I need to warn you that this is a VERY long email. Enjoy :)
Well my journey to Egypt started off in a normal way for me.....flight was delayed (surprise surprise! When are they ever on time?????) then we had the pleasure of sitting on the runway for at least 40 minutes. I'm certain I've seen every part of JFK runway this year!!! On the plus side I was upgrade to World Traveler Plus (one below business class) so I can't complain too much. (All it means is wider seats, which go back further and more leg room. Food is the same as economy. But hey I'm not complaining!).
We arrived in London to a beautiful day, million times better than what I left NYC. I shouted myself a day pass to the American Airlines Lounge where I showered, chilled and tried not to fall sleep until my flight to Cairo. (I really must invest in a years membership as its pure heaven being away from the rest of the millions at the airport.) I did venture out to visit one of my favorite British stores......Boots, where I stocked up on a few things. Crazy I know but its so much cheaper than buying things in the States (yes even with the exchange rate.) One strange thing I noticed, and freaked out about, was how they (the Brits) drive on the other side of the road. I nearly called out to the bus driver numerous times.
I do have to mention that I did have a small piece of Thanksgiving - Apple pie and custard on my flight :)
I'm now on the plane to Cairo - got chatting to a stewart who is from Kiwi land. Am hoping he may upgrade me....time will tell.
Unfortunately no upgrade but I did get an exit seat and the business class products with molton brown stuff. I've chatted to a few people on board who either live in Cairo or have been before. Everyone thinks I'll be fine by myself so feel a little better about it.
We landed early (which apparently never happens) and of course my guy wasn't there with a sign. Now I was really nervous! The guy I sat next to on the plane lives in Cairo so started calling people for me. Finally I saw a 'Sarah Jordan' sign., I was relieved. My sign guy got me the visa and away I went through customs. Really not good when you have NO idea what they were saying. Got my bags and out we went. Well what an experience. The airport wasn't as busy as what I expected. The airport area is in terrible condition. I was amazed at the poor quality of the roads, and not just at the airport but everywhere. There are traffic lanes however no one uses them, rather scary especially since large trucks drive on the highways. You toot toot and/or flash your lights to make the car in front of you move. We were going rather fast then came to a sudden stop in the middle of the highway, I was wondering if my tour was over before it had even began. Will my travel insurance cover this???? But no we were saying goodbye to my airport sign guy. Rather scary but it worked out ok. There were people standing on the highway everywhere - my rep advised they were waiting for a taxi or bus. It was pitch dark so good luck with that. I will NOT be trying that. People always run across the road - its kind of like chicken! Imagine people running across state highway 1 or a major freeway in the States, they really are asking for trouble.
There were a few small markets along the road, bear in mind its around midnight by now. After a couple of road blocks by the police we arrive at the hotel. A nice paradise to what is outside the gates.
Sleep time is definitely needed!!!
Today (Friday) I'm off to see one of the major things I came for......the Pyramids of Giza. I'm so excited! Then have an overnight train to Luxor, not as excited about this.
Wow I'm in Egypt!
The tour company has left me in a random hotel for a few hours before my overnight train to Luxor so I'm taking the time to chill and hopefully sleep.
Well what a day! First stop was the Pyramids at Giza. They were amazing, definitely not as large as I expected but still breath taking. Rather strange though to turn around the see the city of Cairo right there. There were people for Africa everywhere!!!! Lots of "dodgy brothers" which I seemed to attract.
I did a super short camel ride, in the desert, by the 3rd pyramid. View was amazing! And how often can you say you rode a camel at the Pyramids. Right at the end I decided to fall off - two little boys found it rather amusing. No damage other than to my ego and sand for Africa over me.
I decided to forgot about being claustrophobic and climb in one of the pyramids to see a burial chamber. Certainly a great experience but far too dark and too small a place for me!! A German guy decided to jump in and scare people when they had a look, quite funny. I was quite amazed that there weren't that many English speaking people around, I had expected more.
