I arrived in Avignon early afternoon on Thursday 29 July, wow how can it be the end of July already?! For some very odd reason I hadn't written down the address to the hotel, so unlike me. Found an information booth which only handled transport, however was advised how to get to the centre then the information centre from there.
Fingers crossed its not difficult to find the information centre. Luck was on my side though so no information centre was needed. A couple entered the bus after me and asked the bus driver for directions to the same hotel I'm staying in - ye ha I’ll be following them. They are an older Australian couple who were traveling the world for 5 months, she had retired from her job and he had recently sold their farm. Hmm perhaps I could be traveling for that long, small issue is I didn't just sell my farm.
Arrived at the hotel within minutes of getting off the bus, as I'd booked so late (yesterday morning) I was going to have to move rooms half way through my stay. Doesn't really bother me, more a hassle having to pack up everything. Beth had lent me a small suitcase so I'm feeling more like I'm on a long weekend away rather than backpacking.
Avignon is a walled city and thankfully I was staying within the walls. It reminded me a lot of Lucca in Italy. I had to keep telling myself I was in France not Italy. Now only if my brain could work that out and stop speaking Italian.
I dropped off my bags and headed to the information centre, I'd read that it was lavender season and was keen to do a tour. Once that was sorted I wandered down the main street. Avignon was in the middle of its annual art festival so there were lots of people around including dressed up actors trying to drum up business for their shows - people watching was at it's highest!!
The main street has so many amazing buildings to look at, each with small individual balconies that I wish I had. Not to be at this hotel. The architecture of every building was great.
I decided to stop for a glass of wine and people watch once more. The busiest place was the Irish pub so that's where I went, yes I know it seems very odd to be at an Irish pub when in France but hey ho. Ordered a glass of white wine for €2.50 I couldn't believe how cheap it was! Even better was that it was about 1/3 of a bottle. I'll be coming back here.
I decided to ask the hotel reception for restaurant recommendations and came away with 4. For some reason my internet in the room wasn't working so for tonight I'll be going with one of them. As I was walking to locate the restaurants I noticed that every restaurant had a set menu for the day, something I hadn't seen for awhile.
Dinner was delicious but I have to say the most expensive since I've been away - will have to make sure tomorrow isn't like this otherwise I’ll be out of money far too quickly.
Friday morning I was up early for my tour, I had noticed a supermarket yesterday afternoon so headed off there to get some breakfast. Ran into Gayle from the bus yesterday, they were heading off in a couple of hours to a new destination.
The tour started dead on time and with only 6 of us it made for a nice small group. The driver had us all sit towards the front so he didn't have to use the microphone, he said this way he didn't need to take one hand of the steering wheel - I was more than happy with sitting close to the front! First stop was at a huge sunflower field, as you will remember I saw a few of these on my train journeys. Being up close to them was wonderful! Many photos were taken from all of us then we were off, passed the outskirts of the hillside village town of Gordes (had a quick stop for photos) before going into the village for a look around. We had 30 minutes to wander around - an amazing little village which I'd be more than happy to come back to and park up for a few months.
Next stop was the famous Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque. This is surrounded by lavender, such a beautiful sight! I’m hoping my photos do both justice. We walked around the area taking in the strong smell then into the Church, the inside is a lot smaller than the outside but still very impressive.
From here we drove to Sault which I'm told is the French capital of lavender, the views from the hillside village were amazing - you could see lavender fields for as far as the eye could see. I am hoping my photos do it justice. We had a couple of stops for photos, one of the stops we were able to walk among the many rows.
Last stop on the tour was at a lavender farm where there was lavender for Africa! Unfortunately my memory card was close to capacity so I couldn’t just snap away, I really needed to sort out my other memory card tonight. It was great to be up so close to it all. After we had taken our photos we headed off to learn and see what happens with the dried lavender. It is all cut then left to dry, once dried its put into a huge pot and streamed to produce the oil – was fascinating seeing exactly how it was done.
The scenery on the ride back to Avignon was amazing, like it had been this morning – lots of wine vines, apple trees, lettuce patches and lavender.
We returned back to Avignon just before 2.30pm, an hour later than we should but I was definitely not complaining. If one of the ladies didn't have a train to catch we would have been longer. I returned to the hotel for a couple of hours to chill, I'd go my nose into a book so was keen to keep reading especially I was moving rooms tomorrow morning.
Around wine-a-clock (which really is anytime for me!) I headed out in search of a cafe. It had turned into a hot day but still lovely to be outside. Found a place to park up for a good hour, continued reading while drinking. It's a hard life. Decided to move on and try somewhere else - the majority of the places were full and with the art festival acts still walking around it was good entertainment. I was given an ice cube in my wine, something that was new to me.
Thought it best to try one of the recommendations I got last night for dinner and thankfully had no problem finding it. Loved sitting outside and people watching.
Saturday morning I had a sleep in, it's tough work being a tourist! Packed up my room and headed out to the Palais Des Papes (Pope's Palace). The Palace was the residence of the sovereign pontiffs in the 14th century and is the largest Gothic Palace in the world. The building is ranked as an UNESCO world heritage building. I enjoyed walking around the halls, chapels, apartments etc and looking at the amazing frescos.
