Japan - first stop Tokyo then Hiroshima and Kyoto.
For some strange reason I'm taking an overnight flight (am sure there will be more about this later) to Tokyo, so because I have time I am on a packed MRT to the airport and am cooking! First time I've worn boots in probably two years. It's so hard to imagine the cold I'm going to be stepping into in a few short hours when it's 30+ here along with what feels like a million percent humidity. It will be a pleasant change.
Checking in is nice and easy and within minutes I'm walking through immigration with Matt Harris seconds in front of me - talk about timing. We have a beer then separate, he's off to Chiang Mai for the weekend.
I have about an hour to kill in the lounge before heading to the gate. In the normal Japanese politeness there is an orderly line to get onto the plane. SO different to Hong Kong and Singapore it’s scary.
I have a good flight and manage to get a few hours shut-eye. When we land for the first time ever I'm in no rush to get off the plane. Now I know this is more than you all want to hear but.....going to the bathroom is an experience in itself (photos to come). No longer just one button to push - the options are endless.
I'm surprised with how quickly my bag makes it out, again given I'm in no rush it's typically it comes out early!!
The only line in encounter is a very long one at currency exchange - just don't run out of morning please.
I'm now all set to face Tokyo. After being helped by a couple to buy a train ticket I'm off. Am surprised and very happy with the assistance.
At one station we stop at I'm super impressed with the orderly lines to board the train! The rest of the world has a thing or two to learn. On opening the doors I get my first whiff of the cold. Something I have not felt in a very long time. Tokyo is not its normal blue sky, instead this morning grey and drizzling.
The number of business men on the train at 7am is scary for a Saturday morning.
I finally make it to the hotel just after 8am, with 3 people helping me along the way. The friendliness of people has blown me over already and I've only been in the country for 1.5 hours.
Unfortunately check-in is not for another 6 hours so I need a plan of attack. After warming up I head off in the direction on Shinjuku main train station with the aim to have many stops along the way. A great plan I thought that is until I notice shops don't open to 10am - a good hour to kill wondering around with the drizzle. After stopping for coffee and an egg sandwich (I could be back in Italy) I find Isetan a Japanese Department store. Decide to wait there 15 minutes before it opens and boy I'm pleased I did as I got to experience the opening of a store. We had two ladies bow at us from the inside then repeat the same after walking through the doors. They then make announcement (in Japanese) quickly followed by one in English - I'm super impressed. Finally we are let in - I'm not disappointed but realize this is window shopping only for me. I could have gone a little crazy in the shoe section. To save my wallet I head to the food hall - wow wow wow. All I have to say is you all must get on a plane right now to see it for yourself. Everything is absolutely perfect - from the handmade chocolate, to the bento boxes, to the fresh fruit (outrageous prices!!), to the endless little stores of freshly made food (salads, tempura, sushi, rice balls etc etc etc). You could spend a week here just trying everything out. I finally drag myself away, coffee is needed.
I enjoy wondering the streets taking it all in - one thing I've noticed is how unfashionable I am. The majority of the ladies are wearing short shorts with thick tights and boots. I could definitely do with the thick tights.
There are vending machines everywhere, a few even have a TV you can watch while ordering.
I meet up with Lee late morning, great to see him again and talk about perfect timing being in Japan at the same time. We explore the streets together, stopping at a small traditional place for lunch - Yakitori. Nice to have a break away from the rain. We head towards what we think is Shibuya for awhile before deciding to take the subway, where we proceed to walk for miles just to get on. Talk about getting your exercise! We are at the second to largest train station in the world, I'm very surprised it’s not the largest.
We visit the famous Hachiko Statue then enjoy the crowds at I'm sure the largest intersections in the world - Shibuya Crossing. While it’s great to be part of this it’s even better to be up looking down. You could spend hours sitting watching the millions of people go by.
Unfortunately sitting down has made me tired so we say our goodbyes and I begin the long walk to my subway line. Finally back to the hotel, check in and have a little nap. Lee and I are going out tonight with a friends Japanese host sister and her friends. An amazing experience which I’m very excited for.
I find it rather funny I'm having someone from guest services come to help me with getting the heater working - complete opposite to Singapore!!
Lee comes to my hotel to meet me before we head out for dinner - Fumei had so kindly rang the front desk to give them all the directions so within minutes a taxi arrives and we are off. Fumei greets the taxi and we are quickly whisked inside a nameless restaurant. We would never have found this on our own!!
The meal was absolutely amazing – which just kept coming out. As the menu was all in Japanese there was no chance for Lee and I to order We did have fun though pointing at things as a suggestion. We were fortunate to try 4 different types of sake, all delicious. High level we ate Japanese tofu, sashimi, salad, mackerel, tempura, tomatoes, cheese and crackers, stir-fry noodles, roasted chicken le and dim sum. One point to note on the tempura – it was a mixed plate with one of the items being…..wait for it…..lamb testicles.
