My trip to Tokyo started rather early on Saturday, June 27th. I know I've said previously, never again for a morning flight but I obviously forgot this when I was booking my flights!!!! On my bus ride to the airport I listened to the best hits of Michael Jackson, RIP. We had typhoon signal 3 last night so the view into Central was really clear, its come and cleared all the fog/pollution and thankfully humidity away. (Sorry side note.)
Ok back onto Tokyo, this is one of the places along with Vietnam, that I've always wanted to visit in Asia so I'm super excited to be going - worse than a kid in a candy store I think. I think its quite fitting that I'm going to spend my 9 years out of Kiwi-land anniversary there. Am trying to rack my brain from my St Margaret's (high school) Japanese lessons and only 1-10, yes, hello, thank you are coming back. Let's hope its just because its still early and once I'm there I'll remember I lot more.
On check in at the airport I was going to ask for an upgrade but decided not too - they always say no. Had my customary stop in the lounge before boarding the plane. On passing the gate my boarding pass was rejected, I wasn't pleased and had no idea why. The lady asked me to stand to the side, however before then I saw on the computer screen "change seat, 12G". Ooh is 12G business class? My heart rate picked up and within a few seconds I had a new boarding pass for business class. Ye ha! Great start to my Tokyo holiday. On boarding the plane got a class of champagne before even sitting down. So much for reading my lonely planet on the journey - that is second on my list, first being enjoying business class. Yes its the small things that amuse me. Had a good flight to Tokyo - service and food was great. Now have a new favourite drink, champagne and drambuie with lemon zests. Oh so good.
On arrival into Tokyo airport I realised how clean and straight forward Japan is. The woman's bathrooms are labeled pink, the men's blue. Getting through immigration was easy with my APEC card, such a great investment! Collected my bag and was out in the big wide world of Tokyo. My eyes were darting everywhere, trying to take everything in. Managed to find the airport limousine counter (don't get too excited its the name of the buses) and thankfully the airport limousine I needed leaves in 10 minutes. Walked outside and was struck with the heat - its 30 degrees. I'd come to Tokyo to have some cooler weather. They had 2 people per airport limousine stop - one to announce the buses coming, collect the tickets and advise the driver he can leave. The other person gets people into line, gives out baggage tags and loads the bags. We had a couple of stops before we finally left the airport - each time we leave a bus stop the airport limousine staff would bow at the driver. On leaving the airport I saw a temperature clock - 32.9. Wholly heck its hot! After about 1.5 hours I arrive at the Grand Hyatt hotel where Sunny was there to meet me, a lovely surprise. We walked back to her place, through Roppongi area (shops, restaurants, bars, office buildings). It was nice to be outside to fresh air and walking down with streets without half the world!!!! There are vendor machines everywhere for rinks and smokes. There is not a chance you would go thirsty in this city. Relaxed at Sunny's place for awhile then walked to Tokyo Midtown for dinner of Don Kutsu. While waiting to get into the restaurant I had a quick look at the fruit section of a supermarket. Wow! I can't see me buying fruit while I'm here - YEN580 for 1, yes 1, peach, YEN480 for around 20 cherries. Dinner was absolutely delicious, ye ha Japanese food in Japan! One thing I did notice is that you sit next to your guest, not opposite. This is where I came across the first of I'm sure many language barriers. There was no menu in English, after Sunny had rang a friend to ask him what we were suppose to be eating she set too and spoke to the waitress. Amazing! We ended up with a glass of some type of Japanese alcohol. So it ended very well! After dinner walked into the park area - all very well kept, with sculptures. Was great being able to be outside and not be in a sweat ball (now I realise some of you in winter won't be able to understand that but its hot and humid in HK so stepping out of a/c is not fun!). Walked back through Roppongi area where there were lots more people around, and to a sports bar, with mainly ex-pats, to meet up with one of Sunny's friends. You could have thought you were in any English speaking country. Saw the first half of the Lions v's SA game before walking back to Sunny's.
Sunday morning I woke early to the birds chipping and the light. Thank goodness for my eye mask. We decided to leave Tokyo for the day, for Kamakura. After walking to the subway, and seeing SO many police, we took a subway to Tokyo station then a train to Kamakura. There is a melody played right before the doors close, which Sunny tells me is on every subway. When I first heard it I thought it was someone's cell phone ringing.
