Guilin, China - July 25-27 2008

My Friday night started like what seems to be the norm for me, sitting in the Cathay Pacific lounge in HK airport with a drink.  I must admit it's getting a little bit tedious :)

Was more than happy sitting relaxing then low and behold I checked the board (for at least the 7th time) and saw my flight saying 'final call', far out I was out of the lounge in lightening speed!!!  Thankfully the plane was waiting for 1 more person.  I realised at take off the flight had been brought forward 10 minutes but there hadn't been an annoucement.  Ooh well I'm on the plane and that's all that matters.  So a good start to my trip when the plane left ear

About 15 minutes to arrival we were asked to hand back all newspapers, Guilin doesn't allow newspapers to be taken off the plane. Where on earth am I going too???? And what have I got myself into.

After a super quick flight, around 1 hour we had arrived. Certainly a skip, hop and a jump away from HK which is nice. Had no issues getting through customs and as I'd done carry on didn't have to wait for the bags, was concerned though on what would happen when I left to get a taxi. I definitely didn't want a repeat of what happened in Xian. Ask a security type person and had someone interrupt me, he was a driver for the hotel where I was staying so was fantastic in giving me the info I needed (where I get money out and how I get a taxi).

Met Paul (an American) when I was getting money out and we shared a taxi as we were both staying at the same hotel. On check-in I was advised I had been upgraded to deluxe king room :) (they seemed rather apologetic about it) time will tell what it is like. After changing check-in staff I was told the details again then given my Starwood points balance and told that I have fruit in my room. Just hurry up and give me my key! And breakfast for free, because something (couldn't understand) isn't working. Lovely! Got into my room and I'm like a kid in a candy store - welcome note, fruit, cookies and chocolate, river views (although its dark), large bathroom with separate shower and bath. I know my reservation is for 2 nights but maybe I'll stay for awhile. Right off to meet Paul for a drink.

We wandered around the small town - lots of people and at 10pm was still hot and humid. Found a German type bar and chilled while listening to a Chinese singer (live). The wait staff were dressed in typical German/Austrian clothes which was a little amusing given we are in China.

Saturday morning started nice and early as we (Paul decided to tag along) were being picked up by a guide at 8am to head to Yangshuo by boat along the Li River. By the time we collected everyone we got on the boat at 9.30am - it was hot hot hot! The scenery was just amazing (reminded me a little of NZ), thankfully it was a long trip (around 4 hours) which I snap snapped snapped away. Just hope the photos do it justice. For those of you that have seen a 20 Yuen note we saw the sight on one side of the note. Amazing! For those of you that haven't seen the note I recommend you go check it out or view my photos, it will make you want to come here!

During the river cruise we saw a lot of different things - many groups of ducks, water buffalos, people swimming in the river (no thank you!), locals hanging out on their bamboo rafts as well as bamboo rafts for the tourists, workers collecting bricks and delivering watermelons. I was fortunate enough to see two youngish guys, on a bamboo raft, tie up to our boat and try to make some money selling what they think tourists like. Was rather amazing seeing them cruising down the river one minute then the next try to attach themselves to our boat without falling of the raft.

We were met in Yangshuo by our guide Jessie, first stop was buying hats then planning our day. We hired scooters (so much fun!), and drove both on roads and off country. The scenery was just fantastic! Saw a water buffalo hanging out so of course had to stop for a photo. Came across both locals and tourists on push and motor bikes, scooters and cars. At one of our many photo stops Jessie informed us it was a rice field. Quite cool to see it so close. We continued on and were about to stop for our bamboo ride when we noticed a pool/area of water right on the road side with 5 buffalos in it. Of course a u-turn was done and photos taken.

We have a 40 minute bamboo raft ride down one of the major rivers which was beautiful and clean, you could actually see the bottom. It was lovely and peaceful cruising down the river. Had fun going over a couple of rapids, for one we had to physically get out so our driver could manoeuvre the raft to the next part of the river. Shortly after taking off we came across a floating kitchen, if you fancied anything you could have the raft tie up against it. We did have a stop and neither of us knew what was going on, our driver didn't understand English and we couldn't speak Chinese so it was a little tricky. Paul got off and was immediately pounced on by a couple of very old ladies who tried to get us to buy things. There were at least 3 rafts taking photos and should you want to buy the photo get the driver to tie up to their raft. We saw a few people swimming and would have loved to have joined them given it was crazy hot.

Jessie met us at the end of the bamboo ride with our scooters. Think she got 2 of the locals to drive them. Was great to see them (the scooters!) again and we were off. Stopped at Moon Hill, which you can hike but with the crazy heat and lack of time we didn't. Maybe next time. Left our scooters there (Jessie needed more power, and we wouldn't have made it there and all the way back to Yangshuo as they only last 60kms) and was driven to the Silver Cave, a limestone cave. I cannot tell you how wonderful it was to be inside and at least 13 degrees cooler! Pure heaven! The cave was cool, in more ways than one :) but unfortunately there was only guides in Chinese so we went through alone, well with half of China as well! After a while the coolness disappeared and it was hot. Took around 45 minutes and we were well and truly ready to leave.

