turkey hanging out with a rooster (perhaps someone's dinner tomorrow??!); people planting rice and working the rice paddies; school children (push) biking home from school; at least 20 geese on the back of a motorbike (I wanted to follow them); 2 baby goats on the back of a motorbike; countless bikes with 4 people on them. More things on a motorbike where at least 10 ducks in sacks; Father Christmas with a big bag; children with Santa hats on; a gas bottle; 2 huge pigs. On the “country” lanes we passed countless weddings (playing ridiculously LOUD music).

Wow a (cold) shower does wanders to oneself! I can feel I have a wee bit of colour from today.....I was definitely the only person who was on a bike that wanted to get colour! My guide was dressed like he was off to see the snow in Russia! So interesting how Asian's want to be white and westerners want to be tanned.

I have sometime before I meet my guide for dinner; one second on the beds confirms what I had expected - I'm no longer in Kansas City anymore Dorothy! Thankfully it's just one night before I return back to the super comfortable Le Meridian bed.

Dinner is taken sitting outside by the pond. Other than hearing the music from a wedding..... in Saigon (yes it's really loud), it's nice and chilled. This really is the life.

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My guide tells me we drove 110 km's today - pretty good for a new kid on the bike!

Christmas Day (Sunday) the roosters wake me just before 6am. Merry Christmas from Ban Tre Vietnam. It had been a fairly on/off night of sleep - sleeping on a plank of wood and having a sawmill of a fan (actually I have no idea how a sawmill sounds but I'm pretty sure it would be loud!) were the reasons why. If it hadn't been so warm during the day I would have switched the sawmill off. One small win was no mozzie bites.....well that I'm aware of. I believe it's my first night sleeping under a mozzie tent.

I decide to get up and go and see if there is a sun rise; it's so nice and peaceful outside (well other than the roosters). Unfortunately no sunrise - but I do get a view of the gardens below.

I chat to the owner briefly then head off for a walk. There are dogs barking everywhere so I'm not sure how far I'll get......

On return to the homestay the owner gives me a fruit and vege tour of his place; I love how he is so self-sufficient!

We enjoy breakfast in the same spot that we had dinner last night. So tranquil. I'd been told we would be leaving at 8am but that didn't quite happen.

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My guide takes my motorbike over the wee bridge then we’ll off! It’s a slow and steady ride back to the main road, then the pace increases.

I see so many roosters hanging out in their chicken wire cages on the side of the road. Ooh for a photo, but I’m too late.
We come out the main road and instead of going through the intersection and over the bridge we turn left and head down another local road.

While I slow down to sort out my hand gripe my guide drives on then returns back past me, clearly trying to work out where we are going. We pull into what I think is someone’s house and park our parks then walk through to a tourist market.

It’s still early days so there is next to no-one around which is lovely. We look at how coconut lollies are made, rather fascinating.

A lady comes back to collect us and takes us to a boat where we are 2 of 8 people; it’s nice to be back on the Mekong again. On arrival at the island we come across people fishing (in what I believe is a man-made pond), and throwing them back if they were too small. We wander around the premise which is very tranquil. There was a new religion, similar to Buddhist, that was set up here a number of years ago. Loved seeing the tiles (some have come from China) on one of the statues. As we were leaving I noticed a number of people standing around so wandered over…they are looking at a number of crocodile’s trying to get 2 pieces of meat off a fishing rod. Odd.

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On arrival back to the “mainland” we are taken to a Vietnamese music show which provides us with local fruits to enjoy while listening. Definitely very touristy!

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Time to move on so we head back towards where we dropped off our bikes to meet up with small row boats where we get on and go up the river a bit before returning. Kind of pointless but hey ho (aah the one day of the year that this saying "ho" really works!).

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We return to our bikes and within 300 meters of being on the road again my guide pulls over. I follow suit and am asked to move closer to his bike. It's some kind of repair shop but I have no idea what's going on. Within seconds the owner drags a large hose over and bobs your uncle I'm given air in my front tire. The whole transaction took less than 3 minutes. Watch our Vietnam I have air to fly!

Time to get back onto the roads.