From Kamakura we took a smaller train to Enoshima, where I tried to buy an umbrella (unfortunately sold out) then headed to Bills Cafe (famous Australian chef) for brunch. On arrival was told the wait was going to be 2 hours. Wow wee this place must be great as that's a heck on a long time! So we went back to the train station and took a train to Hase, where the first thing I brought was an umbrella. Here I saw the Hasa-dera, a temple overlooking the bay. There were many Hydrangea flowers surrounding the temple which were rather pretty, if you like hydrangea's. Half way up the stairs I noticed my camera was a little wet and wondered how that had happened. Then I felt rain drops on my arms...again very odd. I then realised my recently brought umbrella was leaking! On leaving the temple area I saw ladies sitting writing calligraphy, one I saw was drawing free hand the others tracing.
From here we walked along the narrow footpaths to the Great Buddha of Kamakura, I went in and Sunny went shopping. The Great Buddha, completed in 1252, is cast in bronze and the statue is 11.4m tall. Its certainly a great site made better by the fact that nothing else is around it. There were at least 3 men in Japanese dress standing looking at the Buddha chanting, a site I could have sat and watched for hours.
By this stage our 2 hour wait was nearly over so we headed back to Bills, had a brief wait before finally getting a table. The views of the ocean were great, a shame it was raining as it would have been great sitting there with the doors open, sun blaring down with the sea breeze. There were a few surfers out trying to catch a wave but I couldn't see that happening for awhile as it was rather flat. Brunch was very good, I had a Kiwi/Aussie brunch of corn fritters then scones with jam and cream. A strange combination but tasted very good! From brunch we got back on the train and went to the first town we arrived at this morning. The weather seemed to be getting worse so we decided to head back to Tokyo, and unfortunately got on the wrong train. Thankfully there was someone who was able to assist us, and sent us on the right way.
We had dinner near to the house, Japanese noodles and dumplings, before going back to Sunny's and relaxing. It had been a long but fun day.
Monday morning started nice and early, however it was nice to feel cooler than yesterday. I walked to the subway with Sunny and experienced my first, of I'm sure many, pushing to allow more people on. Sunny had said the subway wouldn't be packed at 7am, I'd hate to see what packed is as this is definitely packed!!! I managed to change subways and thankfully get on the right one. Arriving at my station was ok, until I couldn't find the right exit I was suppose to take. All ended ok though when I found the building, only small issue was I was very early, 7.45am, and no one was in yet. Decided to wander down the street and came across a small park, sat and watched everyone rush by to get to work on time.
When I finally got into the office I had some issues getting into my pc.....for one the keyboards here are very different to what I'm use too!
Went out for lunch with 2 ladies from the office, 1 who use to be in the Hong Kong office up until 3 weeks ago. Was great to go out with the locals and experience Japanese food through them. As the menu was all in Japanese they needed to read it for me, I felt like a 5 year not being able to read yet kept looking at the menu in the hope I'd be able to understand and read it......I think not!
The bathrooms were quite different. First visit I nearly jumped out of my skin. Walking int0 the cubical the toilet seat was down, no worries I thought I can lift it. On closing the door I heard a noise and literally jumped - on turning round it was the toilet seat opening automatically. Saved me a job :)
At 5.10pm there was a bell in the office that went off, reminded me a bit of what I use to wake up too every morning at boarding school. I heard it this morning at 8.40am but had no idea what it was. This time I asked someone - it was informing everyone it was the end of the day. The working hours are 8.40am to 5.10pm, so a bell goes at both times to inform workers to start working and to end working. No one left at 5.10pm so I wasn't about to start.
Monday night I had a dinner with my new team (I've recently moved jobs internally). We went to a yakatori restaurant recommended by someone in the office, and what a great recommendation it was! The meal was all in Japanese, again I found myself wanting to read the menu. We had a set menu with many different types of skewers, both meat and vegetables, with a delicious salt flavouring. I could be here all night! The skewers came out one at a time and left us all wanting more constantly!!! After dinner I had fun getting myself back to Sunny's house. Thankfully I had a vague idea where to go, although exiting the subway station proved a little tricky, didn't help that it was raining and as I didn't have my un-trust worthy umbrella was doing my best to walk under cover. Made it home in one piece but rather wet.
