Perugia, Italia – 3-11 September 2016

It’s finally the 2nd of September which means time to be flying away! This time it's for 3 weeks in Europe. Now while that sounds glamorous (and really it does!) I'll be working the third week in London. For now though it's holiday time! My first two week holiday in a very very looooong time. 

I check-in at IFC in-town check-in before heading to work for the day. A great start to the day; tried the "I'm going away for my birthday, any chance of an upgrade" question. The staff have clearly been coached in what to say as it wasn't a straight out no but that was totally what was implied. Ooh well. Perhaps on the return trip. 

My second trip to IFC in-town check-in was to meet Mum and Dad and get them sorted for their 3 flights (with two different airlines).....no idea why it wasn't straight forward but this is HK and sometimes straight forward just doesn't happen. In the end it’s all sorted. 

My flight isn't to 11.05pm but I decide to leave work at 5.30pm - time to get this holiday started! It's a quick trip to the airport and thankfully next to no lines to get through security then immigration. Hello Qantas lounge, it's been awhile!! 

Wow it's busy in here; it's like a treasure hunt trying to find a spare seat. Thank goodness this isn't like this every time I come here. 

I'm about to fall asleep when finally there is an announcement we are boarding. At last - sleep is needed! 

We manage to depart basically on time then have a bit of a wait on the runway; after finally deciding on a movie to watch (the selection wasn't the best) I'm settled in. No thanks on food, who wants to eat dinner around 12.30am?! Not me. 

I manage to get some shut eye and wake about 2 hours before landing. 

We land into London Heathrow at 4.35am on Saturday 3 September - the pilot announces its 13 degrees.....thank goodness I'm not staying here!! Would be a huge change after the 30+ degrees and high humidity. 

I decide to walk to the connection desk rather than taking the train, as we've landed early I have the time and it's nice to stretch the legs after the long flight. We were the first plane to land into Heathrow this morning so the security line is basically non-existent - I know it won't be like this when I'm back here in 3 weeks! Finally I'm in the lounge and its shower time followed by breakfast where I stare outside watching night-time turn into daytime, a sight I'll never tire off. My short transit time has come to an end, time to locate the boarding gate.

To board the plane to Roma we need to get onto a bus, no wonder they started boarding earlier than normal. 

We depart dead on time, goodbye blue sky and the rising sun. 

The flight passes by quickly which is nice and before too long we are making our descent into Roma - the pilot announces its 27 degrees, woo hoo heat!! 

Landing early is all good and well when there is a spot for the plane to stop.....today that's not us! We have a good 20 minutes stopping / starting until we finally stop at our remote spot. Time to disembark then onto a bus. Finally I'm back in Italia!! 

A friend had recently arrived into Roma and said the lines at immigration were over an hour long - really hoping that won't happen today! But given our delay I'm thinking it's quite possible. 

As soon as the bus pulls up at the terminal I do all I can get to the door and out. The Sadj legs increase in speed - under the all passports line only two people are ahead of me, ye ha; I'm seen immediately - the guy stamps my passport and I'm off. Crazy quick! But I'm not complaining. I have just over an hour to Mum and Dad arrive - pretty sure I'll be aok filling in the time. First stop is suitcase followed swiftly by coffee. 

Yeah the coffee didn't quite happen - plenty of time for that though. I spent a lot of time waiting waiting waiting for my bag. At the time Mum and Dad were due to land I go and look on the flight arrival TV to see what number their baggage carousel is and can't find their flight......hello Google! It's landed and is at terminal 1. Hmm no idea what terminal I'm at so go off to ask someone. Yep not at the same terminal so it's a quick walk to terminal 1 - not needed given I have 30 minutes waiting before they arrive. 

We purchase a sandwich then head off in search of the train station - I'd booked us on a 2.39pm train to Perugia from Roma Tiburtina but first we need to get to Roma Tiburtina. Tickets purchased and we are off, the great Italia adventure begins. 

45 minutes later we arrive at Roma Tiburtina! The station is quite modern, not really what I was expecting. We have about 50 minutes here before our next train. 

We are unable to reserve seats on the train to Perugia so decide to head down to the platform 10 minutes before the train is due to depart, and secure a spot that hopefully will work for us when the train arrives. 