From here I headed off to the Pont Saint-Benezet. This famous site is known through the world in the famous song. It was built in the 12th century and was destroyed several times, being rebuilt a couple of times. Unfortunately it no longer goes the whole way over the river.
By this stage I was getting a little peckish so stopped at one of the cafes overlooking the palace - great for people watching. The shows going on obviously found it good to advertise in the same area so I was not short of things to watch.
From here I headed to the Cathedral Notre-Dame des Doms, like all the churches I've been in previously it was beautiful. I found it interesting that there was 3 small alcoves on both sides before getting to the main alter. Something I haven't seen for a very long time, if not every....my brain isn't working as good as it usually does - is it the heat? or the fact I don't need to think much anymore?
I came down from the Cathedral and wandered the streets in the direction of my hotel. I loved all the buildings I saw and couldn't get over how many people were around - I had definitely come to Avignon during their busiest week.
Got keys to my new room, right at the top of the hotel thank you very much. Would have been fine if there was a lift but alas no, stairs stairs and more stairs. This will definitely be my exercise given I haven't managed to get out my runners to actually run.....perhaps next week. Did some research on going to Aix-en-Provence before heading out to buy the train tickets. The lady serving me was unbelievably helpful, I was definitely getting use to the helpful French - nothing like what they are like in the north.
It was still a very hot day so decided it was time to sit with a glass of wine and watch the world go by. Went back to the Irish pub as they seemed to have the best deal. I got chatting to a couple about 40 kms from Avignon who were so lovely. The lady could speak Italian and would often talk in a mixture of Italian and English. I had a couple of hours with them and if I return to France will absolutely go and visit them.
I then headed into the main part of town in search for dinner. Every place I went to was very busy which is always a good sign. I picked one, ordered a glass of rose and a fresh vegetable tart - I was set! A lovely way to end a great day.
Sunday morning I was up early to for my day trip to Aix-en-Provence. I had to take the bus out to the TGV station, an impressive modern building which I hadn't been able to fully appreciate when I left there on Thursday for Avignon city centre. I had a short wait before my train arrived, I basically got comfy played a couple of games of Sudoku then we arrived - nice and quick. I then has 10 minutes to find the bus which will take me to the city centre. Of course this was a little challenging and I was worried I'd miss the bus - nothing to fear, timetables aren't what they are like everywhere else I've been!
On arrival into the city centre there was a train/bus information station so I headed there in the hope they may have a map, alas no and I was informed the main information station was closed on Sunday's, great just my luck. Followed a few other people from the bus, hoping of course they were going to the centre. It was supposed to be a small town so how lost can I get?! Thought it best to sit and have a coffee deciding what to do. Wholly moley they aren't cheap, Roma was basically free compared to these prices.
Noticed a little train that took tourists round, now I usually don't do these but with the information centre closed thought it might be good so I can see what there is to do in this place. Had time to spare before the next train so had a wander up a couple of streets. Went into the Church of the Holy Spirit just as it opening, talk about good timing. I found it interesting that this Church was just on a normal shopping street stuck in-between two different shops, rather different to what I'd seen before on this trip.
Headed back to where the little train left from and basically just waited waited waited - the French are not good with keeping to time. Finally we took off and received a tour of the city for 1 hour. I found it very interesting and went further afield than what I thought we would. I was now aware where I wanted to return too. One of the ladies I use to work with had lived here during Uni so I had a few "to do's" from her. First stop was going to the information centre, to get a map, which I'd since learnt was open today. More waiting around for it to open, they closed for their lunch hour - how nice for them. Mapped up I was and the walking began.
I enjoyed just wandering the streets, the majority of the shops were closed given it was Sunday which made the wandering ever better - not as many people around.
I stopped for a late lunch and lots of people watching. I had been short changed when I brought a drink early, which I find very rude (clearly they take this as their "tip"), so was surprised when I was given the correct change.
On the bus ride back to the TGV station the bus drivers phone rang and he answered - now this would have been all well and good if the bus was automatic but it wasn't. We had a couple of turns around corners via his elbow. Ooh dear fingers crossed we make it to the station in one piece!
Well I arrived safe and sound but had to wait forever for my train, they kept making announcements which of course I understood nothing. Bloody brilliant - every time an announcement was made they started off with a "ring" noise, reminded me of what I woke up to for 5 years while at boarding school (really not pleasant). Finally the train arrived and we were off, a good 30 minutes late. This trip I was seated upstairs, the view I'm sure would have been good if it wasn't near dark. Given we were late arriving back to Avignon the next bus didn't leave for 40 minutes.....grrrrrrrrrr! Getting a taxi went through my mind but I was concise of the cost so instead started the long wait. One girl approached me on sharing a taxi, I was in with a grin!! 3 of us shared and I was seated at a restaurant with a glass of beer before the bus left the train station. Bliss!
Prior to me talking to the ladies about sharing a taxi the sky had changed and spits of rain were beginning - all I hoped is that it held off until after I got back to the hotel.