Tuesday I walked in the office again, and for dinner went out with my old team. It was great to finally met them face to face after having email and phone correspondence for one and a half years. We went to the famous Gompachi restaurant and ordered lots of small plates, most of them very good however I have to say not as good as last nights amazing meal. From Gompachi we went to Amber, a small cozy bar which we were told does amazing cocktails. Three of us had passion fruit martinis - I could have spent the night!!!!! Getting home was a small problem, and it wasn't due to the alcohol. We weren't near a subway so I had no idea which direction to go. Thankfully one of the ladies had lived in the area before so we jumped in a taxi and drove around until I saw something that I recognized. No easy feat in the dark and coming from a direction I hadn't done before. In the end in ended well and I was home safe and sound.
Wednesday morning after relaxing reading my book I left the house for Asakusa, one end of the Ginza line (subway). I stumbled across a large supermarket before leaving the subway station which had a vast array of food, it seemed you could buy all types of Japanese food. Not a chance you would go hungry. First stop for me though was coffee before I left my comfort zone to explore Asakusa.
I exited the subway station onto Nakamise-dori which is a pedestrianised shopping street selling everything from clothing, to nik naks, to food (am hoping there are no nasty beggars here....remember that from my trip to Shanghai). Walking up Nakamise-dori I came to Hozo-mon gate which you must pass to reach the Senso-Ji Temple. There are 3 large Japanese symbols hanging from the gate, all very impressive. The outside of the temple was being done up which was a shame as I'm sure its beautiful. Prior to entering the temple I noticed a water trough with long handled ladles. The water is used to purify yourself before entering. There is a picture showing the foreigners exactly how its been done. On entering Senso-Ji Temple I was struck with how big the space was, yet the area to pray was rather small. I believe this is one of the most visited temples in Tokyo. On exiting the temple I walked around the grounds seeing a 5 story pagoda and Yogodo Hall which was built in 1994 to commemorate the 1,200th anniversary of the birth of the monk who established Senso-Ji. From here made my way to Asakusa-Jinja Temple which is a lot smaller than Senso-Ji. It too has the water trough and next to no visitors which was nice. I enjoyed seeing groups of people and individuals sit on the outskirts of the pagoda and temples chatting, reading and eating. Lots of school children in uniforms seemed to be around, I noticed a group of boys who all had masks on the side of their faces and wondering what on earth they were up too.
After wandering around the streets/alleyways I decided to go on a river cruise to Hama Rikyu Onshi-Teien Garden, about a 30 minute cruise passing under a mere 13 bridges. (Tokyo has a ridiculous amount of bridges, at a stab in the dark I'd say there would be at least 1000 bridges.) The gardens is a traditional Japanese garden and I was told one of the finest in Tokyo. I had around 40 minutes walking around and loved the tranquilly of it. Looking up you see big buildings yet its so peaceful and you forget you are in the middle of Tokyo, the only noise coming from the different types of birds. The gardens were all very well manicured, with a few ponds (at least one being sea water) and old buildings. Would be lovely to take a picnic on a nice day and spend an afternoon.
For a late lunch I decided to choose something from me trusty lonely planet book. I'd had Okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) in Vietnam with Ange and Aaron but of course wanted to have it in Tokyo so here I am. I choose this restaurant as you cook the food yourself. I had a little trouble finding the restaurant so asked someone - in my no Japanese and his no English we made it. Thankfully they had an English menu so after choosing Gyuuten (minced meat, sliced beef, cabbage and egg) washed down with a draft beer I was brought my food in a bowl. The waitress kindly mixed it and put it on the hot plate, now up to be to cook it then flip it. Better hold off on drinking too much beer otherwise who knows how it will turn out. I managed to flip it, after a few attempts, then before long I had a waitress coming to divide it into pieces for me as well as adding the toppings - bonito flakes and a sauce mix of soy sauce, Worcestershire-style Japanese sauce and mayonnaise. She obviously thought I needed help. In her broken English she asked if I was happy with chop sticks, which I was.
After finishing lunch I wandered towards Kappabashi-Dori Street which houses kitchenware for restaurants and individuals. They also have a huge selection of plastic models of food. The majority I saw were oh so real, if you were hungry you would nearly bite into it! From here I kept wandering and found a sake bar. Decided on the tasting tray with 3 different sakes given I'm not familiar with Sakes. Each from a different region of Japan and all quite different in taste.
