Oslo, Norway – 24-27 October 2023

We pull into Oslo Central Station at 11.15am. The 5-hour train trip (from Stockholm) really did pass quite quickly.

On exiting Oslo Central Station the first thing I notice is the huge bronze Tiger, followed very quickly by a whole lot of what I call Romanian Beggers. Buggar!

Before leaving the train I had researched how to get to the hotel, it’s an easy 10 ish minute walk. As expected my room isn’t ready when I arrive. I chat to the ladies and sort my hand luggage out. Feeling warm and refreshed it’s time to go out exploring.

I head towards the water to the Oslo Opera House.

The Oslo Opera House is the home of the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet, and the national opera hour in Norway. Google informs me construction started in 2003 and finished in 2007.  The main auditorium seats 1,364, so it’s not a small place!! It’s an impressive looking building and would look even more impressive if it had a blue-sky background. Not today.

I walk up to the top, in places it’s step and not all level. The views of Oslo and the Fjord are amazing.

I wander towards the train station and up Karl Johans gate, the pedestrianised street, where I see the Romanian beggers again…..this time I try to look like I know what I’m doing!

I’m feeling hungry but zero idea what I feel like so I keep wandering.

 

As I’m walking into the Oslo Cathedral a whole lot of school children waving flags are leaving. I happily enjoy the warmth waiting for them to leave.

The mosaics on the ceiling are amazing.

 

 

I found a local bakery that has seats. Win win! Ham and cheese baguette it is. It’s nice to sit and people watch.

 

 

I walk back into the hotel at 2.40pm, it’s starting to get cold with the wind. I have around 15 minutes before my room is ready. Everything is done over the app, must ensure my phone always has enough battery!!! Otherwise I’ll be locked out of the hotel and my room.

I have a good hour in the room relaxing, warming up, unpacking and sorting out my plans for the next couple of days. I’ve arranged a walking tour at 10am tomorrow morning, no rest for the wicked! Need to book a boat trip as well.

A short walk from the hotel is Akershus festning, a Fortress / Castle. I decide to head there before heading to Aker Brygge (an area in Oslo) for dinner.

On arrival at Akershus festning I’m definitely not the only person who has the same idea. Akershus festning is a medieval castle that sits on the Oslo harbourfront. It was built to provide the royals with a residence in the City.

 

It's starting to get cold, time to head to Aker Brygge. Aker Brygge is an area in Oslo on the waterfront, where ferries depart from, locals and tourists come to eat / drink and where people live. The Nobel Peace Center and the Museum of Modern Art are also housed in Aker Brygge.

 

I open the door at Rorbua to feel heat, heavenly compared to the cold wind outside. Before leaving the hotel I had researched a local place and this place has great reviews.

Reviewing the menu I immediately decide whale and reindeer are out. Ooh my!

I ask the waitress for her choice between the mussels and fish soup. As soon as she says the mussels are pre-prepared I’m sold on the fish soup! Next up is beer. Of course it must be Norwegian.

The beer and soup are a great end to a loooong but great day.

 

There are quite a few people around on the walk back to the hotel which makes me feel a better. The wind makes it feel so cold though so it’s a fast walk!

I wake just after 7am on Wednesday 25 October. My weather app tells me it’s 1 degree but feels like -3 degrees. Ooh my!!

The coffee at breakfast wasn’t exactly cutting it so before leaving the hotel I researched a coffee place I can stop at on the way to the walk.

Wholly smoke and bottles of rum it’s SOOOOO COLD! The coldest so far this trip. I’m so glad I have on so many layers. Hat and gloves go on immediately.

 

It's confusing trying to pay here, well for the non-local! You as the customer needs to input the amount to pay before giving your credit card.  Finally, Flat White is ordered, I'm ready to face the day. 

There is already a crowd at the bronze tiger, the meeting place for the walk, when I arrive. After a few minutes waiting we set off.  

It's an interesting 1.5 hour walk - some of the places I'd seen yesterday on my wanderings so it was good to hear all about them. 

 

 

The guide provides tips along the way of places to visit. Two I’ll definitely be taking up.

Towards the end of the walk I get chatting to a couple from England. We decide to head to Radhuset (City Hall) when the walk is over.

It gets very awkward at the end of the walk - the guide wants to take a photo of everyone then talks about the cost. Ummm it’s a free walk. So confusing.

On arrival at Radhuset (City Hall) Nindu, Joel and I join the line outside, thank goodness we are sheltered a bit as the wind is super cold. To enter everything needs to go through security so that means removing all hats, gloves and jackets. I leave it to the last possible moment then move super quickly.