Next stop was the Sphinx where there were more than people for Africa. The noise was amazing. All the children wanted to say hello. The sphinx of course was great, again not as big I as expected but still fantastic to see it myself. (I've taken a million and one photos which will get online soon hopefully.) We managed to get through all the traffic (I could write a book about the traffic and I haven't even been here for 24 hours) to the Papyrus Temple. I was sweet talked into buying a couple of things. Rather impressive but do I really need them? They are famous Egyptian paintings on papyrus paper.
My guide got us lunch, looked ok and tasted fine. He then went and prayed while I helped a woman practice her English. (Which is such hard work. I really want to have a normal conversation. Luckily I see Ange in less than a week.) From here we left the city and headed out to Sakkara where the first pyramid was built. Very different to the Pyramids of Giza but still very impressive. I was told the area was/is known for the palm trees (sorry but I have to use my line......there were palm trees for Africa) and the pyramids. On the way there I saw numerous carpet schools, which after much consideration I won't be joining. Coming back into the city (to this random hotel) I was fortunate enough to spot some sheep markets on the side of the road. My guide told me its quite normal and would I like to buy a sheep :-). I declined for today.
After chilling out and watching BBC I decided to venture out by myself. It was safe and I even managed to find a supermarket to buy water. I'm close to a main street but was told by the hotel not to cross the road unless I wanted to be injured or die (refer to comment above). I decided against that, especially since its dark.
I was picked up at 7pm and taken to the train station where we had lots of time to kill, and some, as the train was late - Egyptian time I'm told. I entered my first Egyptian cafe where I got talking to an Irish couple as well as my rep Mohammad. Who by the way used to be married to a kiwi girl from Hamilton. (Never fear he has remarried so I'm ok! I learn as time goes on that your name is either Mohammad or Ahmed.)
I have been told numerous times my name is an Arabic name so I must do some research.
Am now on the sleeper train to Luxor - my cabin is rather small. No room to swing a cat, and if there were two people here it would be tight. Super basic with a small wash basin. Will be an interesting 9 + hour ride. Dinner has arrived - rice and beef as well as a fish dish. Both don't look that appetizing but I'm yet to try it.
Well I survived the train trip, managed to sleep a little in between the stops and starts, and recently got a wake up call (5.45am) that we will be arriving in Luxor soon. Breakfast looks much more appetizing than dinner (which I only ate the rice and bread) and consists of a piece of bread, one bread roll, one croissant and a slice of some description. All carbs.
Seeing the sun rise made up for the lack of sleep and 5.45am wake up call - what an amazing site! We finally pulled into Luxor just before 7am, why such an early wake up call is beyond me but the sun rise did make up for it!
Now would be a good time to go and get a tea/coffee or cold drink, as I've only written about one day. Since I'm writing this each day I don't need as many breaks!!!!
Luxor train station is in much better condition that the one in Cairo (I was told later in the day that it was rebuilt a couple of years ok.) My Luxor rep (Hussein) met me off the train and informed me we were 2 hours late. I was secretly pleased!! I couldn't imagine an earlier wake up call. There were lots of men around calling tax tax, probably double the amount of taxi guys to people needing a taxi. I was amazed at how quiet Luxor was compared to Cairo. The driving was still the same though. I was taken to my hotel where I had the morning to myself. Slept for a bit then sat by the pool. Was so hard to believe it was winter back home! I can't wait to get to Dahab so I can do more of this!!!
I had lunch sitting on the Nile......what a life.
I was picked up at 1.30pm by my rep and guide (Ahmed). First stop were the Karnak Temples. What an amazing site - I could have spent hours just wondering around. I was amazed at the history of the place which is all dedicated to the Theban gods and the pharaohs. The area spans about 1.5km by 800m HUGE. So far this has been my favorite place.
I walked five times around the stone statue of a scarab beetle, 3 times is good luck and 5 times is marriage. 7 times mean you will get pregnant so I decided to stop at 5! The statue was given to the god of the rising sun.
From here we went to the Luxor Temple which is much smaller but still impressive. At both sites in my free time I was approached by the locals wanting to show me a great site.....read into this "I'll show you a great photo place, you give me money". I tried declining but it wasn't working, so my new line is 'I can't take a photo as I have no money'. Of course they say no problem take the photo which I do, and they then expect money. I'm sure they yell abuse in Arabic.