Before coming to Avignon I'd done a small amount of research on restaurants to try - one in particular was a Belgian restaurant serving mussels so I decided tonight to have mussels, along with my beer. I was set, now if only the rain would stop and the thunder and lightning would disappear, it had got dark far to early. When there seemed to be a small break I made a run for my hotel, thankfully getting back with only a few rain spots getting me.
Monday morning I had a sleep in then relaxed while packing up. My train wasn't until 4.45pm so I was going to leave my luggage at the hotel while I went out wandering the streets one more time. Checking out was a little painful, it was here I experienced rudeness of the French and I was shocked. Then they made matters worse by saying it cost €3 to hold my bag, are you kidding me?! I've just stayed four nights - unbelievable! There was no way I was going to take my suitcase with me for the day so I had to deal with it and pay. Grrrrrrrrrr.
I had foolishly left the my map in the room so I was walking blind, this typically wouldn't be an issue but I needed to find a post office. First stop was coffee, I've got into the habit of having espressos which I'm very surprised with. So not like me at all. I was amazed at how quiet the streets were, clearly everyone had left Avignon yesterday after the festival ended. The locals now seemed to be getting on with their lives.
How wrong I was, I got to one of the major piazzas where the Palace is and that's where all the tourists were - there was a huge line to get into the palace, I was very glad I went the other day when I could just walk in. I was sitting down minding my own business when a man came and asked me the time, of course I answered in English and the conversation started. Where are you from? Hong Kong. But you aren't Chinese so where are you actually from England, Canada, Australia? I'm from NZ. World champions in rugby (you bet you!!), then your skin is not dark - excuse me. It's rather interesting and difficult talking to someone who's first language isn't English. Next question, this one in French, what is your name? I can never lie with this question. Then came comments about my smile and how beautiful I was, ok time to make a run for it. Then the icing on the cake, are you married? Do you have a boyfriend? Again I couldn't lie, the reply back was "same same" - I cracked up laughing! He had said a couple of times already. He then tried to ask how long I hadn't been married or had boyfriend - wholly heck this was turning strange. It was my time to ask him a question, you don't have a Boyfriend either? I don't think he understood. He then said he wanted to have a drink with me, I declined saying I wanted to visit the Palace (aah I can tell a white lie). He asked how long I'd be, I said nicely I didn't know but after I finished I had to return to my hotel then go off to Geneva. He was disappointed and said he was too late, indeed he was. I said goodbye and joined the long line for the Palace, thought I'd waste time and hopefully when I exit he won't be there.
I remembered there was a wine room towards the exit of the Palace so thought I'd go for some wine tasting - it's after 5pm in many places of the world :) So I lined up with everyone else. Also this would waste time so that Jack (hopefully) wouldn't be waiting around. I tried 3 wines (white, rose and red), all very nice. The man serving had very good English so we chatted away about the wine, Avignon and visiting NZ. I made the mistake of talking to him about screw caps on the wine bottles in Kiwi land, I should have known his Frenchness would come out. I was told in no uncertain terms that it's wrong to have screw tops on wine....I should have never spoken about this. I left feeling a little tipsy and hoping I wouldn't run into Jack. Food was now needed and quickly.
I wanted to go to somewhere I haven't seen before so this meant away from the tourist routes. I found a lovely small cafe which was busy - had a delicious salad with lots of water.
By this stage I had just over 2 hours before the bus left to the TGV station - too small enough time to do anything major but too long just to sit around waiting. So I walked around for a bit taking in all the amazing buildings, relaxed in a park area and visited the post office.... Yes boring I know but I'd been carrying around postcards now for over a week. Returned to the hotel to collect my luggage and was surprised mine was the only one there, obviously people weren't happy to pay the storage fee (which I still think is crazy!).
Had close to 20 minutes wait for the train - my Sudoku book got a good work out! Onto the train and the first thing I hear is a child screaming, dear lord please don't let me be seated with them.....and guess what.....I was. Shit it's going to be a long 4 hours. I had already decided to use the time wisely and go through my photos, I was terribly behind and wanted to try and upload some before going to Zurich. Thankfully that occupied me for a couple off hours then it was onto Sudoku (yes I'm a huge fan), and trying to ignore this naughty child. They got off about 30 minutes before me so I had a small reprieve....that is until a younger child was screaming in a high pitch voice - nurofen where are you I'm in desperate need!
On arrival in Geneva I couldn't get off the train quick enough! Had some issues buying my tram ticket (I didn't have a small note and they only give change up to 10 Francs) and in the end got assistance from 2 police/security type people. They put me down as reduced fare, I didn't have the heart to tell them I was older than they thought. My heart was beating ninety to the dozen the whole tram journey that I was going to be stopped by a train inspector, thankfully this didn't happen and I made it safely back to Beth's.
I'd had a great time in Avignon and would highly recommend people visit, it's a great part of France and one I'm thankfully I just "fell" into.
I now have 3 nights in Geneva again before heading off to Zurich.
Ciao for now.
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