Thankfully the first 2-3 carriages that pass us look basically empty so worse case we get on the train then need to walk up; this won't need to happen as our carriage is basically empty. Brilliant! 

The 2 hour 20 minute train ride goes smoothly - amazing views looking out at the Italia countryside. As we get further away from Roma we start to see lots of hilltop villages - Aah this is Italia that I love. 

We pull into Perugia Station just before 5pm (on Saturday 3 September); after getting directions to the mini-metro we are off. 

The mini-metro is a family of cable propelled automated people mover systems (thanks Wikipedia!).

After taking the wrong lift up we are finally on the right platform and within seconds a mini-metro arrives - foot under suitcase (to stop it rolling into someone!) and hand stretched up to hold on; it's definitely steep in parts. We get off at the last stop, Pincetto; now the fun begins - how to find the apartment. I had printed a map but it wasn't exactly helpful. Thankfully a lady asks if she can help (yes thanks!) and we begin the journey uphill.....thank goodness for escalators! And of course for her helping us. She had studied here a number of years ago so was quite familiar with the area. 

Anna Lisa (Airbnb owner) comes down the stairs to meet us. Thankfully there is a small lift which we put Dad and two suitcases in then I walk up. Two lift trips later and a walk up some stairs we have arrived at our home for the next week. Molto amazing! The view is fantastic.

We have a tour of the place then are left to our own devices. We are in Italia!! 

Dad and I head out to find a pharmacy (as he has a cough). The lady is very helpful and within minutes are walking away with some medicine and instructions on where the closest ATM is. We have a quick stop at the supermarcato then back home. 

Dad decides he'll stay put for the evening so Mum and I head out around 7pm. It's still very much light, which I love but aren't use too! We manage to walk 30 meters when we notice people sitting outside so decide to go and try it. 

Aperol Spritz and prosecco are ordered and with that will come some food. This is the life! Wow it's quite a lot of food and for what we pay, €8 per person, it's a bargain!

 

We decide to take a different route home; then stop to buy Dad a couple of pieces of pizza. 

NZ Father’s Day (Sunday 4 September) I'm woken by dogs - where is Richard Jordan where I need him???!! It had been a bit of a noisy night, but to be expected given it was Saturday night. 

I head out for a run at 7.30am, there is a bit of a nip in the air but I know that won't last long! Thankfully I manage to get back to the place where I started without any issue at all. It's definitely a very hilly town. 

Mid-morning we head down to the closest Piazza (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti) for breakfast. Sitting outside admiring the buildings is a great way to start any day. Even though we've been here for 18 hours it feels much longer. Our waiter has brilliant English which makes understanding the menu nice and easy. We all decide on the continental option which consists of a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee, eggs (however you want them), toast, bacon, pancakes, strawberries and a fresh fig. Looks absolutely delicious! And tastes great too! The bacon in-particular is out of this world.
 

Ready to face the day we wonder off to Piazza IV Novembre, which is really a hop, step and jump away. It's great staying in the old town - means everything is so close. 

We spend time just wandering around Piazza IV Novembre; at times being in places with no one else around.  The Fontana Maggiore and Cathedrale di San Lorenzo are the two main sights that really stand out. 

 

 

 

 

As we headed away from Piazza IV Novembre the heat beats down on us - thanks but we'll stick to walking in the shade as much as we can. 

Dad leaves us after a while to head back to the apartment; Mum and I continue to wander around. It's lovely just wandering taking in the amazing buildings. This really is the life! 

We make a stop at the supermarcato to pick up a few items - handy when it's so close to the apartment. 

It's a lovely relaxing afternoon at the apartment - I enjoy the views from the comfort of the sofa. 

It feels like early evening, but it's really just after 7pm when Mum and I head out. Love day light savings. Dad's still not feeling great so he elects to stay home, and given Anna Lisa and her husband are coming around to fix a couple of things it works out well. We've been having issues every time we enter back into the apartment so really do need a cheat sheet way to enter! 

