I'm on the road again - well first boat, then plane then road……Vietnamese roads to be exact. Today (Tuesday, 7 December) I'm leaving Hong Kong and heading to Hue, Vietnam. On arrival into Hanoi I'm in no rush to clear immigration or collect my pack as I have close to 5 hours at the airport before my flight to Hue. After exchanging money, ye ha finally I'm a multi-millionaire!! and purchasing a sim card join a quee to check-in for my Hue flight.
Then the waiting begins - Hanoi airport is by no means exciting so after doing a quick walk around I locate a power point and settle in for a few hours.
Finally boarding time has arrived. After a quick flight (less than one hour) we land in Hue. The airport is super tiny, I'd like to say smaller than Blenheim, so I have no problem finding my driver. Getting out of the airport is a tad worrying as he is driving so slow and I'm worried I'm about to lose my bags or worse my insides. He starts talking to me, which I take as a good sign, especially when he offers to be my driver tomorrow. Given I could run faster, and I'm still not 100% convinced I'm going to end up at the right hotel, I reply saying I'll have the hotel call you should I need a driver. After a few minutes of being passed by every man, dog and bike I notice the petrol gauge is on E for empty....brilliant! I try to smile and make out like I'm having a good time, perhaps if it wasn't so dark I wouldn't feel so worried. I'm now beginning to wonder if coming to Vietnam on my own is a wise idea......anyway can’t do anything about it now.
We finally make it to the hotel, the 18km drive took over 40 minutes, and I'm blown away with the service. The receptionist comes out to greet me and brings me straight up to my room. I then nearly fall over when I notice fresh roses and rose pedals in the room - as the rate is USD 18 per night (which by the way includes Internet and breakfast) I'm shocked. I totally didn't expect this from this hotel.
Wednesday (8th December) I’m up early, but have a relaxing morning, breakfast and Internet surfing, I leave the hotel with no fixed destination. Decided today would be my "scope out" day. Within a few minutes of leaving the heavens open - there goes my plan!
I locate a bar and settle in with a coffee and get my nose into a book. Unfortunately the coffee isn't as good as the Vietnamese coffee I've had before but it's not terrible. Within an hour the place starts to fill up with people ordering beer and lunch, I go for the healthy option of a salad.
The rain seemed to have stopped by mid afternoon so I decide to make my exit and wander back to the hotel.
Early evening I head out, I'm surprised there aren't more people out and about. A man on a motorbike decides to drive next to me while chatting away - where are you from? Ooh I have friends that live in Auckland. How long are you here? Where are you going now? Thankfully there was a bar in front of me so I head straight on in.
I decide to head somewhere else for dinner, and come across a place that is full to bursting. Within a few minutes though the place is basically empty (no I don’t smell)....I was told earlier there was a soccer/football game on so I'm guessing they are all running off to watch the game. I decide to take a walk after dinner and after about 10 minutes nothing is looking familiar - yes I know directions aren't my strong point at the best of times but this is a joke. I notice a hotel so decide to head there to get directions, however on getting closer, and walking over freshly laid cement (whoops sorry!) I walk into a furniture shop. Lots of hand movements then I produce the hotels business card (thank goodness I have this)....after a few minutes someone comes who can speak English and informs me someone from the hotel is coming to collect me. She advised I could walk, which I’d be happy to do, however someone is already on their way. I nearly fall over when a man appears and informs me he is taking me back on a motorbike along with his friend - I think not!!! So after a few words it's just him and I on the bike. Thank goodness it was a quick trip!!! Although it would have been much quicker if he was going at a normal pace.....
Thursday morning, after breakfast, I head out and am immediately jumped on by people asking if I want a ride on their motorbike or cyclo. I politely decline and continue walking.
I made sure I was well aware of the exact directions so that I don't end up going in the complete opposite direction like last night :)
For part of the journey I walk along the Perfume River, let me assure you there is nothing pleasant smelling about this river - where they got the name is anyone’s guess.
I see two very new black Mercedes in the road and quickly notice how out of place they are with all the motorbikes, cyclos and push bikes around.
After managing to get to the Citadel on foot and still smiling I'm surprised, but very pleased, there aren't guides hanging around trying to make some money by giving people a guided tour.
The Citadel spans 10 km long of walls which are 2 meter thick and houses the majority of Hue’s sights, along with a large number of locals. On entering the Citadel I’m amazed at the number of buildings that are still standing, and how many are still being restored. This job I’m sure will take years and years. I have a couple of hours wandering around the area, at times enjoying areas with no one else. The bright colours (red and gold) bring to life the buildings.