I decided to go to Ginza for a look around before meeting Sunny for dinner. From what I can tell, Ginza has lots of high end shops and as it was after 6pm there were lots of people around so I had to walk down the street with a purpose.....only problem was I had no purpose!
I met Sunny for dinner in the area she lives. I had wanted to eat Soba noodles or tempura and she found a restaurant that had both. Both were delicious - soba noodles seems so easy to do it may become by daily meal. One issue I see with this is you are suppose to slurp your noodles which enhances the flavour, I can't see me doing this given I was brought up that slurping your food is a no no.
Thursday morning I woke to rain, not something I like when sight seeing. I planned my day and set out with my umbrella that leaks, great not. Fingers crossed it doesn't rain all day!!! Otherwise I'll be looking like a drowned rat. I headed to the Omote-sando area. On leaving the subway station I enjoyed watching ladies choose the type of umbrella they wanted from a very fancy umbrella shop. I then realised I was super underdressed for this nice area of Tokyo. I'd been told there was a great souvenir shop so headed off to find it. Unfortunately it was closed....and after reading about it in my lonely planet book it did mention it closes on Thursday. Would have been helpful to read that before I went.....
I saw a sign advertising some cafes/food shops in a basement so headed there for coffee, to get out of the rain and a rethink of my next steps. I know there are things to see/do in this area but the rain puts a damper (he he) on it. After drying off I wandered along the main street of Omote-sando looking into a couple of shops, before entering into the Meiji Shrine park area which is 75 hectares. The Meiji Shrine is Tokyo's grandest Shinto Shrine. It was destroyed in WWII bombings and reconstructed in 1958. I found it to be very peaceful and enjoyed walking around without many tourists there.
From Meiji shrine I walked to Shibuya. Certainly a very different area to yesterday - a lot more people and a lot more modern (both fashion and buildings). From my quick insight into it I much prefer Asaukua. I wandered around for awhile looking for lunch before deciding on a place that does Don Kutsa, what I had on Saturday night. Definitely not as good but still very nice. It was still raining on and off so I took cover in a huge book store which had a small but good section of English books and magazine.
From here made by way to the famous Hachiko statue as well as the famous Shibuya crossing. While it was busy, I'm sure it gets much busier at peak times. I continued walking along to the Tepco Electric Energy museum. Parts of it were very interesting and I'm sure the rest of it would be if it was in English.
I'm now sitting at Starbucks watching over the famous and oh so busy Shibuya crossing. There are 5 crossings and given its just gone 5pm its busy! A great way to spend an hour just sitting watching everyone rush from one place to another.
I decided to take a look around the area so went on a random walk. Every street/alley I went down was super busy - lots of shops, bars and restaurants. Nothing in particular caught my eye so headed in the direction I'd arrived earlier in the day. Came across a small alley which had quite a lot of tiny bars, decided to go into one before heading in the direction of home. Well how glad am I that I did that! Just to set the scene, think of a tiny room with a bar and 7 seats and that's it. The ceilings were quite low, even I feel like I needed to duck to get in (ok I didn't but felt like I should otherwise I'd hit my head). I ordered a beer and within seconds was speaking to the only other person in the bar, Yakoria, who was a food critic. The bar lady, Hana, had owned this place for 24 years, and prior to this had been a secretary for around 20 years. I was told she was very pleased I was there and because of that she kept drinking. Apparently she doesn't usually drink. Shortly after my arrival the ladies friend arrived, he spoke no English so Yakori translated everything for me. They commented that I wouldn't have stayed if she wasn't there - they were probably right but that was due to the fact I had next to no money and every atm I'd tried wouldn't accept my card. Fingers crossed I find one tomorrow! I found out the man had recently been promoted, to who knows what, and had brought a new phone worth about YEN 95,000 (around USD1000).....Prada nonetheless. Why anyone would spend that amount of money on a phone is beyond me. Anywa7 its his money and life. Hana gave me and my new friends snacks - green beans with sesame seeds; rice sandwich; Potatoes, onions and bacon and a duck yutatori - all very nice.
After awhile Yakori came in search of an atm machine for me, unfortunately again none of the machines I tried accepted my card. So they were going to get all my coins, under 1000 YEN when I leave the bar. There were a couple of locals that came and went during my time at the bar. Around 9.30pm the Hana started to get worried about me getting home - I assured her I'd be fine. Thank goodness I had money on my subway pass. I finished my drink then the 3 of us left together - I gave them all the money I had an in return I got some coins back. Really not sure how or why.