Mum and I head down to the Piazza where we had breakfast this morning; we decide to try a different bar / restaurant so settle on the place next door which also has outdoor seating. The staff member doesn't seem enthused at all so after waiting a good 5 minutes to see if he would serve us (or even make eye contact, and this is after he told us to sit wherever we wanted) we decide it’s time to go somewhere else! 

Anna Lisa had recommended a few places, one we passed this morning on the way to Piazza IV Novembre so we head there. Within seconds of being seated we are given a menu (which is crazy long!), no need thanks we know what we would like, our drinks order is taken - such a contrast from earlier. We're told there is food inside which we can help ourselves too. It's reminding me a lot of Santa Margarita and Bologna where food is provided when you drink.

Drink finished so time to move on. We had walked by Caffe Blu a couple of times already so decide to head there for a meal. No need for me to review the drinks menu when it arrives, aperol spritz Grazie Millie. When it arrives I take one sip and wonder how I'll get home. Man alive it’s strong! 

Our food arrives soon after and looks delicious.

A cool breeze picks up, a jersey is needed which makes Mum laugh. But honestly it is cool! 

Monday 5 September I'm woken by my alarm at 5.55am - absolutely NO idea why I set it. Might have to join the Italians this afternoon with a siesta! No beautiful sun rise this morning, instead we have clouds. Let's hope the rain holds off. 

Mum and I head out for a walk.  There are definitely a lot more people around this morning. Not surprising given its Monday and the first day of school. There is a nip in the air, perfect for exercising! 

We have breakfast in the piazza before purchasing tickets for the Perugia City Bus Tour from the Information Centre. We meander our way to Piazza Italia, the start of the tour, and go in search of the Covered Market which has recently moved nearby. Further and further underground we go, the town planners have done well putting in the escalators to assist people walking up / down the hills. We notice a sign so head off in that direction only to come up empty handed; more searching is required so we head further down until we see another sign - the earlier sign we had seen is pointing in the wrong direction! Not exactly helpful but hey ho. The market is definitely not what I had expected; there are 3 little shops on the left hand side of the square and on the right a fruit and vege stop, a meat shop and a seafood shop. Perhaps the food part of the market has been shut down while the renovations are being done, what a shame. 

We head back up the hill - thank you escalators!! - and find a cafe on the corner of Piazza Italia for coffee. My second one today so hoping I won't be bouncing off the walls later as I haven't drank caffeine for basically 2 months. 

We jump onto the bus at 11am for our Perugia City Tour. 

The tour takes us around the historical centre as well as the outskirts (into the countryside).  We learn that Perugia doesn’t put salt in their bread; ummm no thanks!

 

At the completion of the tour we are dropped off at the point where we joined the tour. We meander our way towards the Fontana Maggiore then head left away from the apartment with no fixed location. Lovely to be just wandering and taking in the sights of Perugia normal day life. 

It's time for lunch and of course a decision on where to eat, not the easiest when there are so many options! We arrive at piazza Danti where there are two places to choose from; we'll go with the one that has the most locals thanks very much. 

Definitely not a sandwich place, instead there are at least 25 different dishes to choose from. We all go in separately to decide what to eat then return outside to enjoy.

One of the places I'd wanted to visit, Pozzo Etrusco is a stone’s throw away from our table - talk about location location location! 

Pozzo Etrusco is a historical site, dating back to the 3rd century BC it was the main water reservoir and then more recently a source of water during the WWII bombing raids. We watched a short video describing the well before venturing down to see the 36m deep well. 

We wander back towards our apartment, stopping enroute at the amazing GROM for a takeaway ice-cream. Yum yum yum, just as I remembered it was over 6 years ago.

We continued our wandering, and hunting for sunglasses for Dad. Of course most places shut from 1pm to 4pm so Mum and Dad decided to go back to the apartment for a rest and siesta. I headed off in search of a huge watch clock I'd seen on my mornings exercise. I know there will be a quicker way to locate it but I stick to what I know to get there. 

It's even more impressive up close - Chiesa di Sant'Ercolano.

Wowzers these hills are steep! It's a slow walk up; thankfully it's not crazy hot! Back to the apartment I go. 

Dad had been on the hunt for sunglasses since we arrived to no avail so we decided to head down to the train station to check out if there are any shops nearby. Google wasn't exactly helpful with this! 