It's time for me to exit back into the big wide world of Hue, deep breaths needed. The constant being spoken to is really getting to me, I try more times than not to flatly ignore them but always feel bad. Thankfully I manage to walk 5 minutes before the first person talks to me - a record!
After stopping for lunch I decide to visit the one and only (well that I can tell) Church in Hue. Thought I'd mix it up a bit :) unfortunately though the Church is closed. Instead I wander the streets and enjoy all the different sights, sounds and smells they have to offer.
I come across the Why Not Bar, where I was last night, and decide it has to be 5pm somewhere in a world - the worlds cheapest beer is a calling me name. I get chatting to an older woman from Kiwi land that is travelling around Vietnam, swapping notes. Always great to speak with someone who's first language is English!
After chilling out at the hotel, well doing more bloody research, I head out. Decide to do as the locals do and enjoy a beer sitting on the pavement - bliss!! before going for dinner.
Friday (10 Dec) I'm up early, after breakfast I'm collected for my tour. Silly naive me didn't think properly about being picked up and after a couple of deep breaths realise I'm going to have to sit side saddle on a motorbike. Not the best but hey ho I have a skirt on so no other choice. Another guest at the hotel came outside to assure me I was doing it right - fingers crossed it's not a long journey!
After sitting on the boat for a good 20 minutes we are made to change boats given there are only 7 of us. More waiting around, the Germans certainly don't operate like this.
Our first stop is what they call a village, I on the other hand call it a track/road that has houses and restaurants down it. Not exactly what I was expecting and I'm sure this wasn't on the tour.....
Back onto the boat we cruise (super slowly I must add) down the Perfume River to the Thien Mu Pagoda. What an amazing site, and sight, this is in on. Close to 360 degree views of the river.
Next on the Perfume River is the Hon Chen Temple. This small temple is set up thirty stairs with close to 360 views of the Perfume River. A lovely place for a B&B me things.
Before leaving the boat at the Tomb of Ming Mang “wharf” I notice how the river splits, one is filthy dirty, the other looks like you could swim in. Just a huge difference.
The Tomb of Ming Mang, for Ming Mang who ruled from 1820 to 1840, is a large complex with a lake surrounding the ground. Before reaching the tomb area (which you are not allowed to enter and is quite boring compared with the other buildings) there is a large temple and three bridges. If it wasn’t for all the tour buses from the North it would be peaceful.
We get onto the bus and travel to Tu Duc Tomb. Emporer Tu Duc designed the tomb between 1864 and 1867, and is now slowly being restored. The guide advised Emporer Tu Doc had 104 wives, yes 104 wives, and countless concubines but no children. Like the Tomb of Ming Mang, the complex is large, and includes a Pavilion, lake with fish, two Temples, Chamber and numerous Tomb’s.
Our last stop before returning back to Hue is at an Incense stick and Vietnamese hat making village. This small village catches the eye with the bright coloured incense sticks that are drying on the side of the road.
We get back into Hue earlier than anticipated as we didn't visit one of the sites. I felt had it getting off the bus and headed straight back to the hotel to chill out.
Beer o’clock was calling early evening so off I headed. Walked the opposite way to what I've been walking and came across a local market on the footpath - amazing where they set up shop. Managed to find my way back to the city centre with no issues, I think this is due to the fact it's light and I actually know where I'm going this time :) I decide on a small local place and sit reading a paper and people watching. I'm interrupted a few times by people selling artwork of some description, get told a few sob stories although who knows if they are true. I give my 3 day old paper to the lady, who I’m thinking will try to sell it.
After dinner I wander around a bit before heading back to the hotel.
Saturday morning I'm up early, attempt to pack before heading down to breakfast. Big mistake! End up having to repack to fit everything in.
In the taxi to the train station my heart misses a few beats as I see two motorbikes crash and all 3 people on the road. Fingers crossed they can all walk away with no major injuries.
I'm now thanking my lucky stars I decided to take a taxi rather than get on a motorbike!!!
Waiting for the train was a little stressful as no one seemed to speak English and there seemed to be so many people waiting! Am sure it will be a man rush when the train finally arrives.
When the train finally arrived it was a mad dash to enter, anyone would think it was free seating!! Even though I had on my pack I was pushed around alike nobody’s business and more often than not by grandmothers. Finally it was my turn to enter, it was a large step up and at some stage I honestly thought I was going to fall backwards - instead I held on for dear life and pulled myself up. I'm definitely not in Europe anymore Dorothy......
Off to Da Nang I go.
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