Friday morning I relaxed for a bit at home before heading out to Shinjuku. Getting out of the subway seemed near impossible - this station is bigger than any other station I'd been to before and super busy with people everywhere!!! After asking someone for directions I was off, doing a walking tour from the lonely planet book. First stop was the Sompo Japan Museum of Art on the 42nd floor of a famous building. The views were great, would of course have been better if it wasn't so foggy/polluted. The museum has one of Van Gough's famous sunflower paintings which was by far the highlight. I could have spent hours looking at it. I believe the museum paid YEN 5 billion for it - certainly a large chunk of change!!!! I headed out onto the street again in search of the Penax Forum, after walking in and out of a couple of buildings (which I thought were the correct ones) I was set on my way. The Penax Forum has a huge array for cameras along with a great (local) photography exhibition. From here I visited Shinjuki Sumitomo building which has a public viewing floor. Like the first building I went too the view was amazing, shame about the weather. It was great to look down on Shinjuku and realise how much of a concrete jungle it is!
I had delicious soba noodles for lunch in one of the many basements of the buildings I was walking around. After removing myself from the restaurant, I was enjoying resting my legs, I headed off to the famous Tokyo Metropolitan Government building. This place was huge! They an 2 observation decks, both on the 45 floor. Again the views were great but had it been a clear day it would have been even better. Am sure you'd be able to see Mt. Fuji on a clear day.
From here I made by way to the Shinjyuku NS Building which has the worlds largest pendulum clock. Went up to the 29th floor and walked over the (110m) sky bridge. View not as good as the other buildings but still impressive. Makes you realise how much of a concrete jungle Shinkuku is.
Decided I'd seen enough of Shinjuku, and after speaking to a lady at the information centre in Tokyo Metropolitan Government building decided to try my luck in going to see the famous Imperial Palace. After walking for literally miles I got on the subway. I had another mission getting out of the station, this time because there are SO many exits, am sure the station spans a few km's. I was on the hunt for the Imperial Palace which is the permanent residence of Japan's emperor and imperial family. After walking for what seemed like ages I came to the palace's famous landmark, the double-barreled bridge. Wasn't too hard to spot in the end, I just had to look where there were people standing around. I couldn't get very close to the buildings but what I could see were two guards standing guard outside their own small hut, reminded me of the other palaces I've been to around the world. Like all other tourists I took quite a few photos of the double-barreled bridge. A Japanese lady saw me using the police officers hut to take a photo of myself and came running over to take a photo for me. Unfortunately I didn't have time to take self-service off so 10 seconds of smiling felt a very long time.
I wandered back towards the direction I'd arrived at until I found a cafe. Sat and relaxed until I had to met Sunny at Ginza stop. Arrived here before she did so had a few minutes watching the world go by. Sunny had been recommended a sushi restaurant for dinner so off we went to find that. Proved difficult to start with until we turned a corner and saw the line. Funnily enough the street was jammed packed with restaurants yet the one we were going too was the only one that had a line. After about 30 minutes the lady came out to get a table of 2, thankfully those in front of us (about 4 tables worth) all wanted smoking tables so we were in. This time there was an English menu so I got to and ordered. Always the way but once we had ordered we saw amazing sushi going by, one in particular caught our eye - Oyster. I'll definitely be making room for that. After dinner we walked around Ginza before heading home due to the rain. Neither of us had umbrellas so that put an end to walking around. Took the subway to Roppongi and took a different route home - it seemed like all the bars and restaurants were full. Being Friday night and all I wasn't surprised. There is definitely so much of this city I haven't seen.
Saturday morning relaxed for a bit before heading off to Roppongi. We were going to go to Harajuku but it would have been too rushed. Instead we went for brunch in Roppongi at a place Sunny knows the owner. Was yummy, definitely felt like I wasn't in Japan though as I had eggs Benedict. Walked back to Sunny's where I collected my bags and now in a taxi to the ANA hotel to take the bus to the airport. I've had a wonderful time in Tokyo and definitely hope to return here as well as other places in Japan.
We were getting close to the airport when we had to stop to go through a check - all passports were checked along with our luggage. Check in was easy, no mention of business class though :(
Am now on the plane and well and truly know I'm heading back to HK - everyone is so rude!!! Pushing and shoving, the total opposite I'd had all week. I think I need a drink!
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