I had the pleasure of seeing the sun set while at Luxor Temple - a great site which I hope to see again before leaving Egypt. (By the way I'm not sure if I will leave......even with all the hassle I get, read below, its an amazing country and the people are friendly and helpful.) Ahmed and I had a ball - he is so great, don't worry he won't be returning to the states with me as he is engaged to his cousin.......of course I'm going to need counseling to get over this!
I had the evening to myself and as much as I wanted to go out walking I was very nervous. It gets dark around 5pm here. After prepping myself and covering up off I went.....I hadn't even left the hotel grounds when it all started. Tax tax taxi; what is your name; you are beautiful; I remember you forever; horse ride; spicy girl. (In my guide book it has Luxor being the hassle capital of Egypt...they are definitely correct.) I did walk up the road a bit and looked in a few shops which seem geared to the tourists. Hence why everyone's English is good. I decided to come back to the hotel for dinner as I was over the hassle. I know its harmless but its frustrating not being able to walk anywhere without people staring and talking to you and wanting you to enter their shop.
So I sat overlooking the Nile eating my pasta meal - at least I ate Egyptian at lunch time!!!!
Sunday morning (day 4) started early, 6.30am, the sun was rising so my day started perfectly again. I had breakfast overlooking the Nile, another beautiful day in paradise. I made a comment to an Australian guy that it was nice to hear English.....he informed me he wasn't speaking English, he was speaking Australian and there was a difference. Oh dear my conversation ended before it began.......damn Aussies :-)
Ahmed and my new driver arrived shortly after 8am. We headed off to the West bank to visit the Valley of the Kings, Deir al-Bahri (Temple of Hatshepsut), Valley of the Queens and the Colossi of Memnon. It was super hot at 8am, would hate to be traveling around here in the peak of summer.
First stop was the Valley of the Kings, which is a place of death. Nothing grows on the cliffs. The tombs were started on the first day the Pharaoh started his reign. If they finished the burial room and he is still alive they made a corridor behind then kept adding rooms until he died. They then had 70 days (which is how long the mummification process takes) to decorate. I went into three tombs - Tomb of Ramses IV, Tomb of Tuthmosis III (hidden in the hills which you get too by a steep staircase), and Tomb of Ramses IX. All very different but very impressive. There were some parts that were unfinished.
Deir al-Bahri (Temple of Hatshepsut) was our next stop. This was an impressive temple that is three terraces. A lot had been damaged. This is the place I became famous.........I was asked to have my photo taken with some school girls and their teacher. Ahmed found it very funny and said I will now be on the classroom wall. I asked them for money but they just looked strangely at me. Ahmed and I had a laugh about it. (All the 'guards' are always asking for tip money so I thought I should too.)
Next stop was the Valley of the Queens where I entered two tombs - Tomb of Amunherkhepshef and Tomb of Khaemwaset. Amunherkhepshef was the son of Ramses III and was around 10 years old when he died. There is as mummified five month old fetus on display in the burial chamber which I found rather odd. The next tomb, Titi, was the smallest I've been into but definitely just as impressive as the others.
Last stop was the Colossi of Memnon which is a massive pair of statues.. Apparently they are the first monuments you see when you arrive on the West bank.
Had lunch back at my hotel sitting on the Nile, then have the rest of the day (until my overnight train leaves) to myself. Ahmed told me he would come and collect me and take me to his house. After waiting an hour for him I decided to venture out by myself, silly move as the hassle began. I came back to the hotel to watch the sun set and was told in broken English that a man had come looking for me. A shame I had missed him as it would have been good to see an Egyptian house. Oh well. He is off my list now.
I needed to get water so made a bee line for two couples as they were leaving the hotel (safety in numbers!) I walked down the street with them and we were still hassled.
A random guy (he had come this morning with the rep so at least I had some idea of who he was) came to the hotel to collect me for the train station....honestly this place is unreal! We arrived super early to the train station so I had to endure having a drink with him. Although it wasn't so bad talking to him and his brother (who just happened to be at the train station) I learnt a lot about their culture. We got talking about smoking and drinking and he asked me if I drink in front of my mother……well I nearly choked on my diet coke. He couldn't believe that I do.