The City Hall which opened in 1950 is open to locals and tourists alike.  It’s house’s the city council and tower city administrations.  Locals can also get married in one of the rooms. It is also the host of the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony.  Prior to opening, 8 painters were hired to decorate the large indoor space.

 

 

 

Jacket, hat and gloves go just before we leave to head outside again. We stop for a quick bite to eat, I was still full from breakfast so have a sparkling water.

Our tour guide has advised the changing of the guards happen daily at 1.30pm. Time to get moving! There appears to be more people around today than yesterday.

Once all the guards have left we head to the solo guard for photos and a few questions. He informs us that they are on guard three times a day for 2 hours each time.

We go our separate ways. I stop along the way, back to the hotel, taking photos.

 

 

 

I walk back into the hotel 5 hours after leaving this morning - I need to thaw out then warm up again. It’s been a while since I’ve been this cold.

Late afternoon I leave the hotel and walk towards the new library. It’s beyond cold! The guide this morning mentioned a bridge and walkway by a river a couple of blocks from the library so I head there.

Unfortunately I’m unable to unlock my phone nor take photos from my phone with my gloves on. Must rethink this for my next winter trip….if I ever have one!

Time to warm up again! I pick up the pace to the library.

Now I appreciate it’s unusual to visit a library on one’s travel, however this was recommended to me.  As it’s indoors I thought why not, a good opportunity to be inside and warm again. The new building opened in 2020 and is huge!!!!!!

I’m amazed at how many different areas there are.  Some you can speak, others you can.  Some areas you can eat and drink, others are strictly off limits.  I don’t recall any other library I’ve been too being able to eat and drink.  How the times have changed….. I find a seat and watch the world below go by.

 

5.45pm I make my way over to the MUNCH museum. At one point I hear a splash, looking around I see one person in the fjord and two others about to jump in the fjord. So brave! Definitely not for me.

 

Edward Munch was a Norwegian painter – one of his most famous paintings was The Scream. 

I’m not really a museum person but being able to be somewhere warm indoors sold me.  Ooh and the fact that someone from the walking tour said it’s free after 6pm today.

I make my way to the top floor and make my way down stopping at each floor. Some are quicker than others. It’s not really my scene. On the 4th floor is where the “main” event is The Scream. It’s impressive!

Food is needed and quickly. Must eat more tomorrow during the day. I’d walked by a couple of places earlier that looked good. One, Mamma’s Pizza, was also highly recommended. Usually I like to eat local wherever I am but tonight I’m going to try to get in. I’d been told that they are often full and send you away to wait for a table. Fingers crossed.

There are quite a few people out and about and thankfully feels a tad warmer than earlier.

 

I get a table (at Mamma's Pizza) basically straight away. Decision made!

Red wine and pizza are ordered.

It hits the spot!!

Thursday 26 October I wake just after 7.30am. My weather app is telling me it feels like -3 degrees….I’ll be staying inside for a bit!!

It’s a lot quieter this morning at breakfast which is nice! I had made coffee in the room as the filter coffee yesterday was like drinking dish water….! Hopefully there is no issues with me having it down here. Time will tell.  I have the same breakfast as yesterday. 

Before leaving the hotel I purchase a 24 hour travel pass - super easy. My plan is to take a boat trip at 12noon.

Walking along the water in the sun (woo hoo!) it doesn’t feel as cold as yesterday - the lack of wind, and of course the sun, certainly helps.

 

First stop is coffee. I had researched places earlier and this one was the only one in this area. It’s right next door to where I ate dinner the first night so no need for a map.

 

The ferry departs bang on 12noon - Oslo Fjord here I come. I decide to remain on and do the full loop. Will look to go somewhere else later or tomorrow morning and get off.

 

 

 

Back on terre ferme I head to the Tram stop. Love a tram city!!

I end up taking the long way to Frogner Park which is great as it stretches my legs. The autumn colours are so beautiful.

Frogner Park (Frognerparken) is Oslo’s largest park which is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  According to Wikipedia it’s 110 acres and is the most visited tourist attraction in Norway.  I’m shocked.  Unsure how they work this out…..but hey ho.

Finally I reach the Vigeland part.  Not exactly sure what I was expecting, but it's interesting. 

Vigeland is the sculpture park within Frogner Park. There are more than 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland – in bronze, granite and cast iron.  Some are definitely more famous than others.

 

 

 

I hadn’t researched how to get back to the city / my hotel so on exiting the park I follow the tram lines. Either way I’ll be fine.

At the first stop there is tape over the kiosk so I don’t even bother going to look. I wait a few minutes at the next stop before deciding to just walk. It’s nice to see more of Oslo, and where the locals live.

