Thursday, March 29 after doing my last minute souvenir shopping I wait like everyone else in a nice neat line - my train to Kyoto is running late.....imagine!
Once we take off though we are like a bullet, I definitely feel like it’s the fastest train I've been on since being in Japan.
I manage to get myself on an extremely packed bus to my Ryokan and after asking a couple of people arrive at the destination. Check-in is not for another 1.5 hours so I drop my bag and head out exploring. First stop is somewhere for lunch.
Now that I'm full up from a tasty lunch I'm set. I am enjoying the number of Japanese ladies who are wearing the traditional dress, Kimono's. All are different colours and patterns but equally pretty.
My Ryokan is right next to Yasaka-jinja, a shrine, so make this my first stop in Kyoto. The first thing that I notice is the bright colours then the second is all the A&P like stalls of games and of course selling food, no candy floss and hot dogs here though! Instead it's Japanese fast food.
After getting past the stalls I enter into the shrine complex and enjoy standing watching people - some are giving money praying then ringing a bell, others are taking photos and others are like me and taking it all in. Not really a place you could spend long.
I walk straight into Maruyama-koen, one of the cities parks, and come across groups of people sitting under what I assume are the cherry trees on blue tarpaulin. Given the weather recently I'm thinking they will be waiting for a few days yet. After walking through the initial entrance surrounded by other people I'm on my own enjoying the quietness along with the well-manicured gardens.
I had worked out a few things to do this afternoon that were in the area of my Ryokan and was amazed three out of the five things had gone to plan. This of course means things are about to change....one of the famous temples is off the park but locating it turned out to be a little tricky. In the end I found it, however was entering through the back gate not the main one. Ooh well.
Chion-in was established in 1234 on the site where one of the most famous figures in Japanese Buddhism died. The temple's giant bell, which weights a massive 70 tonnes and is the largest bell on Japan, was what got me to the temple. Unfortunately the main temple was closed for renovations however I did enjoy wondering around the large complex. I believe it wasn't as busy as it usually is due to renovations.
I decided given I had entered not through the main gate I needed to exit there. Wow wow wow, not only huge but also very impressive.
Next door to the Chion-in complex is Shoren-in, another temple. This one probably a quarter of the size but equally impressive with gardens to match. Am sure due to the price to enter there wasn't as many people around which sorted me fine.
After having the tea ceremony, once I'd been shown to my room, I was in need of something stronger. Dinner wasn't until 7pm so I had an hour to explore.
My room overlooks a small garden on one side and the other onto the street. Thankfully I have my own bathroom! On walking up the steep stairs (must remember not to drink too much otherwise I might fall down!!) I was shown the public baths – not sure if I'll be brave enough to go in. On entering the room there is a table and two feet less chairs. I've read on the website that my bed will be made once I'm at dinner.
I found it harder to find a bar than I did in Tokyo and Hiroshima, then once I did was quite nervous to go into one. Found a small cute bar that had an English menu, most helpful, with a lady landlord who made me write in a visitors book.
I had elected to have the kaiseki dinner at the hotel tonight, for tomorrow I will see how it goes. I was worried about experiencing dinner, which id been told I need to allow 2 hours, on my own in my room so was pleasantly surprised when they led me to the restaurant. I was of course eating by myself and couldn't understand a thing that was said around me but it was nicer than being in my room.
In-between courses (more on this later) I researched my plan of attack. I need to make sure it's not all about temples and shrines otherwise I will be over it before I even start!! I saw a lot of people on bikes today so may hire one for tomorrow - means I get to cover a lot more ground that on my feet, plus my poor feet get a bit of a rest.
So back to dinner, I'm 5 courses in and loving everything about it!! Started off with a cherry blossom sake which had a small salted flavour cherry blossom in the bottom of the glass. This expanded once the same was poured in. One sip and I was needing food :) Didn't help that I had ordered sake as my drink! Out came a bamboo shoot, this was presented covered with what I assume is bamboo leafs on a two tiered plate. Delicious!
Abalone which I assume is what we in kiwi land call paua, is next along with mountain veges. A wee break in-between before a plate of sashimi with prawn, snapper and swordfish. YUM! To change tact completely the next course was a potato, onion and turnip soup which like everything else I've eaten tonight delicious!
Another small break (allows me to research things to do tomorrow) then cutlass fish which was grilled and served with radish and lime.
My waitress then brings out a single gas hob followed by a hot liquid, she blanches the mountain vege then the kyoto beef and within seconds I have my next course. So far my least favourite, however this is not saying it was bad.
Out comes a Moroccan tagine dish filled with a Japanese rice dish - spring onions, whole egg which is mixed on and an orange. When squeezed gives an amazing taste to the rice. Shortly after trying this a small plate of mustard leafs and slices of radish appear along with a mug of brown tea.
I'm about to head to my room for the night when another plate appears – orange dessert of some kind in an orange, small rice cake and green tea warmish drink (gross tasting!).
I had been told the walls are very thin in a Ryokan and often you can hear the room next to you. Thank goodness that wasn't the case for me, however I did hear traffic noise which is something I definitely do not hear in Singapore.