Ahmed called too to apologize which was nice. So he's back on the good list!!! :-) The train arrived and left late (surprise surprise) so I'm hoping this means I won't get such an early wake up call.
Wake up call came at 6.20am with no sun rise :-( An interesting journey this time not helped by the fact I'd had a diet coke before getting on board, lots of towns were having a party so sleep didn't really happen until nearly 2am. I'm glad to be staying in the same hotel for two nights.
I arrived to Giza station with no Mohammed.....not a good feeling when all of the train station is staring, where do you look???? :-)
I went to the hotel showered and had breakfast then my day began.
First stop was the Egyptian museum which was just huge! If you spent one minute looking at everything it would take you nine months to get through it!! Abdoel gave me an hours tour then I had a short time by myself. The highlights were definitely Tutankhamun Galleries, were I saw the four shrines and his death mask. The other highlight (although I'm not sure I would call it a highlight!!!) was the Royal Mummies Hall where there are 12 mummies. Abdoel came in with me and held my hand the whole time as he knew I would be a little scared, well how right he was!!!! I was amazed at how real they are - you can actually see the hair, nails (both hands and feet) and teeth. Very amazing. I looked at a few more rooms before leaving.
Citadel of Salah al-din was the next stop. - it was the home to Egypt's rulers for 700 years. We visited the Mosque of Mohammed Ali (my first time in a Mosque I think) which was amazing! So huge and so beautiful. I'm hoping the photos will do it justice. The view of Cairo from the Citadel was great - you could see the Pyramids.
Lunch we had in the car, the same yummy noodle dish I had on my first day.
Old Cairo was where we headed next. The tiny alleyways reminded me of Europe. We (Abdoel and I) visited The Hanging Church which is built on top of the Water Gate of Roman Babbylon. I was amazed that there was a church in Cairo. Apparently 10% of Egyptians are Coptic Christian. Also in Old Cairo was the Ben Ezra Synagogue which is the oldest in Egypt. Again my first time visiting a Synagogue.
I am astonished to learn the men sit/sat on the ground floor and the woman on the first floor. There was even a separate entrance and exit for the woman.
We made a super quick stop to the Four Seasons Hotel for the bathroom - both Abdoel and I (ok more me!!) wish we could have moved in. Such an amazing hotel!! He kept saying for the rest of the day its the best bathroom he's ever been in.
You remember above the comment about crossing the road.....well we did! And what fun that was. We made it safely across and boarded a felucca for a cruise down the Nile. The sun was slowing setting which made it all so special.
Back into the crazy traffic where we headed out of the city to visit a perfume place. At the end of it both my arms were rather smelling.....Abdul said I wouldn't need to shower for a few days. I enjoyed the journey there and back, so many things to look at.
Last stop was Khan El Khalili (markets) where Abdoel let me loose, not before give me some tips and ensuring I was strong enough to tell people no! Its a huge area which has everything from antiques to brass work to perfumes to tourist stuff. I was 'attacked' as soon as entering and was about to walk straight out when I heard an American girl. So I tagged along with her and her mother and we managed to barter with them. Again safety in numbers. I definitely wouldn't have been able to do it by myself.
Abdoel brought me two roses and a small woman figure on a necklace.....don't worry he is married with two children. I was so touched!
Today certainly was a great day - I saw so many things, as well as numerous streets that I'm sure not everyone gets to see. Its strange seeing camels, donkeys, horses, buffalos and cars all sharing the same road.
I was very sad saying goodbye to Abdoel - firstly I knew I wouldn't see him again and he really made my time in Cairo and secondly how on earth was I going to manage tomorrow on my own!!!!!!
I had dinner in the hotel with an older English couple. Nice to have a normal conversation.
Today (Tuesday) I had by myself, certainly not something I want again!!! I decided to go walking however every second car that drove by was a taxi so I was tooted at more times than I can remember. I did manage to cross the road by myself numerous times which was a great achievement!
I visited the Museum of Egyptian Modern Art which I found very interesting. And saw the Opera House where the Cairo Film Festival is housed. Got myself lost, not good considering I can't speak Arabic.