Back onto the mini-metro we go - this really is an awesome way to get around Perugia; and with it coming every 1.5 minutes you don't spend long waiting for the next one.

The first place I notice after exiting the turnstiles is a Coop (Italian supermarket) - I've been to a massive one when I lived in Venice which sold everything for the house but I can't see this one being the same. As we get closer we spy a shop that has the word market above their door. 2 seconds after entering we see a sunglass stand in front of us - bingo. Now to find a pair for Dad. 

Father’s Day gift purchased, a day late but better late than never!, we head to the Coop to pick up a few things. I'd seen a 750ml bottle of Aperol at the supermarket near us but decided I want a 1 litre to take back to HK so that was one item I went off looking for 

When we head outside we're surprised to see that it's been raining and is now just spitting. We were in the coop for under 30 minutes so it must have absolutely bucketed down as there is so much water on the ground. 

Back to the mini-metro we head, then to the apartment to drop off our purchases. 

On my walk earlier this afternoon I'd seen a sign in a shop window advertising Havaianas, Mum had been on the lookout for a pair so we headed down to the hill to check them out. Unfortunately nothing in her size so back up we go then into a place that Anna Lisa has recommended to us for drinks. On entering all 3 of us felt the heat - there is no a/c in here and while it's not crazy hot outside (there is actually a cool breeze) this is just unbearable so no thanks we'll go somewhere else. 

We headed to the a piazza just north (or perhaps it's south!) of where the bus city tour left from today and choose a place sitting outside. Within minutes Mum and I had our Pashminas out - jeans and a jacket would have been appropriate attire! 

Dad went back to the apartment and Mum and I went off in search of a restaurant that Anna Lisa recommended. Thankfully no issue finding it, the menu looked nice so in we headed. They either didn't have outdoor sitting or had closed it up as it was too cold, suited us just fine as it’s just too cold to be outside with the clothes we have on. 

Eeks no aperol spritz here (what kind of restaurant doesn't have this??!) so we go with the house white wine. We remember what the white wine was like when we were in Tuscany a few years ago so aren't holding out much hope for this. When it finally arrived I took one sip and thought bloody hell! Pretty sure I would have drank worse when I was at Uni, but regardless we'll drink it.

Food was so so, mine better than Mum's.

 

Tuesday, 6 September I'm woken early by the dogs again. It's still dark so have NO idea why they are up and practicing their barking. Managed to get a bit more shut-eye until the street cleaners arrive. Definitely no sleep in around here! On opening the shutters the sun is rising - after adjusting my eyes it's a great sight. 

I head out for a run at 8am; thankfully today I do come across two others who are doing the same. Definitely a good way to see a town / city, although today was very hilly!! 

Refer to Spello travel blog. 

As Dad hasn't been very well we decided to have a night in and cook. We picked up a couple more things at the Coop then got on the mini-metro back to the apartment. 

Dad started to go downhill so we arranged with Anna Lisa for their doctor friend to visit him. Finally they arrived after 9pm, saw Dad then I went off with him to get him some medicine. Amazing that the pharmacy is open 24 hours a day! Script handed through a wee hole and within minutes I had what I needed. 

Wednesday, 7 September I wake to strong wind - noooo we want sunshine please. 

Mum and I headed out for a walk, thankfully the sun was out as it was cool.

We had planned on going to Assisi today but decided against it given the doctor’s visit from last night. Instead we headed out for coffee and pastry then wandered through the old town, and down to the train station (which is also the bus station).

 

 

 

Bus tickets purchased then the wait for the bus begins. We're heading to a shopping mall that is about 10 minutes away by bus. 

Centro Commerciale Emisfero is not exactly big so it didn't take us long to have a wander around before deciding to head back to the old town. 

We had a good 25 minutes to wait for the bus back to the train station so decided to walk along to the next bus stop. Didn't really take any time off but it meant we were hanging around on the side of the road; the next bus stop has a wee seat. 

On arrival at the train station we got straight onto the mini-metro for a couple of stops (getting out two stops before our stop). From here we took the escalators up as far as we could then walked up to Piazza della Repubblica for lunch. It was sunny enough to sit outside which was great! 