After enjoying a local breakfast (which I'm pleased to add I did eat the majority off) I headed off in search of a bike hire place. What should have taken 3 minutes probably took 15-20 minutes as I had a hard time locating it. Bike sorted, look out everyone!! I do find it very strange you bike here without a helmet, not how I was brought up!
I had a list of things I wanted to see today, the first being Nanzen-ji. It was near to the places I visited yesterday so headed off in that direction then was pleasantly pleased to find signs on the street - yay no more map reading (for now anyway)!
Nanzen-ji is a large complex made up of numerous sub temples and gardens along with the main temple. Have realized I'm going to get templed out very soon so may need to rethink my plan for the day.
Heading towards Tetsugaku-no-Michi (Path of Philosophy) I stop for coffee, clearly coffee is not on the breakfast menu in Japan.
I can definitely see why people talk about walking along the Tetsugaku-no-Michi as there are cherry trees everyone. Once they bloom it will be absolutely stunning. A shame it's too early for them.
I manage to get myself up a gradient on my bike to the Honenin Temple. The walkway to the actual temple is done with large stones with very high trees on the edges. Lovely and peaceful.
Back onto the bike along Tetsugaku-no-Michi to Ginkaku-ji where there is definitely an increase of tourists. On the street leading to the entrance there are countless food stalls - typical Japanese foods.
Next stop was the Ginkaku-ji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion) which had super manicured gardens including sand neatly racked and in shapes.
I decided to bike over to the famous Golden Temple which is on the opposite side of town. Had a couple of small issues getting there, thankfully not due to directions! Within seconds of getting going I fell off, whoops. I was trying to work out if you bike on the road or the footpath, in the end I did a bit of both.
The Golden Temple is very impressive site! Not as big as I expected though, it’s surrounding gardens were beautiful. So many people though you never got a 5 seconds alone!
I was now templed out so heading off in the opposite direction that I arrived with no fixed abode. I'm really enjoying being on a bike again, you definitely get to see so much more of a city in a short space of time.
After biking for what seemed like ages on both wide pavements then single lane pavements I was in need of lunch, turned off the main road and stopped at the first place I saw.
Now that I’ve refueled I heat off to Kiyomizudera (Pure Water Temple), managed to get the majority of the way on my bike before having to get off. It was a very steep hill going up and with cars and people everywhere not easy to bike. On reaching the top I couldn’t find somewhere to pack my bike and really was over temples/shrines. Instead I enjoyed people watching.
Walking down the hill from the Kiyomizudera two real Geisha pass me - I feel very lucky to have seen them and now understand why they are such a national treasure.
I continue on with my biking going in and out all of the small streets around Gion. Need to focus more now given the number of people on the streets have increased tenfold. By accident I come across Shimbashi a famous street which I had wanted to visit, it has traditional Japanese houses all along it. The street next door, which again I had wanted to see, Shirakawa-minami Dori is one of the most picturesque in Kyoto. If only the cherry blossoms were out it would be so much pretty.
I'm starting get a little tired now, it's been hard yaker going up some of the hills, plus I’m starting to notice I have a bit of a sore b-hind. I slowly make my way back to the bike hire place then walk back to the Ryokan.
After a brief rest I head out for dinner. I did want to have a drink first but it seemed impossible, the one place I did find told me "no seats" so instead I headed off for dinner. I think it was no tourists allowed.
After ordering a sake I was set - slowly the set menu came out. Salad followed by 3 pieces of tempura - shrimp sandwich, quail egg and ginkgo nut.
Within minutes I had my next 3 piece - scallop, shiitake mushroom shrimp and spring vegetable (looks like a spring onion to me). Shortly followed by another two, sweet potato and wrap the squid with penlla leaf, really not sure how much more tempura I'll be able to take.
Thankfully there is a break before the next lot comes out - 2 shrimp, eggplant, fish and corn. And that ends the Tempura :)
After dinner I wonder down the small alleys back to my Ryokan, you definitely feel safe here which is great. Think I walked through the red light district which was funny!
As no one was in the communal bath I decided to give it a try, talk about H O T. Took more than a few minutes to get in but once I got use to it, it was lovely. Much needed to soak my weary legs and b-hind. Tomorrow is another day.
Saturday I woke to rain, my last day in Japan is exactly like my first, I knew there was a reason I'd been holding onto the umbrella I brought on day one. I have one sight I want to see today then will take it from there. For now, a local Japanese breakfast of cooked rice, miso soup, 9 kinds of obanzai (tapas), and grilled fish.
It's still raining cats and dogs so I decide to head to the train station to see if I can get on an earlier train, if not then will re-assess. It’s just too wet to do any sight-seeing which is disappointing as there are two things I really wanted to see before leaving.
After standing in a very long JR pass line I decide to join the other line, all I'm wanting to do is to cancel the seats I had previously reserved and reserve another seat. I did have the pleasure of seeing 3 ladies dressed as Geisha handing out things which was way cool!
Seats changed, Tokyo here I come.
I had thoroughly enjoyed my time in Kyoto and was disappointed the revolting weather today stopped me seeing more. I do hope one day to return and next time spend more time here.
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