I was near the hotel when an elderly gentlemen started talking to me. I thought it was harmless but the next thing I knew I was inside his shop. What an experience - 'there is no hassle here, what do you like I make you special price'. If there is no hassle stop trying to sell me something! After about 20 minutes I managed to get out by saying I was tired and needed to sleep.
I then headed to the Nile to walk along but unfortunately there are restaurants etc so you are just walking along the street. Not at all what I had imagined. Oh dear being in Cairo on your own isn't fun. I returned to the hotel and along the way, yes you guessed it, saw the elderly man. He wasn't pleased I had lied to him. Since he is close to the hotel I will now stay put until 6.30pm when I'm going out with Heba who works for the tour company I have just used.
I have been fortunate not to be woken by the call of prayer at 5am, however I certainly hear it during the day.
I had a couple of hours out with Heba, Reham (her sister) and Jannah (her daughter). They picked me up at the hotel so I had the pleasure of driving in rush hour traffic again. We had dinner, Koshary (noodle dish with lentils and tomato sauce) sitting down at a restaurant. Its the same thing I've had for lunch a couple of times. Its very good and very cheap - 5EGP which is less that 1USD. Heba told me the place we ate at is the best in Cairo. After dinner we had a wonder around the shops, where the Egyptians shop. One side of the street was shoe shop after shoe shop.....I was in heaven! They put me in a taxi back to the hotel, I was nervous about it but thankfully it worked out perfectly fine. On the way we were given a fireworks show - my taxi driver tried so hard to communicate with me but it just wasn't happening.
It was great to get out with some locals and experience Egypt with them. Heba has told me I must come back in their down time so she can show me around the country. Its a strange feeling knowing I'm leaving tomorrow, but I'm really looking forward to seeing Ange.
Well I must have been dead yesterday morning at 5am as I certainly heard the morning prayer call this morning.....how on earth I missed it yesterday is beyond me!
I'm leaving Cairo today for Sharm El Sheikh where I'm meeting Ange. Its a weird feeling leaving. I was picked up at the hotel and taken to the airport. Once the airport guy had left me I was 'attacked' by a man selling food. The flight to Sharm is only an hour then I have two and a half hours wait until Ange arrives.
One thing I've noticed is a lot of people have all the modcons - new cell phones, fancy clothes etc.
You have probably heard its the Pope's first visit to a Muslim country........he and I have something in common as its my first time as well :-)
After amazing views of Mt Sinai I arrive in Sharm El Sheikh with no place but outside in the sun to wait for Ange. Thank goodness I have water!!! Its going to be a very long two hours, and more if her flight is delayed. I was rather amazed/scared to realize how close we were to Baghdad. (On the flight map on the plane.) I managed to find somewhere to sit indoors to wait for Ange, thank goodness!
I got harassed by a very drunk Spanish guy while waiting for Ange. Thankfully 3 Egyptian men came to my aid.....apparently he had been kicked of the plane. They were not impressed he was drunk.
Ange finally arrived and we drove (well was driven) to Dahab - about an hour north through the desert.
The hotel (Hilton Dahab) is pure bliss! We had dinner sitting outside.
Unfortunately we were woken at 4.50am for the morning prayer but did manage to go back to sleep. Breakfast we had sitting outside - it was already very hot at 8.30am!
Then we lay at the beach reading and swimming......pure bliss!!!! This definitely is the life :-) Early afternoon we headed into the city of Dahab (not exactly large) for lunch and chilling reading on the beach while the sun was setting. Just a great way to spend a day. Across the sea we could see Saudi Arabia......
Did some glancing in some shops, any that hassled us we didn't go into.
Dinner we had sitting outside next to a fire, it wasn't exactly cold but windy. We had a whole fish which was nicely decorated (in tin foil) with the two flowers of Egypt - Papyrus and Lotus.
We starting talking to our waiters (one 20 the other 23) and after awhile they said 'would you like to make friends with us in Dahab?'. Of course Ange and I are in fits of laughter, given she is married we will not be making 'friends' with them.
As they were clearing the table we got 'would you like to make friendly here in Dahab'. We didn't reply to that!