Back into the car to collect the scooters and we were on the homewood stretch :( Was awesome to be cruising (top speed 30kms per hour) down the main road. It seems like everyone else was on the homewood stretch too as the roads were busy. Was minding my own business riding when all of a sudden a buffalo ran out in front of me, I decided it was better for me to break than get my camera out and potentially end up in hospital! The traffic going in the opposite direction had to move quickly so they wouldn't hit it. He had clearly missed the cross over with his owner and fellow buffalos as I noticed them happily walking to what I assumed was home.

We continued along taking in the scenery. Finally hit the outskirts of town and the fun began. You needed eyes in the back of your head as well as the side! The first intersection we came to I was literally beside myself, it was like the Arc de Triomphe with traffic coming in all directions and it different speeds and sizes! Not fun for a kiwi on a scooter for the first time and no helmet. Anyway I made it through, ye ha! But then had people crossing the road whenever they like into the mix, my horn was used a lot along with my break.

Jessie informed us that the country people are crazy poor and earn around 1000 Yuen (I think USD300) a year. Mind blowing when you think about it. They do grow their own veges and typically have 1-2 animals a year that they feed etc then sell for around 700 Yuen. Certainly a very different life that all of us lead.

We gave back our scooters reluctantly and within a few minutes were collected for the Impression Liu Sanjie show. This show is on twice every evening during the high season (not entirely sure what months that is) and has 600 people wearing traditional Zhuang, Miao and Yao dress performing. What an experience this was. Very hard to put into words what it was like other than absolutely amazing and totally worth the money.

After the show we were dropped back into the city of Yangshuo and met up with 2 guys we had met on the river cruise at a bar for a couple of hours for drinks and yummy pizza (yes I know pizza in China is crazy but we were pretty hungry and it was fast and eatable.) What an amazing day we had! Super action packed. I was absolutely exhausted when we finally got into the taxi around 12.15pm and was hanging out for a shower! Today was definitely one of the best days I've ever had while on holiday. Guilin is around 1 hour drive from Yangshuo so it was after 1am when we made it back to the hotel.

Sunday didn't start anywhere near as early as Saturday which was nice. Was still very hard to drag myself out of bed and check out! We met our driver from last night at 10am, so not too early. It was super hot already so we are set for another hot day. Thankfully I have my sunscreen.

First stop was Elephant Trunk Hill, the shape of the hill is like an elephant drinking water from the river hence the name. It was crazy hot, and after walking up 50 odd steep stairs we were both dripping and wanting/needing another shower.

We couldn't wait to get into the taxi with some a/c. Drove for about an hour, views good but not like yesterday before stopping for petrol. 6.14 yuen for 1 litre, so under 1USD for a litre. I decided to use the bathroom (by far the worse I've ever used......no doors, smell unbearable and you could see the bottom. Won't elaborate further) while our driver filled the car with petrol. Then we were off again to the Rice Fields. After a long and windy road we arrived at the base, purchased our tickets and we were off again up windy hills. The views were quite amazing but nothing on yesterday. When we finally arrived we were hit with the intense heat, I had hoped it would have been slightly cooler but no. We wandered around (actually up!) towards the rice fields. Along the way walked through tiny villages. Visited the first two look out points and decided o keep going and what a great idea this was! First of all there was next to no one on this part of the track, the views were much better (really hope my photos do it justice) and we came across the ladies with the long hair. I know that sounds silly but really the ladies have super long hair! We were told yesterday that they cut their hair once in their life (around the age of 18), so you could imagine how long it is. Not my idea of fun as I struggle sometimes with my length. They have 3 styles when up to show the three stages of life - single, married and married with a child.

After 3 hours walking in the sun we had had enough. We were collected by our driver at 5pm and after 1.5 hours of full speed ahead driving arrived at the airport. There was no need for a/c in the car when you are driving fast and all the windows are down! Definitely no need to arrive early as the check-in counters didn't open to just after 7pm and out flight was basically 2 hours delayed. A word of warning for anyone travelling to Guilin, the airport is DEAD BORING so no need to arrive too early for your flight. There is nothing and I repeat nothing to do here.

Finally arrived back in Hong Kong and managed to take the last train in the direction of my house.

Hope this finds everyone well and happy and either keeping warm (please send over some cool weather!) or keeping cool.

PS One trip I have booked is to Singapore in mid September to meet up with Sarah who will be there from London for work.  I do hope to have a trip before then though.....no time for the grass to grow here thanks very much!