We have a few slowdowns / stops to ask for directions - so glad it's not me having to deal with them! - before we stop to get petrol.

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After a while my guide signals to turn left, left it is. We pull into a parking space and I'm asked where my ticket is - whoops didn't realize I was supposed to get one when I entered. The guard obviously couldn't speak English and as I speak zero Vietnamese my guide heads back to get one. Thanks! On return he announces we are off to a snake farm - ummm I THINK NOT!!! That is very quickly vetoed!!! Instead we enjoy an iced coffee.

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Back into our bikes we go, good riddance snake farm we are heading off to visit the Buddha. It’s starting to spit – yikes! Not sure what exactly this means other than water coming from the sky and one SADJ being even more worried.

IMG_8928Bikes are parked, no issue if there isn’t any parking space….definitely one major point to the motorbike! I wander around the grounds. The Buddha's are huge! But perhaps that’s because I’m quite close to them. The reflections into the pond are amazing!

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It’s still spitting when we get onto our bikes, if only I had a poncho. For next time.

Some of the roads are very wet so it’s slow going, totally suits me as the traffic is mental!! It's the constant toot toot of the massive trucks that has me saying the F word over and over and over again!!

My guide starts to slow down and seems to be looking for something, what I have no idea. After what seems like 10 minutes he pulls over and motions for me to do the same. Lunch time I’m told.

Christmas Day lunch is spent at a very local place that serves food….right at a very loud intersection!! Makes for some interesting watching. Lunch is roast pork on rice, rather tasty I think.

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Back onto our bikes we head, this time just for about 1 km. Enough for my F word song to begin again! A cold drink is ordered and into the hammocks we go, a tad worrying as I'm not sure I'll get out and we need to drive back to Saigon. It's so relaxing, well that's if you ignore the constant noise of the traffic.

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I hassle us out as I'm not keen on driving in the dark. My guide is worried about the rain in Saigon so isn't as keen to leave as I am.

We've been driving for a while now and my guide motions me to pull over. This is SO needed! I've driven through flood waters; been tooted at far too many times: used the F word for each word I've spoken; been close to tears; splashed more times than I care to remember (my right foot is completely soaked and yelled at someone (not exactly helpful when they don't speak English)! I wonder how much a helicopter would cost to come and collect me......to say this is bloody horrible is a complete understatement!

He quickly takes my helmet off and hugs me - heart is beating ninety to the dozen!

Within seconds of us stopping there is an accident; my first one I've seen since being the county (pretty good I think!). A motorbike slides in front of a red SUV type car. It immediately stops, as does the white sedan behind it and all occupants jump out and run (actually sprint) to the motorbike man and start to beat him up. Again the F word - seriously WTF is going on. Now I'm even more freaking out. Traffic has come to a standstill as everyone man, dog and Harry (and yes there are dogs on bikes) wants to check out what's going on. My guide moves our bikes off the road and instructs me to "stay here". Ooh let me assure you the only place I'll be going is up when the helicopter arrives.

The traffic police arrive but seem to do next to nothing. One of the cars drives off but leaves the motorbike there. I'm so surprised no-one moves it and mention that to my guide. He tells me if they do that person will then need to go to the police station to give a statement so no-one ever does that.

We finally agree it's time to move on. Eeks alive! I can do this I can do this is on repeat in my head, along with the F word. I'm seriously questioning my thought process of doing this....so the opposite of yesterday - I love this, I'm going to go and get my motorbike license. Yeah let's see.

When we set off yesterday I was told if I needed my guide I was to flash my lights at him. Yes well that's all well and good but I have no idea how to do that. Well that's to this afternoon....clearly done on accident. He motions me to pull over, I'm wondering what's wrong when he asks me the same thing. Whoops, anyway lights are put on and on we go.

Day is turning into night and I'm not excited by that one little bit. As much as I'd like to stay here longer I know it's just putting off what I need to do - turn bike on, move away from the curb and keep driving....

At a light stop I'm told we are going to go around the roundabout; I stare at him like he has 5 heads. I'm sorry what???! And then the lights go green.