 

We have a couple of hours at the apartment relaxing - so nice to be out of the wind! 

Mum and I head out to visit the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo.  The current version, started back in 1345 and continued to 1587.  There are parts, primarily on the exterior that were never completed.

We see our first 'dodgy brothers are us' person as we leave the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo. Nice that we've had a few days here without running into any. 

Drinks time! Sitting outside watching the world go by is priceless.

We had made a reservation earlier in the day at La Taverna, which is really just a hop, skip and jump from where we currently are. 

I was amazed we weren't one of the first tables (it's just gone 8pm) to arrive, some tables were in full swing. We were served a glass of bubbles, which was actually not too bad, to start with. Soon it will be French champagne :) 

Dinner is delicious! I went with the pork chop and unlike Mum's pork chop on Firenze a few years ago I did get some vegetables with it. 

To end we were served a glass of homemade chocolate liqueur, which was absolutely delicious! I could have drank the whole bottle but know tomorrow won't be fun.

 

 

Thursday, 8 September I wake before the sun, great to see night turn into day. 

Refer to Assisi travel blog.

On arrival back into Perugia we take the mini-metro uphill before stopping by GROM to get a gelato. Yum yum! Anna Lisa had recommended another restaurant, which had good reviews online, so went off in search of that. Restaurant located but it's closed so we'll just wing it tonight with a table.

We spend a few hours relaxing at the apartment. 

We head down to our Piazza for a drink. There is a Pilsen Italia promotion on, purchase a beer and get a free glass with your name on. A cool way to get people to buy a beer! Mum and I go to our trusty favourites, Aperol spritz and prosecco.

We select a place for dinner and on sitting down at the restaurant realise the menu is all in Italian.  Well this will be interesting! 

Can't believe we have been in the country for 6 days and no limoncello - what is the world coming too?! We decide to head to a place Mum and I had been too earlier; on arrival the first question is do they have limoncello - si si. Table sorted, drinks ordered.

 

 

Friday, 9 September I head out for a run. 

We go back to a place we had been two days ago for coffee and croissant.....one day it will be muesli and fruit or toast but for now we'll be like an Italian! 

Today we are heading to Lake Trasimeno, we had decided to take the late morning train (11.44am) which meant we don't need to rush. 

I manage to make us a reservation for dinner this evening - definitely in my pigeon Italiano! 

Time to wander down the hill to the train station. 

 

Refer to Passignano Sul Trasmeno  travel blog. 

On returning to the apartment we relax and begin packing.

Drinks are enjoyed at Caffe Blu.

We decide on a new (to us) area for dinner and aren’t disappointed with the place we select.

 

Saturday, 10 September it's another early wake-up by the dogs and street cleaners. Definitely no sleep in's here! We are leaving Perugia this morning so probably just as well I wake early - the final packing needs to be done. 

In typical Jordan fashion we are ready early - the task begins of dragging the suitcases down one flight of stairs to the lift begins. Well that's what I thought! Dad calls the lift but it doesn't arrive so I walk downstairs to check it out; there is a lady trying to operate it with no luck. Ooh bloody hell it means I have to walk up then we need to carry our bags all the way down. Thank goodness it's down and not up!! 

On exiting the building there is a much needed breeze - ideally another shower would be good but that's not possible! We head to the mini-metro, awesome that they come every 1.5 minutes. 

Mum and I get Dad sorted with the bags then head over to the Coop for a couple of things. We have a good hour before our train to Firenze, great not to be rushing! 

Mum orders our breakfast in Italiano (standard fare of coffee and croissant) while Dad and I get a seat. The barista man remembers us from yesterday (and other days) and greets us like old friends! So lovely. Just before we leave he gave me a chocolate. 

Now for the fun of suitcases down then upstairs. Ooh bloody hell I should have just travelled with my credit card!!! 

It's a very slow journey for me - on the last up stretch a man helps me and takes it up the last part. Ye ha I'm on the platform! 

We have a 20 minute wait before the train is due to arrive. Our time in Perugia has come to an end - a wonderful week! Firenze then Pisa here we come.