After what seemed like hours I finally arrived in Milano, I was up before we had come to a complete stop and was ready to run to purchase tickets to San Bonifacio - who was I kidding there will be no running!!! Just super fast walking. Thankfully I'd been to this station a couple of times so knew where the ticket machines were, no time to stand in line.
The pressure was on, I had 10 minutes to buy my ticket and get onto the train - shit it's going to be tight. I had never noticed before "helpers" around the machines, the one I got put me off and delayed me a few precious seconds. Finally I'm set, money in
(fingers crossed I get change back), waiting for tickets to print.
Now I really do need to run back upstairs and to my train, thankfully the platform wasn't at the other end of the station. As I was walking to my carriage the conductor blew his whistle, yes yes I'm getting on now. Phew I made it!!! The train is by no means full, no more than 6 people in my car, so I have a full 4 set to myself. Now to catch my breath.
We are 5 minutes late getting into Verona so I have to make a mad dash from one platform to another and boy it's hot hot hot! Getting onto the train was a little bit of an effort.....I'm definitely on an older train as there are no steps to assist the shorter people.
Finally got off my last train for the day, now to take the bus to Soave my destination for the next two nights. Now this sounds nice and easy doesn't it - well with me it's never nice and easy and there is always a story. On walking out of the tiny station I don't see a bus nor a bus stop, so I ask the so not friendly lady selling train tickets if she knows anything - nothing. Brilliant. So I ask a couple about to get into a car, they aren't sure either but go and ask the so not friendly lady. I have same instructions so am off. Now I need to add it's bloody hot and I have a pack that weights at least the same size as a father elephant!!
When I travel around Asia I'll be taking my credit card, passport and camera only. Anyway back to finding this bloody bus - in the end I ask an older couple. They cannot speak English but we can communicate enough through Italian. They take me to a bus stop but I don't see the town I'm going too listed so we start walking and walking, have I mentioned the heat and elephant?, and finally get to the bus station. This is like no other bus station I've ever seen - there is only one other person around. They make sure there is a bus for me, I have a 30 minute wait, then set off. I'm over whelmed with their assistance and tell them over and over grazie grazie. I see a park bench and literally sprint over, I had to sit down. Unfortunately it was in the direct sun light but that didn't stop me.
Right on quee the bus appeared and on I got. I was beginning to wonder if I'd be spending a night in San Bonificao but it all worked out in the end. Fortunately the bus stops directly outside my hotel, thank you god!!! Then it's a hop, step and jump to reach the walled "city".
Soave is a small town about one hours drive (by car) from Venice surrounded by wineries.
Given I'd booked the hotel last night I was amazed at the size of the room - huge. I had a king and single sized bed. Dropped my elephant and hand luggage and headed out to explore Souve. As it's Sunday basically everything is closed, this meant not that many people were out and about so wandering around the streets was lovely. Walking up the main road I noticed a band setting up, and a couple of cafes/bars open. Thank goodness for this I was super thirsty and in need of wine after 1 car ride, 5 train rides, walking for Africa with my elephant and 1 bus ride.
I wandered the streets first, stopping in at the Il Duomo - Chiesa di San Lorenzo then another Church, Chiesa di Santa Maria di Montr Santo dei Padri Domenicani. This was now housing an art show.
Right time for that drink - sitting outside in the warm weather, listening to the live music while drinking a glass of the local wine, a lovely way to end the day.
I went in search of the two restaurants the hotel recommended, one was MIA so the pizzeria was the winner. Within 5 minutes of sitting outside at least 4 tables arrived, I'd got the last table outside :)
Monday morning I was up early, had breakfast in the hotel then headed up to the Castle. I wanted to get up there before it got too hot, however on leaving the hotel just after 10am I realised I'd already missed that boat!! Ooh well onwards and upwards. I got right to the top and would you believe it the Castle is closed on Mondays - bloody receptionist had told me it was open. Needless to say I was far from impressed with him!! At least I know what the deal is for tomorrow.
The views of Soave and the surrounding areas (mainly rows and rows and rows of grapes) from the top were amazing. Now I need to work out how to get to those rows :)
Walking back down to the city I decided to walk around in search of somewhere to go for coffee. There were a lot more places open and people around than last night. Nothing really jumped out so I headed back to where I'd had a glass of wine last night. I was super surprised to see a couple of men sitting drinking a glass of wine at 11am....I would be tipsy after one drink given the heat and time of day :)
Went back to the hotel to get a bike and after a short while was off. Decided to bike to San Bonifacio (where I'd arrived in by train yesterday) for a look see. As most of you know directions aren't my strong point so after I'd been told where to go by an Italian in half Italian half English I made him say it again and I took notes!!! This was going to be an interesting ride. He had been the one who gave me the wrong info on the castle so I really wasn't sure if he was sending me on a wild goose chase.