Leaving the restaurant a man said to us 'excuse me you have dropped something'. Ange and I turned around straight away and see nothing. His responds 'it was my heart'. What a pick up line!
Friday we headed out to Blue Hole where you can dive and snorkel. Was a bit of a hair raising drive there....no roads....but beautiful when we arrived. We snorkeled then lay in the sun, snorkeled again and lay in the sun. Camels would go by every now and again. The fish were amazing - such vibrant colors. Mainly small fish. It definitely confirmed my want to learn to dive.
We had a personal tour (by our waiter) up the mountain, wearing our jandels! Which wasn't easy. The view was amazing though and we have arranged to meet our guide Saturday night in Dahab......whether we will turn up is another story.
Back to the hotel as the sun was setting for a much needed shower. There is dust for Africa here!!! We napped a bit before our climb up Mt Sinai.
We had dinner sitting on the beach front in Dahab listening to the waves and Egyptian music. It was someone's birthday so the celebrations got quite loud when the cake came out.
At 10.30pm we were picked up to climb Mt Sinai. Its around a 2 hour drive from Dahab. We started the climb, about 2 1/2 hour walk uphill, in the dark I might add around 2.30am! We had a guide although his English was not great and he had no light. He does this climb 6 days a week. Unfortunately Ange wasn't well so only came half an hour with us. (Apart from being sick she had a great experience with the locals.) We had to share the track with lots of camels and I felt like every 5 seconds we were asked 'camel camel'. It got rather frustrating after awhile. We got to the top around 5am and didn't have to wait too long for the sun to rise - it was amazing being on top of Mt Sinai watching the sun rise. (Of course I have lots of photos.) It was rather cold and I'd lost feeling in my feet. Just to given you an idea I had on leggings, long johns then tracksuit pants with two pairs of socks. Most people had hired blankets as they were ill prepared.
Back down to the bottom to find Ange - the walk down was much quicker and of course we were able to see where we were going.
I had a quick visit into St Katherine's Monastery (its considered one of the oldest continually functioning monastic communicates in the world) before locating Ange. She had spent the night in one of the shops so took me to meet the owner. We were given delicious mint tea.....then I was fortunate enough to be given a marriage proposal. I turned him down as he didn't want to live outside of Egypt and cause I'd have to work in the same shop as him everyday. I told him I would go crazy spending that much time with him everyday. He took it ok :-)
We returned to the hotel around midday and spent some time at the beach then took a nap. I can't believe we are leaving tomorrow :-(
Ange's cell phone number has been passed around the 'desert telegraph' (from her night with the locals) and the texts have started :-)
Dinner we had in Dahab city center by the sea chilling out and reading. Its so peaceful being at the beach.
We decided to go and meet our waiter from yesterday just to say hi. He had dressed himself up in a Californian Sun-Maid Raisin red sweatshirt and a tea towel on his head :-) 'I give you my email address and maybe we can make a friendship'.
You maybe aware that Dahab was hit with 3 bombs in April this year. We saw where they all went off, very scary!!!!!!!
We spent our last morning at the beach swimming and reading. The water is so clear with quite a few fish. We went into the town for lunch and more swimming. Hard to believe we will be both back to suits and winter tomorrow :-(
We were picked up at 3pm to go to the airport. We both feel like the airport (Sharm El Sheikh) is the worse we have ever been in. Our hand luggage was searched extremely thoroughly, like I've never experience before. Everyone is smoking and there are hardly any seats. Most unpleasant! There was one duty free store and Ange and I thought these people hadn't seen alcohol before as they were shopping like crazy. Next time we will be arriving with enough time to check in and run through immigration!!
We arrived in London slightly later than we were suppose too. No problems getting through immigration although the man that checked my passport was amazed I won my green card in the lottery and started to inform me what he thought of that.
Aaron (Ange's husband) picked us up from the airport which was great as we were both pretty had it from the flight. We had the worse seats on the plane - back row next to the bathrooms. I had the pleasure of being knocked every time someone went to the bathroom and at all times of the flight there was a line of around 5 people. Ange and I have never seen anything like it, and I certainly hope never to experience this again.
Now its back to reality and of course winter! I will definitely be trying to return to Egypt next year.
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