My toot toot is used far too many times for my likening. I know everyone uses it 24/7 it but I feel like I only use it in an "emergency". I do what I've been "telling" everyone else not to go, go in the inside, and end up touching the boy who's got off the bike. I'm mad!! I did my toot toot why the heck didn't you listen??! I pull over immediately and let out a scream - more of what could have happened if the pushed me. Man this is scary!!!

Deep breaths in and out, in and out, in and out. Where on earth is that helicopter??!

The closer we get to Saigon city the heavier the traffic gets. I honestly believe a news bulletin was put to tell everyone to get out onto the roads.

After I drive through what feels like the millionth intersection with cars and motorbikes going in all directions my guide motions me to pull over. I'm told I need a break.....he has that right and I know for a fact so does he! He points me inside to look at the Christmas trees - a touch of Christmas on this crazy day. 

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Time to continue on in the direction of Saigon city centre. It’s proper dark now which of course makes driving ooh so much better….NOT. My guide is trying to watch where he is going as well as watching me at the same time, not an easy task. At one intersection we stop at I yell at someone who pulls in front of me and makes me nearly fall. NOT HAPPY! There is traffic everywhere.

My delightfully Guide got lost so (is he trying to kill me?!), after asking for directions I'm told we need to cross the road and drive up the wrong side of the road. Now while that sounds easy let me just remind us all I'm in Vietnam and it's not easy!! I make him take my bike across the street, then it's all good. We are off again

It's crazy, too much for me so at the lights I ask how much longer to go as I'm not sure how much more I can take. I'm told just a few more minutes, yep I can do this!

At one intersection I swear there is 17 million people, each going in a different direction to everyone else. I let out an "aah" and try to drive though like everyone else. Man alive this is hard! There is a bike behind me who is clearly in a hurry as he nudges me - on no you didn't! I have awful thoughts that go through my mind, thankfully the keep calm and keep driving thought wins.

We drive a few minutes then I'm motioned to pull over. My guide tells me the street on the left we just passed is the street we need to go down, that means driving up a bit then turning around. He decides that isn't going to happen so parks his bike, tells me to stand with it then takes mine back to the bike place where we collected it yesterday. Wow that seems like it was sooo long again! Bye bye bike - right now I'm stoked but I'm sure in time I'll be sad we didn't end on better terms. For now my hands can have a break!

After a few minutes my guide returns, so lovely to see a familiar face in the sea of millions!! I "jump" (haha) onto his bike and we join the sea of millions motor biking around. My guides bike is higher than mine so I have a feeling I might be closing my eyes the whole time. I would have thought being a passenger would have been less stressful but not for me.

Finally the hotel is in sight - I'm usually not one who is excited when something great is over but boy am I happy this is. Driving in Saigon is crazy stressful.....I'm surprised I lasted as long as I did! Didn't help that my guide got lost a few times so we drove further than needed. I thank him for the millionth time then take my one dry foot one soaking wet foot inside to check-in (let's hope they don't turn me away). Shower, food, alcohol and washing is needed.....just not sure about the order!

I actually can't believe I drove, yes that's right I drove, in the crazy crazy crazy Saigon traffic! Absolutely terrifying and awesome all the same time.

Alcohol wins first prize - my heart is still beating ninety to the dozen from the past few hours. Man alive it's stressful driving in Vietnam!

Saketini ordered to celebrate Christmas - Merry Christmas!

What I've seen today - tiny (and I mean tiny) cooked chickens being sold at the side of the road; far too many man reliving themselves at the side of the road; crazy number of trucks and busses behind me!!; a large number of 5 people on a bike; terrible drainage which mean half of the Mekong ended up on my clothes and in my shoes and the endless smiles of my guide. But overall what an awesome day.....I say from the luxury of my hotel overlooking the Mekong.

Boxing Day (Monday) I wake after a mini sleep in, so nice not having to be rushing to get up! I have an extremely relaxing morning - recovery time after yesterday's extremely stressful ride!

I had been given a 2pm check out time yesterday when I checked in, after paying the bill I head to the pool (which is overlooking the Mekong). One foot in I quickly realize it's cold....I manage to get in, just. Perhaps swimming will need to wait to tomorrow.

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