Within a few minutes of cycling I noticed things from the bus yesterday so knew I was heading in the right direction. It was wonderful to be on a bike again, every time I get on one I remember how much I love to bike. Wherever I live next (let's not get into this right now) I'll be getting a bike.
San Bonifacio was like a ghost town and with no bike lock I just rode around. Found a cycle path at the back of the town and hoped it would take me all the way back to Soave, driving on the main road with lots of cars and trucks was a little scary. Luck was not on my side but never to mind, at least I knew this route. On arrival into Soave I cycled around, it was great being so close to the vines - I could literally reach out my arm and touch huge brunches of grapes.
It was basically 2pm and I remembered that places close for lunch so found the first place and decided it would be rude not to try a glass of the local wine. Had delicious pasta with prawns, aah the Italian food.
Thought it would be best to bike off some of the vino and pasta so headed off inside the walled city, I had walked a lot of it last night so headed out the opposite end to where my hotel is. I was pleased when I came across rows and rows of vines where I could stop and snap away. Back into the walled city and around to my hotel. If only I had a lock I could have stayed out for much longer.
By this stage it was mid afternoon, to say the sun was at full heat is an understatement! I took cover for a few hours in my room and made good use of the free wifi.
It was now vino-o'clock so headed back into the heat, I must say it's bearable to be outside not like HK in the hot months.
I went to my local enoteca (where I'd come last night and this morning), got a glass of the local vino and sat watching the world pass by. Yes I've said it before - a great way to end a great day.
The receptionist at the hotel had changed as I'd returned from my bike ride so went back and got a restaurant recommendation from them.
I really wanted to have risotto as I'd had pasta for lunch, unfortunately it was for two people so it's a no go. Buggar. Oh well I'm sure I biked enough to have two lots of pasta in one day. Definitely something I don't want to be doing again otherwise it will be two seats on my return flight thank you very much!
Tuesday morning I had the dreaded task of packing up again, I put it off and off until the last possible moment. I'd left it too late to visit the Castle so went for my daily espresso and people watched. There are definitely a lot more people sound and shops opened today than there has been over the past two days. I've been very lucky that some places were opened given Italy comes on a grinding holt in August.
Was going to head up to one of the palaces but remembered a winery just up from my entoca so headed there instead for some wine tasting, it has to be vino-o'clock somewhere in the world!!
Am so pleased I did, not just for the great local wines but because I met a couple from Canada on a private tour. Had a couple of hours with them which was great, they had a car so we went off up into the hills.
Much further than I'd biked yesterday. The winery we were at had a farm stay so we stopped in, the views were out of this world! It was so peaceful sitting there chatting. Time passed to quickly and it was time to return to my hotel to collect my bags and head to Venice.
I've had a great 36 + hours in Soave and am so pleased I came. Now its off to Venice I go!
I had been very good and done research, both on the internet and with the front desk, on getting to Venice. I was to take a bus to Verona then train into Venice. This was all well and good until the receptionist kindly informed me that I was actually going backwards and it was much quicker to take the bus to San Bonifacio then train from there. The next bus to San Bonifacio was in 50 minutes so I decided to go ahead with my plan, plus I'd also purchased my bus ticket at vast expense.....EUR 2.80 :) Well I was waiting waiting waiting and no bus turned up, just my luck. In the end I took off my elephant and waited some more. Finally a bus turned up but its going to San Bonificao instead, who cares I'm getting on! Quick trip to the train station and I was super pleased to see I had 15 minutes until the next train to Venice. Something was finally going my way. Got onto the platform and the pack came off, needed to air my t-shirt in the breeze. (Yes I realize it's too much information but it's good for me to look back in years to come and remember the heat.) The train arrived right on time and within a few minutes we were off. I can now sit, relax and see the beautiful countryside. I had no idea how long the journey was to be but was happy when I started to recognize places I'd been too before - I was less than 30 minutes from Venice when the fun would start.
I either have to walk to the house, which I have to say is a new one for me or take a vaprotto then walk. Am thinking the second option as there are SO many bridges plus it's hot hot hot. Either way I'll be walking some of the way and I'm sure getting myself lost in the small alleyways.
Ciao tutti.
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