As I walk further away from where I started it becomes apparent that there are no trams. At the next stop I look around to see if there is any notice advising no trams. Bingo! I can get a tram in 3 more stops.

 

When I reach the Solli tram station there are many people around. I have a couple of minutes wait before I spy a tram coming towards me. Ye ha!

After a good half an hour back in the room it’s time to go out exploring again. Hard to believe this time tomorrow I’ll be at the airport waiting for my flight back to London.

The lady at the hotel had recommended Ekebergparken Sculpture Park, telling me it was a relatively new sculpture park. Wikipedia informs me it was inaugurated in September 2013. So not new new.

I take the tram then bus to one of the entrances of Ekebergparken. The bus was packed! Half way up I released why, the tram tracks are being repaired. Everyone else got off the bus and onto another tram. Once the tram departed, I was free to cross over the tracks and begin exploring Ekebergparken.

Ekebergparken Sculpture Park, around 25 acres, is a national heritage park and sculpture park which panoramic views over Oslo. I hope my photos do it the justice it deserves.  Presently there are 31 sculptures scattered around the park.  I’m lucky to see some of them.

 

When I get to the lookout the views over Oslo are amazing!! Wow!

I continue walking, at times am the only person around. It’s so nice to be back in nature again.

 

When I get down the bottom it’s quite confusing (for a non local). I end up just missing a tram. Hey ho, there will be another one soon (I hope!). And there is.

I have a good hour back in the room - longer than I had hoped due to a work call. Gave me longer to thaw out so that’s a positive.

Day is turning into night when I leave the hotel. I take the tram a few stops before walking to Mathallen, which Nindu and Joel had recommended. Maps.me has saved me so many times! I can’t rave about this website enough.

Mathallen is an indoor food market with stalls selling local products as well as bars / restaurants / cafes serving food and drink.

I wander around looking at all the stalls - some selling food to take away to cook, others to eat here. Tonight is all about Norwegian food and seafood restaurant takes the prize.

One sip of the local beer tells me I’ve made the right decision. Let’s hope the fish soups lives up to the hype from the waiter!!!

 

One mouthful of the fish soup tells me I have 100% made the right decision!  The issue will now be savouring it!  For now I'll enjoy being in fish soup heaven.

I wander around Mathallen again - somehow seeing more restaurants this time. I’m still very happy with my choice of restaurant.

 

Getting on the tram back to the city I nearly pass out with the heat. Wholly smoke! It’s far too hot!!!!

Luckily my phone has enough battery to get me into the lift and into my room.

Looking at the weather for tomorrow it’s very clear I’m leaving at the right time!!! High of 3, Saturday a high of 2 (and a low of -2).

It’s been another awesome day in Oslo! I’ve certainly covered a lot of ground.

Friday 27 October I wake to my alarm at 7.30am, I feel like it’s been a short night. I finish packing before heading out. Deciding against breakfast at the hotel.

I collect a coffee and croissant close to the ferry piers.

 

Refer to my Lindoya Island travel blog for my trip to Lindoya Island.

It’s a super fast walk back to the hotel (after getting off the boat), good to help warm me up! As I enter just after 12noon I need to ask for help to get into the lift and my room.

Aaah, it’s nice to be in the warmth again. I thaw out over a work call.

I ask for recommendations for a final Norwegian meal. One of the suggestions is in the opposite direction to the train station so that’s a no. The other is Cafe Cathedral, which is half way between the hotel and the train station. Perfect!

Brrrrr it’s cold!!

Looking at the menu there is only one main meal - reindeer. The rest is pasta and pizza. That’s a no for me. As I walk away I see a board advertising fish soup. Sold!!!

I definitely arrived at the right time - at least 4 other tables walk in within 5 minutes of sitting down.

 

The fish soup is good!!! Last nights is still my favourite.

It’s a quick 22-minute train ride to the airport. I hadn’t factored in arriving this early….time to wait around for check-in to open. At least it’s warm.

Finally! And I mean finally the check-in counters show signs of life.

I try my luck getting into the lounge, fully expecting them to say no. But alas they did not! I’m in. I have a glass of champagne to celebrate.

I have a bit of a speed bump exiting the country, the immigration officer wasn’t able to locate my entry stamp into Stockholm. Eeks! He went through my passport at least 4 times before asking to see details of my flight into Stockholm. In the end he wrote what seemed like a novel into his computer. I’m then given a stamp and told to have a good flight.

At the gate I start the search for the stamp and bingo, it’s there in black and white on page 18. Phew! The Oslo stamp is on page 17……

Ooh Oslo, it’s been amazing!  The only “negatives” is my time has come to an end and The Viking Museum was closed. 

What an amazing few days it’s been! I will absolutely return.