Sunday morning after waking early I realise I have a small headache from all that wonderful sake I had last night :) so off to the gym I head to run it off. I have a very quiet morning then head out for coffee in a local place that the owners have had for 33 years. Again I could be in Italy with how the coffee is made.
Ange and Aaron arrived dead on 12 noon and like me yesterday are not allowed to check in to our room until 2pm.
We walked to Harajuku and was disappointed to not see any "freaks" who only make an appearance on Sunday's. After hunting around for somewhere to eat for ages we located a place on the opposite side of the road to us. Most other places in the world this would be fixed by walking directly across the road, but this is Japan. I noticed a few people doing exactly this so off we went - nice and easy!
We headed off to Meiji-jingu which is a shrine in a huge park and met up with Nigel, Zoe and their two boys. Nigel and Ange work together in London-town. Before walking into the park we spotted three freaks - and boy oh boy freaks they are.
After experiencing the formal wedding photos of a Japanese couple we headed out of the park and straight into a handful of more freaks. It's fascinating just watching them and wandering why they dress like they do. (Photos online)
Walking back to the hotel we came across a group of around 15 teenage girls who I believe were all dressed up, however it could have been their normal clothes given the fashion here in Japan. Lots of multi-coloured outfits mixed with every pattern imaginable.
After resting our legs we were off again, this time closer to home - Shinjuku to experience the nightlife. First stop was a great wine bar, apart from it being full of Japanese and all in Japanese it could have been anywhere in the Western world. Having Ange speak in Japanese is just fantastic!!
We were now ready to tackle “Piss Alley” which is two rows of small places behind the railway station. Great fun and I’m sure we were the show for the evening!
We headed to a place opposite where we had the wine, only this time it was stand up only no seats. I am still amazed at how many people are out and about for a Sunday night! I enjoyed the people watching and after a couple more drinks ended up speaking to 4 guys who were next to us. When we first walked in they all looked a little scary but it turned out aok.
Walking back to the hotel I thought I was in Antarctica :) the wind was piecing cold!!!
Monday morning Ange and Aaron woke up early due to jet lag but thankfully managed to go back to sleep. After getting home at 12.30am it was nice to be able to get some sleep.
After breakfast in a local place we walked to the Park Hyatt where Nigel and co are staying \ Amazing view from the lobby, you can see for miles and miles.
Walking to Shinjuku station we went through a park where thankfully there were a couple of cherry blossoms in bloom. I can just imagine what it would be like when the whole park is out. It's little surprise why the cherry blossom season is so big here and such a shame the weather has been so cold recently.
I had been recommended a traditional Japanese restaurant 50 minutes by train out of Tokyo so off we all headed. Having a Japanese speaker (Ange) with you makes a huge difference, although I will say there are more English signs around this time than nearly 4 years ago. I know I'll notice a difference tomorrow when I head off on my own.
Lunch was set in some beautiful manicured gardens surrounded by pools with very large goldfish.
We had a private room overlooking the gardens. Thankfully there was a place under the table for your legs so no sore legs this time!!!
Lunch took over two hours with each course being presented like a special ceremony. Certainly entertaining. For the main course Ange, Aaron and I choose wagyu beef and boy I wasn't disappointed, melt in your mouth. We had a special chef cook this for us which I was pleased about - he of course has lots of practice.
Returning by train back into Shinjuku was interesting as it was around 5pm, much busier than going out there! No spare seats with people standing.
After chilling out, more like keeping warm we went in search for an ATM machine. There were SO many around but next to none took foreigner cards. Note for other people to go to the post office.
We had dinner in a small restaurant that does at least 15 different type of Gyoza. After which we took the train to Shibuya in search of Love Hill hotel - finally got here. Not as impressive as I'd thought / had been told about it.
Tuesday morning we were all up early, I felt like I didn't sleep at all. I had two of Tokyo's train station going through my mind and wondering how I was going to get on in a few hours when I head to Hiroshima. Due to jet lag Ange and Aaron woke early as well; we had planned to visit the famous Tsukiji fish market so off we went. On route I dropped my bags off in a locker, didn't fancy dragging them through the fish market and I'm sure the workers wouldn't have appreciated it either!!
One thing that amazed me was how light it was at 5am, if you didn’t know the time you could have been mistaken for thinking it was the middle of the day.
Once at the fish market we wonder through all the stalls. One of the workers/owners allowed Aaron to hold this huge knife which he was using to cut an extra-large piece of fish.
After a while we were escorted out as we were in the "no go" area. Ange and I did manage to take a quick photo of the VERY large tuna but were then immediately told off for using the flash. Whoops. In the end we were escorted out by two workers, they obviously didn't believe we would leave on our own!
Met up with Nigel and family, they too had managed to walk around before being escorted out. After looking at a few market stalls Ange, Aaron and I headed back to Tokyo station. Collected my bags before exchanging my Japan Rail (JR) voucher - Hiroshima here I come.
I've had a wonderful time again in Tokyo and can totally see why some people return here all the time. It is an absolutely fascinating city with so much to see/do/eat/drink. I certainly do hope one day to return.
Sayonara for now.
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