- country #57. How lucky am I??! Pick up is a hop, step and jump from where we are staying at 7.35am. As we step outside the heat is intense already. On arrival the van is already there so we are straight in. We have two more picks up to do; the second one more time consuming as we go back and forth to find them.
Once we finally get going it’s a picturesque drive along the coast.
Gabriel, our driver and guide, gives us some information on the tour as well as history of Croatia along the drive. There are two options for the border crossing, one involves one crossing (in the mountains and is the one we will do) and the other involves three crossings as Croatia is spilt, by 24 kms, by Bosnia and Herzegovina. Apparently yesterday Gabriel’s colleague had a two hour wait at the third and final crossing. No thanks!! In the peak of summer the wait can be up to 8 hours. Ooh dear!! Again no thanks!!
Bosnia and Herzegovina, sometimes known as Bosnia–Herzegovina and often known informally as Bosnia, is a country in South-eastern Europe located in the Balkan Peninsula. Its capital (and largest city) is Sarajevo. Bosnia and Herzegovina is an almost landlocked country apart from a 20 kilometers (12 miles) narrow coast on the Adriatic Sea. Bosnia is the northern part of the country with Herzegovina being the southern part.
Bosnia and Herzegovina was part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia until 1992 when they proclaimed independence following the dissolution of Yugoslavia.
We arrive at the border crossing at 8.45am and 20 minutes later, after having two checks, we are off. Gabriel takes all our passports and hands them over. Nice and efficient for the 13 of us!
We continue with the great mountainous views into Ravno. On the outskirts of the town I notice a house that has huge shell damage to the outside walls. Gabriel informs us Ravno was the first place that was bombed in the war back in 1990/91. This is in my life-time, very sobering.
We have a 20 minute stop at the Old Railway Station in Ravno, which has been converted to a hotel. Coffee and OJ ordered. Susan advises the WC’s outside are the nicest public WC’s she’s been in - I totally agree!
We sit outside enjoying the views of the mountains and the town behind us. There are a number of roofless houses around.
As we continue on our trip to Mostar the amount of traffic, going in the opposite direction, appears out of nowhere then within minutes we are back to being alone on the roads.
Gabriel advises the police can stop and fine people who don’t wear a seatbelt. 13 clicks are heard in the van seconds later
The countryside continues to be amazing. 
Gabriel gives us a history lesson - at times it’s confusing and hard to keep up. I must find the time to read up on it when I return home. He advises there is a 5 hour YouTube video to watch on the war. Perhaps I could do that in a few sittings.
As we drive through the small towns there are lots of fruit and vegetable stalls - the majority being unmanned. I love that the locals (either living close by or anywhere in the country) would be honest and leave the correct amount of money.
The one hour 20 minute drive to Pocitelj passes quickly - helps when there is always something new to look at.
The village of Počitelj is located on the left bank of the river Neretva, and use to be a walled village. The Šišman Ibrahim-pašina džamija or Hajji Alija mosque, which was built in 1563 by Hajji-Alija, son of Musa, is one of the major sights of Počitelj village along with the Kula (fort overlooking the village from the top of the hill) and the Sahat Kula (a bell tower located near to the river).
We have 30 minutes to wander around Pocitelj.
There are lots of small fruit stalls (selling peaches, strawberries, honey, walnuts, figs, pomegranate juice and dried apricots). All look delicious! As well as locally made products.
As we wander up to the tower / fort we are asked at each stall if we want to buy anything - thank you but no. The views from the top are amazing! Views of the mountains, rivers and nearby towns.
Gabriel had brought a punnet of strawberries which he happily shared with us. Super tasty!
The drive is Mostar is 30 minutes - nice and easy! Similar to the rest of the journey so far there is lots of look at.
As we pull into the car park of the Church and bell tower (107 meters high) of Mostar Gabriel informs us we have 3 hours here. The first building we walk by has a huge amount of shell damage.
Mostar is in the Herzegovina region and is the most important city in the region. It’s situation on the Neretva River. Based on the 2013 census (thanks google!) the population of Mostar was 105,797. I’m pretty sure they receive this number and more in tourists each year!
A local guide meets us off the bus - we then have a tour of Mostar with him. Man alive hive its HOT HOT HOT!! He informs us it’s 33 + degrees.....too hot for us. Especially when so much of where we are walking is in the sun. I try as much as I can to walk as close to the shops as possible where there is shade.
When we get to the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva I’m in awe. WOW! I’d seen this on every website that I’d looked up Mostar and Bosnia and Herzegovina (clearly one of the most recognizable landmarks). It was built in the 16th century by the Ottomans so is a year or two old.
I had done some research this morning on lunch options – at the end of the tour we ask the local guide where they are then we are set free for a couple of hours.
Even though we are both crazy hot we decide to wander for a bit before sitting down for lunch. Such a good idea as everyone else from our tour and the majority from the other tour buses seem to disappear into restaurants.
The local guide had advised earlier we can go down to the water to get another view of the bridge - as we are walking down we pass a couple of the local jumpers.
We continue to wander the cobblestone streets until we come to the restaurant I’d researched this morning. Gabriel had mentioned a traditional Bosnian dish of Cevapi so I went for that, as well as ordering the sides of sour cream and ajvar (red sauce) which apparently takes 4 hours to make.... Cevapi is a grilled dish of minced meat that is served (usually 5-10 pieces) in a flatbread with chopped onions, sour cream and ajvar. It was super tasty!!
We decide to have another view of the Old Bridge by walking around the non-cobblestone streets to and over the normal bridge.
As we are walking back to the bus I’m praying the a/c will be on and at zero degrees. This is just far tooooo hot! No wonder a lady collapsed earlier and had to be taken away by stretcher.
We have a 45 minute drive to the Kravica waterfalls. Gabriel mentions they are famous - not sure if it’s in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Europe or in the world.
They are about 25 metres tall and fall into a lake at the base where tourists and locals alike swim. As we are driving into the car park Gabriel informs us not to worry if we see a snake in the water as they are sea snakes and won’t harm us. Ummm yeah I don’t think so! If I was planning on swimming I definitely wouldn’t be getting in now.
It’s a short 5 minute walk down to the Kravica waterfalls - coming up in the heat won’t be as much fun I’m sure but we’ll deal with that later.
I find a tree branch and immediately feel the temperature difference. Heaven on earth. The majority of people from our tour get in - it’s amusing watching them. Some go in toe by toe others straight in. Susan decides to put her feet in. I’m still deciding.....
Feet in - aaah it’s cold but refreshing.
I decide to walk up the “train” route. Yes it’s still HOT HOT HOT! The views of the waterfalls make it worthwhile.
We have a 15 minute drive to the first border crossing / check point. Unfortunately there are others here. Thankfully the first border crossing took 10 minutes. We drive not even 50 meters and join another line. I’m thinking this is the border crossing to get into Croatia. This one takes a little bit more time (15 minutes). One crossing down.....two more to go!
The second border crossing is more like a “slow down to ask for directions” stop. Gabriel opens the door and informs the officer of our nationalities (Australians, Netherlands, Norway and Kiwi’s) - we are waived through. Awesome!! He neglects to mention the two Russians…...
Our next stop is for 10 minutes as a bathroom / drinks stop. Amazing views onto the Bosnia and Herzegovina Coast.
We drive for about 10 minutes then have the third and final border crossing - this one we have to keep our own passports open to the photo page as an officer comes on board to view them all. Nice and easy! Within minutes we are off.
We pull into Dubrovnik 12.5 hours since being picked up. I can assure you it doesn’t feel like we have been “on the road” for 12.5 hours. It’s been a great day exploring a new place that exceeded my expectations!
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