We pull into Da Nang (on the 11 December 2010) a good 20 minutes late, didn't surprise me given we stopped along the way for who knows what! But I was pleased the two + hours were up as the a/c had stopped working and boy it was getting warm.
After having my ticket checked I was let out of the train station and found my driver straight away. The hotel I'm staying at has free pick up which certainly saves me the hassle of trying to work out how to get to the hotel.
After dropping my bags in my room and changing (it's finally starting to get warm) I have coffee in the hotel. The rate it's dripping I might not be drinking it until tomorrow though :)
Da Nang has a much busier feel to it than Hue, a constant noise of motorbikes and people. I've been told by a few people not to come here although from looking at things on the drive to the hotel I'm really not sure why.
I have broken one of my travel rules already and I'm only 5 days in - after moving around so much in Europe I wanted my minimum night stay to be at least 3 nights....I'm here for only 2 nights. Ooh well.
I had read about a cafe that employs deaf people so head out to find it for a late lunch. I try, where possible, to eat in places that employ disadvantage children. My way of helping the community. I get speaking to the waitress, Thu who says she will take me out tonight on her motorbike. I’m very excited but also a little apprehensive….she doesn’t look like a mass murderer but you just never know. Only time will tell.
After walking along the river front, and being spoken to by so many motorbike people (they want to take me on a tour) I come across the Han Market. I think I'm the only white person in the area as I've gone from doing the staring to being the one stared at. After awhile the smells get to me and I have to make a hasty exit otherwise I might be adding to the mess that is already on the floor.
I come across the Da Nang Cathedral, which is a candy pink colour – definitely not my choice. The inside is a “normal” Cathedral standard. I am surprised there are lines of people waiting to give confession, something I have never seen before. From where I’m sitting I notice one of the Priests checking his watch, obviously he has somewhere else to be or is counting down to its his turn for a break.
After chilling in the hotel for an hour the waitress from the cafe I was in for lunch came to collect me - Thu is 22 years old and has been living in Da Nang for 2 months. She studied English while at uni in Nha Trang.
I learnt my lesson from yesterday so change out of my skirt before she arrives. Within minutes of her arriving we are in the mist of "heavy" traffic. The first few minutes are a little scary but then I get use to it. In some ways I'm surprised there are so many motorbike accidents in Vietnam as people seem to be very courteous, it's like organised chaos. We have a couple of stops, which allows me to rest my behind and get my camera out. I'm amazed how many people are out and about, but it is Saturday night after all.
I get some funny looks from other riders, but smile back to them. You definitely get a different view of the organised chaos from the back of a bike.
We stop off at a local place for dinner -I'm definitely the only non-Vietnamese which is great! Means I’m guaranteed to be eating local food. There seems to be only one dish served here, and certainly no menu - brilliant! Dinner is making your own fresh Vietnamese rolls. A very social meal. There is a family sitting next to us and the little girl comes to "chat" to me in her English. She is only 7 years old, and has been learning English at school for one month, yet she is asking me lots of questions. I'm amazed!
When we get the bill I nearly fall over, the total bill is under USD 4 and I'm very full. Thu isn't pleased when I say I'll pay however given she has driven me around and paid for parking it's the least I can do. I am overwhelmed that she even offered to take me out at all!!
I decide to have a beer at a place across from the hotel. From the moment I crossed the road I was stared at, it's getting to be a bit of a pain now so I've started to stare back with a smile.
Ooh my goodness me, my waitress has just walked by and I notice her hair is super low - below her bottom. And I'm complaining mine is too long.....how on earth does she brush it let alone wash and dry it.
There is no need for an alarm when you are staying in the middle of Da Nang - I'm woken about 6am on Sunday morning......clearly Sunday's aren't a day of rest for most Vietnamese!
After breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee in the hotel I head out. With no fixed destination I wander and enjoy taking everything in. Again I'm stared at like nobody’s business.
I feel like I'm still half asleep so stop at a "cafe" on the side of the street. The other customers can't stop staring at me. A few minutes later I’m given a super strength iced coffee - one that would put hairs on your chest. I'm definitely awake and kicking now.
After wandering the streets for a while I head back to the hotel to get out of the heat, things certainly slow down during the middle of the day. Why can't this happen at the crack of dawn!!
Early evening I head out for food, I'm after anything but Vietnamese and stumble across a European bar/restaurant and order tzatziki, pathetic I know but ooh so good! This is just a stop gap before I find a restaurant for dinner - and Indian is the winner. Really good Indian too :)
Monday (13 December) I'm awake early thanks to my outside alarm. You definitely don't come to Da Nang to rest and sleep! Coffee is needed before I start the task of packing up again, I'm off to Hoi An this morning for 4 nights.
I've had a good time here, but do understand why people say not to visit - there isn't a great deal to do and I don't believe they are set up for overseas tourists quite yet (this will come) however it’s not a terrible place to spend a couple of days.
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